1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea | Page 59 | Ford Explorer Forums
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1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

Thanks for all the ideas guys!

I followed up with the door ajar chime. It sounds for all doors with engine off/ignition in run and with the engine running. So that circuit doesn't seem to be affected. Just the door ajar indicator light.

Jamie, I was having the same thought: it seems like the bsr is actually working, but for the wrong reasons. I did notice when I switched it out for a new relay, the one I pulled out was really hot. Like you don't want to touch the metal legs kind of hot.

Good thing I have another Mounty sitting next to this one. I'll try swapping the driver's door master switch and see what happens. I need to fix my interior door handle anyway.
 



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Excuse my not already knowing, but is the master driver's door switch basically hardwired into the harness in the door? I thought there was a connector I could unplug and yank out just the switch part, but unless it's hidden under the vinyl tape, it looks like I have the pull the whole door harness out.
1000003324.jpg
 






Flip the switch panel over and you will see how the harness connects to the switches
 






Ditto, on the back are screws which hold the switch assembly onto the circuit panel. There are many terminal studs that push into the panel. So remove those obvious screws, and then gently with a thin screw driver, pry the two apart. Work your way around the perimeter, separating the two at the side seam.

wiring driver door switches.JPG


Projectthread098.JPG
 






I see how the switches separate from the panel/handle piece, I was wondering if they disconnect from the rest of the harness, or if you have to take it all after disconnecting the big connector between the hinges (and the mirror, door lock, etc.).
 






Okay I figured out what you guys meant after I looked closer.

Funny thing is, with the other door switch array, I still have the issue, but it's a little different. Still no lights or windows when engine is running, but once I turn the engine off and 3 seconds pass, the relay clicks and lights come back. Hmmm...
 






Hahaha, just to confirm my observations, I switched back to the original door switches, and it's behaving the same as the other switches. That is to say, slightly different from how it behaved yesterday.

I can swap dimmer switches to see if anything changes again, but I'm getting the feeling the issue is hiding deeper than that.

Any other ideas?
 






97Sandbox said:
Okay I figured out what you guys meant after I looked closer.

Funny thing is, with the other door switch array, I still have the issue, but it's a little different. Still no lights or windows when engine is running, but once I turn the engine off and 3 seconds pass, the relay clicks and lights come back. Hmmm...
Click to expand...

That sounds like the power to the battery saver relay circuit. Somehow it's not powering the windows with the engine running, but is after it's shut off. Find that relay again and verify it's passing power through whenever the ignition is on(or on accessory).
 






It's definitely passing through with the ignition in run, but only if the engine isn't running. The relay clicks and gets warm while the interior lights are on. I even swapped the relay with a brand new one and the condition was the same.
 






You wouldn't suspect the ignition switch or associated wiring of having any sort of fault?
 






Did you test the door ajar switches for the interior light issue?
Each door lock has a switch the hatch had a switch as does the hatch glass

Gotta get that door ajar circuit sorted out too not just the power windows

Something fishy this old 97!
 






DintDobbs said:
You wouldn't suspect the ignition switch or associated wiring of having any sort of fault?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure. To me, it doesn't seem directly related to the ignition switch because the issue doesn't correlate to the position of the switch so much as it does whether the engine is running or not (everything works in run with engine off, but not with engine running). That made me wonder if there could actually be an over voltage issue and maybe the bsr is going into a protection mode or something, but my battery reads 14.4V with the engine running, so I don't think my alternator is pumping out too much juice.

410Fortune said:
Did you test the door ajar switches for the interior light issue?
Each door lock has a switch the hatch had a switch as does the hatch glass

Gotta get that door ajar circuit sorted out too not just the power windows
Click to expand...
Yes, chime works as it should for each door and hatch whether engine is running or not. It's just the door ajar indicator light in the cluster that's acting up at the same time as the interior lights and windows.
 












That's what I'm tempted to do. But I'm not sure when I'll be able to get to the salvage yard next. Pity is, I know there's a 99 V8 Mounty in there now and it'd only be $22 for the module.

I can check if the GEM in my 98 is the same, but I'm guessing not because it's a late 97 build and seems like everything is a little different.
 












I'll pull the radios out tonight and see, maybe my 98 and 99 have the same GEM.

I was trying to think of what could have caused a GEM issue. Only thing I can think is if something got messed up from my 4x4 indicator light wiring (from 4406M swap). My indicator lights are still working though, and I tend to keep my wiring OEM-level tidy. But I'll check things out more once I'm in there.
 






Looks like the '98 (made in '97) GEM is a F87B-14B205-BC
1000003353.jpg


And the '99 (made in '98) GEM is a XL2T-14B205-BB
1000003354.jpg


So they have the same main part numbers, but the family ID and revision level are different. At a glance, all the wire colors seem to match up. Good or bad idea to try the older GEM in the newer Mounty?
 












The gem changed very little in a 4 door explorer 96-2001 they all have same
Functions and wiring really
98-01 will basically be the exact same module no matter what the numbers say
 



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Sounds good. I'll try to get the 98 GEM swapped into the 99 later to and see what we've got.

Looks like just one 8mm holding it in? Unless there's another bolt hiding.
 






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