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mjenk430 02 Sport Trac SAS

OK, I've been snooping around here for the last month or so doing research for my SAS. Today I bought my 87 waggy axle (from "they pull" junkyard), so I thought it was time to start a build thread. Last weekend I bought a 74 waggy axle (from "you pull" junkyard) and stripped the flat-top knuckles, spindles, and outer shafts. Prepare yourself for dumb questions from me and a long build. I will post some pictures tomorrow of the two axles.

Here is my parts list so far. Please, please, please let me know if I've made any mistakes in my choices or if you see any places I could save some money. Or any major expenses I've overlooked.

I'm not going to deal with any lockers, gears, or front drive shaft until I get the truck back on the road after the swap.


Purchased To Date (5/9/11)

Junkyard
86 Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 Axle (Narrow Trac) = 262.50
Flat Top Knuckles, Outer Shafts, Spindles, & Spring Plates from 74 Wagoneer = 105.00
Steering Box, Pitman Arm, and Steering Rod from Gen 2 Explorer = 26.00
Total = 393.50

Amazon
Raybestos 66297R Rotor/Hub x2 = 197.50
Warn Premium Hubs PN 20990 = 94.52
Shipping = 0.00
Total = 292.02

Rock Auto
Spindle Bearing Kit Timken SBK1 x2 = 19.42
Wheel Bearing (Inner) Timken Set37 x2 = 18.82
Wheel Bearing (Outer) Timken Set45 x2 = 17.08
Wheel Seal Timken 4250 x2 = 6.94
Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Raybestos H5408 x4 = 2.80
Caliper, Right Raybestos FRC4064 = 22.79
Caliper, Left Raybestos FRC4063 = 22.79
Brake Pads Raybestos ATD52M = 40.79
Explorer Forum Discount = 7.57
Shipping = 38.46
Total = 182.32

Sky Manufacturing
Dana 44 Knuckle Ball Joints x2 = 98.00
Dana 44 Knuckle Machining (Keyed) = 55.00
High Steer Arm (Tall) Pass. Side (Keyed) = 99.00
High Steer Install/Stud Kit = 39.00
Dana 44 Ball Joint Tool = 12.00
Shipping = 52.41
Total = 355.41

Ebay (Seller = drivelinesource)
Spicer 5-760x U-Joint x2 = 38.00
Shipping = 9.00
Total = 47.00

BJ’s Off-Road
TT’s Fabworks: Spring Over Axle Kit = 95.00
Shipping = 21.07
Total = 116.07

Sky Manufacturing
Chevy S-10 Solid Axle Hanger Kit = 219.00
Toyota Front Shock Hoops = 69.00
Shipping = 54.60
Total = 342.60

Ballistic Fabrication
Steering Kit (Tie Rod Ends, tube adapters, and tube for tie rods) = 246.99
Shock Tabs = 3.96
Pirate 4x4 Discount = -25.10
Shipping = 63.77
Total = 289.62

Not Yet Purchased

Frontier 4x4
Trail-Gear Heavy Duty Front Leaf Springs (Pair) = 255.55
Shipping = 80.44
Total = 335.99

Adapt-It USA
Wheel Adapters (Rear) 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 Adapter = 114.50
Shipping = 0.00
Total = 114.50

Randy’s Ring & Pinion
Yukon YG D44-488 = 203.40
Yukon Open Carrier Case YC D706025 = 62.95
Install Kit ??? = ???
Yukon F8.8-488 = 265.17
Install Kit ??? = ???
Shipping = ???
Total = ???

Wheels 18x10 (5x5.5) ??? = ???

Shocks ??? = ???

Brake Lines ??? = ???

Front Drive Shaft ??? = ???


I still need to do some more research for the wheels. I need to make sure they will fit with the warn manual hubs. It is hard to find an 18x10 wheel for my 36x15.50R18 M/T MTZ's.

I have a 96 ford ranger 2wd in my backyard just sitting (past abandoned project, bagged and dropped :rolleyes:). Will the steering box, pitman arm, and steering rod out of the ranger work for my swap?

OK. Get ready for the dumb questions. I have a mechanic buddy who told me that if I went to manual hubs I might have to change something in the transfer case? What was he talking about?

Also, I read on some parts website that with the warn hubs on the waggy axle, to "use the correct spindle nut kit". Any idea what that's about?
 


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jperry7783

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That's exactly what it was. One of the needle bearings had fallen down into the cup when I slid the cap on. That was my 1/16" of an inch. Got them together last night.

Its always good when its an easy fix.
 


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Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




RockRanger

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Randy’s Ring & Pinion
Yukon YG D44-488 = 203.40
Yukon F8.8-488 = 265.17
Shipping = 0.00
Total = 468.57

Dont forget install kits if you are doing the gears yourself. also you will probably need a different carrier for the dana 44. It will depend on the gear ratio that the axle had in it when you bought it. Or instead of the carrier you might be able to use "thick gears" if they are available.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Any updates, gotta keep the Trac namesake alive in this setion.
 




mjenk430

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Any updates, gotta keep the Trac namesake alive in this setion.


Thanks for your interest in the build. Waiting on parts at the moment. I've got the axle built hub to hub (minus gears). Waiting on parts to hang it under the truck. UPS says everything should be delivered today. If I get a chance I'll snap some pics of everything tonight and update my parts list. Hope to start cutting out old suspension Friday.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Cool, I just paid my '03 Sport Trac last week so that frees up another $450 a month I can start saving up for my SAS, SOA. I just bought new Cragar Soft 8's with 33x12.50x15 GoodYear DuraTrac's so I might be waiting about two years that way I can save up enough and get use from these tires. Plus I just ordered new upper/ lower ball joints, axle shaft seals so I'll get some use out of them too.
 




OffTrac

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Wow, I can't believe I just now found this thread. I will be following this one closely.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Damn Hugh, you're slackin', LOL. :bsnicker::wavey::dpchug:
 








mjenk430

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Updated parts list in first post.

As you can see, decided to stick with the leaf springs rather than a linked setup. When it came down to it, I just don't have enough confidence in my fab skills to tackle the linked setup. Maybe in the future, once I get some more experience under my belt.

Question regarding the U-bolts: BJ's Offroad shipped 5 u-bolts with the TT Fabworks perches, 3 "skinny" & 2 "fat" ones. I assume the extra u-bolt is to let you decide whether to use a skinny or fat one at the outside of the short axle side? My problem is I wanted to reuse the u-bolt plates from my 74 axle (you can see them sitting under the axle in the pics above). One of the plates fits 2 skinny u-bolts (long side of axle) and the other plate fits 2 fat u-bolts (short side of axle). On the short side of my axle, one u-bolt has to be a fat u-bolt over the pumpkin and the other is a skinny u-bolt over the axle tube, but the plate doesn't match that configuration. What has everyone else done?
 








MidnightRebel07

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Where'd you get the crossmember for the front? I've seen the guys on the S-10 forum use the same crossmember on S-10's and I'm wondering where to look?

I'm looking at starting to stockpile the parts for my SAS and need to start really looking for the parts.

The axle looks good man. :thumbsup::popcorn:
 




mjenk430

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Where'd you get the crossmember for the front? I've seen the guys on the S-10 forum use the same crossmember on S-10's and I'm wondering where to look?

Chevy S-10 Solid Axle Hanger Kit

It's actually designed for the S-10 but I saw where another user on here had used the kit for their explorer, so I thought I would give it a shot. Here's the link to j_mazala's SAS thread: 98 XLT Dana 44 on Leafs

I will still have to do some fabrication on the rear mount because the leafs on the dana 44 are a little wider than the frame rails (I would have had to do that anyways). But the front crossmember should save me some fabrication time.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Thanks, I thought that's what that kit was. Pretty cheap too for only $219.
 




mjenk430

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Got the suspension, 4" superlift, and stock differential dropped this evening.



Untitled


I have off until Monday so hopefully I can make some major progress this weekend. Still need to remove the rack and pinion. Then it's time to break out the plasma cutter and grinder. Lots and lots of grinding. Not looking forward to that part.

Time for some sleep. I sit at a desk all day long, I'm not used to all this physical work. :)
 




Brandon96

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Do you have a buyer for the SuperLift front kit? If not keep your fellow Virginians in mind!! :p: let me know!

Awesome work so far man! :thumbsup:
 




mjenk430

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Do you have a buyer for the SuperLift front kit? If not keep your fellow Virginians in mind!! :p: let me know!

Awesome work so far man! :thumbsup:

It will definitely be going up for sale once I get everything sorted out. I will let you know.

Any good wheeling spots down your way??
 




Brandon96

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It will definitely be going up for sale once I get everything sorted out. I will let you know.

Any good wheeling spots down your way??

ehh not so much my way, but if your willing to travel towards Harrisonburg, even the Lynchburg area let me know, I'll go in a heartbeat. I know some places / got some buddies out there with some land that will put that thing to the test!

Also, I appreciate the consideration on the Superlift.. I've been PM'ing the crap out of people trying to track down a used one. I can't afford to quit college just to afford a new one. :rolleyes:
 




mjenk430

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OK. I have some concerns. First, the pictures:


Leafs Tacked in Place

I am using the stock 74 wagoneer springs for mockup. I will probably go with a 2" lifted spring once I decide exactly where I want it to sit. Like the new wheels/tires? :)


Spring Mount

Doesn't that frame look nice? I wish the inside and bottom already looked that clean. I still have A LOT of grinding to do!


Front Spring Mount

Location of front crossmember/spring mount.


Front Crossmember

As you can see the front crossmember is as far back as it will go.


Rear Spring Mount 2

Still need to make some gussets for the rear mounts.


OK, First concern: Is the angle of the shackle too flat?? At full droop, it is straight up/down. When it compresses it shouldn't swing up much further, because the leaf is almost flat already, and the spring can't get any longer. I don't know? What do you guys think??

And my major concern: the location of the axle. As it sits, the axle is 4" forward of the stock location. I will have to do some major cutting to the front bumper to get it to work. I sat the front bumper cover back on the truck and sat my 36" tires up next to it and it looked really goofy. I know most of you who have done the SAS have moved your axles forward, but 4"?!? I can't move the mounts back any, the front because of the radiator, and the rear because of the body mount. (The rear wouldn't be a big deal to modify the bottom of the body mount, but the front would be a PITA to either raise the radiator? or make a new crossmember). The way I see it, I have a couple of other options, the spring perches have three possible locations to sit the springs. RIght now I have it in the middle hole. I could place it in the front hole to move the axle back 1". I guess that's a start. Or I could flip the spring front to rear because the spring is shorter from center pin to front mount than it is from center pin to rear mount. That would move it back 2" I would have to drill out one of the mount holes though because the bolt sizes are different on the front than they are on the rear. Is there a reason I'm not aware of for the spring being longer in the back than in the front? If I buy 2" lift springs (like the ranchos or maybe the trail-gear leafs) will the center pin still be offset or is the center pin centered? What do you guys think I should do?
 




j_mazala

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My fronts pushed forward about 4" with the Marlin Crawler springs that I'm running and it looks fine once I trimmed up the bumper a bit. Run your centering pin in the offset hole in the perches to bring it back an inch. For the shackle its my understanding that a more laid back shackle angle will make the springs fell softer while a more vertical shackle will have them feeling stiffer when going around a turn, as long as the motion ratio isnt effected by any binding or bottoming out the articulation shouldnt be effected. The only thing you dont want is for the shackle to invert and that will happen if the shackle is in line with the spring during full droop or full articulation. I think the Marlin springs are an inch shorter than the waggys so i didnt have the problem with the body mount but hack it out if you have to, the bottom of its doing nothing
 


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mjenk430

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Will I be able to have a driveshaft made that works with my stock transfer case or do I have to change transfer cases?
 




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