2002 Sport Trac SAS finally begins

Dana 44 out of a 1989 Grand Wagoneer.

My plan is to get as little llift as possible as I dont feel like removing my body lift. So I am using the stock Waggy knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and likely using new waggy steering parts as well and keeping it 6 lug.

I will leave it spring under as to keep the lift minimal, and use 4" lifted springs. Doing it this way will save me from buying high steer knuckles and a high steer setup. Is this best way, maybe not, but it saves me alot money and keeps my lift to around 5".

Now for those who are asking themselves why am I even bothering with this SAS. My reasons are that my Sport Trac goes through UCA and lower ball joints every other month, and I destroy tires in under 8 months. The truck just cannot handle 35's. PLus it will be way stronger than the IFS, and will flex much more than my IFS system.

If anyone has any thoughts/recomendations/concerns, I welcome all the help you can offer.

I hope money does not slow me down, but the cold weather might, either way my goal is to have this done well before Moab.

 

[sparkyXplorer]

Not sure I understand what you are asking.

price wise?

 

[chad551]

I was thinking $1700. Pretty good deal considering I have a grand in shocks alone.

 

[chad551]

Got a question in regards to my steering. Since I am planning on leaving the body lift in, what would be the best bet for a steering box? I remember reading somewhere that the Toyota IFS box mounts inside and works if you have a body lift or use an FJ60 box and mount it on the outside?

 

[IZwack]

Neg, Toyota boxes mount outboard -- both the FJ60 and the "IFS" box. Section525 used the FJ60 (i think) and I used the "IFS" box, both outboard.

Oh and I had a body lift on mine, no clearance issues, it was a straight shot to the box.

 

[RockRanger]

Ifs box = pitman arm face backwards. fj60 = pitman arm face forwards. Depends on what you need clearance for. Both boxes mount on outside of frame.

 

[chad551]

Ok another problem has arised. Superior is telling me they do not make/cannot be drilled an 8.8 axle with a 6x5.5 bolt pattern.. I thought that was recommended by everyone on here.. Anyone have any insight?

Thanks

 

[IZwack]

You can go with a blank and have that drilled to whatever pattern youd like -- try Dutchman (http://www.dutchmanms.com/).
(Isnt the logistics and planning stage so much fun? )

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I know you said you were going to go 6 lug, but your D44 can be converted to 5 on 5.5 fairly easily, using you waggy knuckles. That is what I have started, if I ever get to SAS'ing my 91.

 

[IZwack]

OH yeah I forgot to mention that sometimes the problem with redrilling is that the bolt holes overrun each other which most would be unsafe for highway driving. Like one bolt center might be half an inch offset from the other at which point you'll have two holes over overlapping (kinda like a figure eight). For an off-road rig, this probably isnt a problem.

 

[lifeguard379]

 

[chad551]

Well here is my dealeo. I can spend $400 for a 5x5.5 kit which has the rotors,hubs, spindles, and bearings. Or spend $220.00 and get stronger axles for the rear. Now the new question; is the stock 8.8 axle flange large enough to handle a 6x5.5 pattern? The guys at Dutchman said it needs to at least 6-7/16". Anyone know this info????

Also this question may be a dumb one, but oh well. Since the 5x5.5 pattern uses the smaller chevy spindle, will the axles from the 6 lug spindle still work?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

From what I understand, the axles will fit the small bearing chevy spindles.

 

[Dannyboy]

OH yeah I forgot to mention that sometimes the problem with redrilling is that the bolt holes overrun each other which most would be unsafe for highway driving. Like one bolt center might be half an inch offset from the other at which point you'll have two holes over overlapping (kinda like a figure eight). For an off-road rig, this probably isnt a problem.

I just scored a 9" shaft that was staring at me at the junkyard sitting in the bed of a pickup the other day. It's a 5x5.5 plus it has the hole for accessing the nuts holding it in place.

While staring at this I was wondering if one could weld in plugs to fill in the exisitng lug stud holes and then re-drill for the correct bolt patter.
Due to the location of the hole I cannot just space and re-drill. Since we are discusing this, I will ask it here vs. start a new thread.

As for 6 lug vs 5x5.5, I agree with Rockranger's statement. There is more wheels/tires available on craigslist, classifieds, etc with the toyotas and full size chevy 1500s (even if they are street queens) running this lug pattern.

 

[IZwack]

Unfortunately I dont think rewelding and redrilling will work cauz of the heat problem which might lead to stress areas. You could get the whole thing hot with acetylene but then you might start warping the flange unless you had good control of the heat or a furnace. Also, I think redrilling a weld will be very difficult as most filler metals are a little difficult to machine. But these are just speculations since I've never modified an axle shaft's flange ( = I are a total newb on this).

 

[RockRanger]

The stock rear axle shafts can't be redrilled for 6 on 5.5. You have to get alloy axleshafts. If I remember right that is what Spas did. Maybe you can ask her. If that doesn't work then you can convert the front to 5 on 5.5

For that here is what I am using:

Chevy flat top knuckles ( the waggy ones will work but I needed histeer)
Small bearing chevy spindles
Waggy brake calipers
Waggy backing plates
TTB f150 rotors
TTB f150 innner and outer wheel bearings and seals
Waggy inner and outer axle shafts
Waggy ball joints.
f150 TTB hubs.

That is my setup.

 

[chad551]

Well I can get the axles made but then I also need to do a rear disc conversion. Jeeeezzz it is one fricking change after another. So I guess I will just bite the bullet and buy a 5x5.5 kit I saw online for $350.00 that has everything needed.

Unless I can find a 80's F-150 in a junk yard somewhere. And then a chevy for the spindles. But I dont see that happening.

 

[RockRanger]

The spindles were a PIA to find and were expensive. I probably would have been ahead to just buy it all together.

 

[chad551]

Well it is done now. Parts should be here in a few days. I got lucky and had a coupon from Ebay for 8% off any purchase and it expires tonight at midnight, so I saved $30.00.

 

[james t]

Good deal.

Besides the possible heat issues with welding up/redrilling holes on the stock flange... have you ever ground a weld flat and tried to drill a hole through it? Good luck is all im sayin. : I dont know if they actually make a diamond tipped kryptonite drill bit, but if they do you better pick up several of them. For one hole.

 

[chad551]

ok next item up for purchase..... Anyone have some advice on the front locker?
I still like having the setup I have now where I switch on the fly into 4wd, when weather is bad, etc. So I need to be proactive and make sure that capability is still there for me, as this is still going to be my DD. So with that am I better off with L/S style front locker. Guess I will need to get some Warn hubs too.

Thanks