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mjenk430 02 Sport Trac SAS

OK, I've been snooping around here for the last month or so doing research for my SAS. Today I bought my 87 waggy axle (from "they pull" junkyard), so I thought it was time to start a build thread. Last weekend I bought a 74 waggy axle (from "you pull" junkyard) and stripped the flat-top knuckles, spindles, and outer shafts. Prepare yourself for dumb questions from me and a long build. I will post some pictures tomorrow of the two axles.

Here is my parts list so far. Please, please, please let me know if I've made any mistakes in my choices or if you see any places I could save some money. Or any major expenses I've overlooked.

I'm not going to deal with any lockers, gears, or front drive shaft until I get the truck back on the road after the swap.


Purchased To Date (5/9/11)

Junkyard
86 Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 Axle (Narrow Trac) = 262.50
Flat Top Knuckles, Outer Shafts, Spindles, & Spring Plates from 74 Wagoneer = 105.00
Steering Box, Pitman Arm, and Steering Rod from Gen 2 Explorer = 26.00
Total = 393.50

Amazon
Raybestos 66297R Rotor/Hub x2 = 197.50
Warn Premium Hubs PN 20990 = 94.52
Shipping = 0.00
Total = 292.02

Rock Auto
Spindle Bearing Kit Timken SBK1 x2 = 19.42
Wheel Bearing (Inner) Timken Set37 x2 = 18.82
Wheel Bearing (Outer) Timken Set45 x2 = 17.08
Wheel Seal Timken 4250 x2 = 6.94
Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Raybestos H5408 x4 = 2.80
Caliper, Right Raybestos FRC4064 = 22.79
Caliper, Left Raybestos FRC4063 = 22.79
Brake Pads Raybestos ATD52M = 40.79
Explorer Forum Discount = 7.57
Shipping = 38.46
Total = 182.32

Sky Manufacturing
Dana 44 Knuckle Ball Joints x2 = 98.00
Dana 44 Knuckle Machining (Keyed) = 55.00
High Steer Arm (Tall) Pass. Side (Keyed) = 99.00
High Steer Install/Stud Kit = 39.00
Dana 44 Ball Joint Tool = 12.00
Shipping = 52.41
Total = 355.41

Ebay (Seller = drivelinesource)
Spicer 5-760x U-Joint x2 = 38.00
Shipping = 9.00
Total = 47.00

BJ’s Off-Road
TT’s Fabworks: Spring Over Axle Kit = 95.00
Shipping = 21.07
Total = 116.07

Sky Manufacturing
Chevy S-10 Solid Axle Hanger Kit = 219.00
Toyota Front Shock Hoops = 69.00
Shipping = 54.60
Total = 342.60

Ballistic Fabrication
Steering Kit (Tie Rod Ends, tube adapters, and tube for tie rods) = 246.99
Shock Tabs = 3.96
Pirate 4x4 Discount = -25.10
Shipping = 63.77
Total = 289.62

Not Yet Purchased

Frontier 4x4
Trail-Gear Heavy Duty Front Leaf Springs (Pair) = 255.55
Shipping = 80.44
Total = 335.99

Adapt-It USA
Wheel Adapters (Rear) 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 Adapter = 114.50
Shipping = 0.00
Total = 114.50

Randy’s Ring & Pinion
Yukon YG D44-488 = 203.40
Yukon Open Carrier Case YC D706025 = 62.95
Install Kit ??? = ???
Yukon F8.8-488 = 265.17
Install Kit ??? = ???
Shipping = ???
Total = ???

Wheels 18x10 (5x5.5) ??? = ???

Shocks ??? = ???

Brake Lines ??? = ???

Front Drive Shaft ??? = ???


I still need to do some more research for the wheels. I need to make sure they will fit with the warn manual hubs. It is hard to find an 18x10 wheel for my 36x15.50R18 M/T MTZ's.

I have a 96 ford ranger 2wd in my backyard just sitting (past abandoned project, bagged and dropped :rolleyes:). Will the steering box, pitman arm, and steering rod out of the ranger work for my swap?

OK. Get ready for the dumb questions. I have a mechanic buddy who told me that if I went to manual hubs I might have to change something in the transfer case? What was he talking about?

Also, I read on some parts website that with the warn hubs on the waggy axle, to "use the correct spindle nut kit". Any idea what that's about?
 


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j_mazala

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I'm having the same problem with the draglink hitting the passenger side spring but there are a few things that you can do to try to fix it.

First is a spacer for the high steer arm, they sell them in 1/2" and 1" I think but then you'll need longer high steer studs and with the spacer plus Sky tall arm thats a lot of leverage on the knuckle/studs/balljoints and you run a higher risk or parts breaking or wearing out faster.

Then you have the option of kicking the castor angle up a few degrees to effectivly bring the draglink higher above the spring. Downside of this is too much castor angle can cause adverse handeling characteristics.

What I've chosen to do which I havent actually done yet is to run an even flatter pitman arm. Right now I have an arm off a Wagoneer that is 6.75" hole to hole with a .75" drop or so. I grabbed an arm off an 80 2wd F150 Custom about a month ago that is 5.75" long that actually has a .25" rise to it. Im hoping this will be enough to get the link off the spring under flex. Downside here is bumpsteer from not having the draglink flat, but I guess I'll see how bad it is when I get it put on. Need to ream out the hole for the Chevy TRE first.

This problem mainly stems from the spring not being level from front to back. The real way to fix would be to either lower the front mount which aint gonna happen because then it would just be a rock anchor and kill the approach angle or have the shackle go through the frame like most of the toyota guys do or get a set of shackle sliders from DIY4x4 or Liquid Iron Industries which would bring up the rear spring eye a bit. But all my junks fully welded in so I'm hoping a workaround with the pitman arm will work for my needs. Good luck gettin it all dialed in and ditch the body lift!
 


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mjenk430

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I'm having the same problem with the draglink hitting the passenger side spring but there are a few things that you can do to try to fix it.

Thanks for all the great info!!

I haven't checked to see what my caster angle turned out to be yet. I was going to use shims if need be to correct it. I guess I'll start there. See if it needs to be rotated and if I am real lucky correcting it will help fix my draglink problem.

If that doesn't help I guess the next step will be for me to find a flatter pitman arm and ream it out. I bought a 3-1/2" dropped one from Parts Mike that was already reamed out. It was only $20 more than just buying the reamer. Looks like I'm going to end up having to buy the reamer anyways.

I don't want to use spacers on the steering arm, especially since I got Sky Manufacturing to cut a "key-way" in my knuckle and I am using one of there keyed arms. Don't know how that would work with spacers.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Might wanna look into using Hyme joints instead of tierod ends for better angle options and just have a stud bolted to the arms. In the air ride/ lowrider and extreme offroad groups these setups are really helpful with strength and angle needed for the suspension travel.
 




mjenk430

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I did my SOA on the rear today and swapped the stock rear springs back in. With the warrior shackles in the rear, the SOA, and the stock spings it sits pretty level now.




I know there is the mystical explorer/ranger lean to the driver's side, but this is a little much. I can't figure out what the hell is going on. 2" of difference left to right!!!! Any ideas???




Got the power steering lines hooked up. I was dreading working on it because I thought I was going to have to get a pressure hose made, but I was able to use the pressure line that I took with the junkyard ranger steering box. Used some 3/8" hose to extend the return side and incorporated the cooler from the rack and pinion like Chad did. It was actually pretty simple and only took me about an hour to get everything plumbed up.

I checked my caster angle and it's at 8* Is that exceptable? I still need to get a flatter pitman arm to try and get some clearance between the draglink and springs.

Next step: extended front brake hoses. Anyone got any ideas where to source these? I'm using the calipers for a late 80's grand wagoneer.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Most offroad places or sites should sell the extended steel braided brake hoses.

As for the Ranger lean you have the gas tank, battery and most other heavy components on the driverside of the vehicle, that's why they lean plus the drivers side is the only side that always has weight from someone being in the vehicle.

I think Chad had to play around with different leafspring rates and number of leaf pack setups to get his lean issue solved.
 




j_mazala

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Ditch the body lift

For the lean I took out the bottom leaf from the passenger front spring. That plus the shocks and a swaybar in the front its sitting fairly level.

Brake lines in the front I used rubber hoses from an 85 Chevy G20 van. Theyre 23" long and more than enough for me when flexed out.

8 Degrees on the castor is on the high side of acceptable. From what ive read most shoot for between 4-8. I think I'm at 5 but havent messed with it at all so I cant really comment on the effects that it has.

Good lookin progress.
 




mjenk430

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j_mazala said:
Ditch the body lift

For the lean I took out the bottom leaf from the passenger front spring. That plus the shocks and a swaybar in the front its sitting fairly level.

Brake lines in the front I used rubber hoses from an 85 Chevy G20 van. Theyre 23" long and more than enough for me when flexed out.

8 Degrees on the castor is on the high side of acceptable. From what ive read most shoot for between 4-8. I think I'm at 5 but havent messed with it at all so I cant really comment on the effects that it has.

Good lookin progress.

Did those chevy van brake hoses bolt right up to the wagoneer calipers with no modifications?
 








mjenk430

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j_mazala said:
I'm running Chevy 3/4 ton calipers but they should fit on fine as long as its a 3/8 or 10mm banjo and not the 7/16.

I was gonna get these before I found the Chevy G20s for $5 a piece on closeout at Rockauto

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Suspension-10mm-Banjo-X-3-8-24-Female-DOT-Approved-Brake-Line-p-1525.html

Just placed order on rock auto for the G20 brake lines. They looked like they should work with the saggy calipers. For $5.13 a piece, I'll take my chances.

Also ordered the snapon reamer. Hope to go pitman arm hunting at the junkyard on Friday.
 




chad551

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I forgot about this thread and have not read it since page 1. Plus I have not been on the site much. I can check on the height of my vehicle. The top of my roof is 7'-2" I think. It also looks like your SAS kit from SKY makes the entire suspension taller than mine. I built low so I did not have to remove my body lift, as I like the BL as it makes things easier to work on. And it helps to get a 35" tire under the bed where the stock spare was. I am working on my rear shock mounts now andI am halfway done with that mod. i will post pics of that project up shortly.


I have also removed the trackbar on my truck as well. Still drives like it did with it installed, and I can still do a cloverleaf/exit ramp at 80mph if needed.

I have stock Grand waggy leafs in mine with an extra leaf on drivers side as well as a 1/4" block welded on the leaf pad. Now my truck sits level. My brake lines were made at a carquest store that had the tools to make braided brake lines. I think mine are about 24" long, probably longer then needed but I always look ahead and the linked setup was in the back of my mind.

I dont think my caster is at 8* degrees either, but again not to sure. My driveshaft is my superlift shaft modified with a 12" slip joint.

My pitman arm is also a flat arm I got from an F250. I also changd my draglink and sterring setup as well. I had the same binding you had on the pass side. So now my draglink is in the stock location and the steering is on the high steer arm.

If you have more questions shoot me a PM.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Updates, updates, updates LOL ???? Have any progress or newer pictures?
 




Clusterpup

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Yeah, now I'm hooked on this thread also and need updates. :popcorn:
 




MidnightRebel07

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:popcorn::scratch::scratch::bounce::wavey::wavey:
 




mjenk430

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Sorry guys, it's been a few weeks since I've worked on or really even thought about the truck. I'm trying to save up money for wheels and tires. What do you guys think about 20"x12" with 38x15.50 open country or mud grapplers?
 




MidnightRebel07

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Your'e gonna need 5.13 gears for those size tires to even have a chance unless you're doing a V8 swap, even then you'll need atleast 5.13 gears to turn those tires.

You're not gonna have any room for articulation especially if you turn the wheels.
JMHO
 




93ranger4x4

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i dont post here often and havent in a long time. but i felt i needed to. first off, nice build. everything is clean and looks well done. looks professional and i like it.

2nd, your steering issue.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57069461@N08/5857348264/

in this photo u can see on the bottom of your leaf pack u have 2 extra leaves. the very tiny one on the very bottom and the overload. neither of those u need. ditch em and youll probably have the clearance u need or close to it.

3rd, your wheel tire combo. :thumbdwn:
why such big wheels? unless your building this thing to jump curbs at the grociery store...

dont waste your time or money on nittos PLEASE. 35x12.5 BFG KM2 can be gotten for less than 300 a tire. 38s are high dollar.
http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/bfgoodrich-terrain-35x125-p-6198.html

im a Pitbull Rocker guy myself but idk how agressive u want. if u really want 38s how about a Pitbull maddog.
http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/pitbull-maddog-radial-tire-385x1350-r18lt-p-10033.html

if it were me, id go with a 37X12.5R17 Rocker.
http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/pitbull-rocker-radial-tire-37x125-p-11456.html

just my 2 cents. again nice build. waiting for some action shots

Ian
 




Revenant

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The biggest tire you can fit at static ride height is not the tire you should buy. The biggest tire you can fit at full compression (stuffed into the wheel well) is the tire size you need.

If you can, borrow a friend's 35s and see how those fit, my guess is you'll just barely stuff them when you're all flexed out. If you can fit those at full compression no problem, then go for bigger. Just guessing, I recommend 35s.

I second the BFG KM2 recommendations. It is a long lasting performer, well engineered, that doesn't cost as much as it could, and won't kill you on the highway.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Check out Chads again for the articulation shots and how his tires fill in the wheel wells at flex, pretty much same setup for the most part. Just a suggestion. I wouldn't go any taller the a 36" myself.
 




DB_1

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The biggest tire you can fit at static ride height is not the tire you should buy. The biggest tire you can fit at full compression (stuffed into the wheel well) is the tire size you need.

I would agree to that to a point but there's a few variables involved.

Not everyone's ride height is the same and not everyone is running the same width axle. I'm at my limit with 37's and a narrow axle since my tires rub my coils at full stuff even with cutting the fenders as well as inner fenders.

Someone with the same set-up but with leaf springs will run into problems with steering turn radius...or lack therof...way before they run out of room to stuff a tire.

If you do go bigger than 37's, you better start thinking about moving the axle forward or else you'll get into the firewall.
 


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Revenant

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I would agree to that to a point but there's a few variables involved.

Not everyone's ride height is the same and not everyone is running the same width axle. I'm at my limit with 37's and a narrow axle since my tires rub my coils at full stuff even with cutting the fenders as well as inner fenders.

Someone with the same set-up but with leaf springs will run into problems with steering turn radius...or lack therof...way before they run out of room to stuff a tire.

Agreed. There are a ton of variables. What you can fit, at full compression, turning lock to lock. Trim as much as you can until you run into hardpoints (springs, links, heater boxes, whatever).
 




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