2nd gen lift question

[Sandman92]

Hi All,
I recently picked up a 2nd gen Eddie Bauer AWD v8, its bone stock suspension wise. I'm looking at lift options and would like everyone's experience in what they've done and what has and hasn't worked. I'd like to avoid a body lift and stick strictly with suspension. My goals for the rig is mild trail use, FS roads and Hunting vehicle, I'd like to be on 33's but if getting that high takes big $$$ I'm ok with 31's. (On a budget and just had a kid). I've seen the Add a leaf and new torsion keys, I've also seen the shackle and torsion key options, and I'm sure there's other options out there I'm unaware of. That being said what has worked for you all and what ended up being the final price to get it done?
Side note I'm going through the front suspension and will add "Beefy" Parts to the build list as recommended.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

right now, im running a torsion twist (same effect as the keys you added) and the ARB OME36 rear leaf packs, but on a budget, an AAL and shackles would be your best bet... the next step up with suspension is usually a superlift (since discontinued but they pop up once in a while) or a rough country lift (see dintdobbs vulture thread and wormsexplorer buidl threads), but the rear lift from the RC wont work on a second gen, so you would have to get deaver leaf packs or an OME and shackles iirc... so the easiest improvement is 31s and tt/shackles/aal, but there are other options for more lfit down the line! i must say with 31s,I can go many places!

 

[WormsExplorer]

My lift is new keys and add a leaf and Shackle. My Tire size is 285/75r16 roughly 33 inch tires. I am planning to get extended travel CV axles from Rock Auto and then lift more up front and put stock shackles back on and then do a Spring over axle in the rear. Demonmudder already has the extended travel CV axles and has good reviews about it so far.

 

[traveler]

I just did a torsion twist (OEM Keys) and longer shackles. I also have spring loaded shocks in the rear. I also did a 2" body lift. I wouldn't be too worried about doing a body lift. It's much easier than I thought it would be. The 2" lift doesn't require much more than the blocks and longer bolts, both of which I got easily online. You don't even need to lengthen the steering shaft, just loosen it then retighten it after the lift. You will need to make some adapters to raise your bumpers but thats not a big deal either. Basically just steel plates with holes to bolt them to the OEM location and holes for the new location.

 

[Sandman92]

Thanks guys! Here's a list of parts I've ordered for it. It's an extremely clean 1999 Eddie Bauer with the 5.0L v8. motor is smooth with about 207k on it. There's 0 blow by and looks like a oil seep from the oil pan. doesn't actually drip. I so far changed the oil, Synthetic 5W-30, motorcraft filter also changed the rear Diff fluid, it was leaking. 2 qts of 80W-90 with LS additive. Here's a screen shot of the parts I've ordered, the Explorer was well taken care of most of it life, as far as i know it was owned by a ford mechanic then he sold it to one of his customers who had it for awhile and then I bought it off a man who had no use for it. As you can see the CV axles are a bulk of the order. They are supposed to be for off roading to prevent binding and extreme angles when compared to Factory CV axles. Im coming from the Straight axle world so this is all new to me! lol If anyone had advice or input on what to order let me know. Im leaning toward the TT and extended shackle. if the EX has a sag in the rear ill most likely do the add a leaf or new leaf packs if I can work some OT at work!

 

[Fix4Dirt]

make sure to post pics of the process! and let us know what you think of the CV's!

 

[DemonMudder]

Yeah, as everyone's said, TT, AALs, lifted shackles, lifted leafs, or even 80-96 2wd f150 leafs (they're stiffer if you tow anything and they're lifted a bit more than the standard lifted shackle like the warrior ones I have). Those are the definitely the best budget options you can go with; save up and you can go with the 5" front RC lift for the ranger and SOA in the rear, gives about 5.5" in the rear to match the front. I see you did the same thing I did and bought some of the CVs from Trakmotive, definitely a nice set so far, haven't tried to bind up yet. With a maxed out TT after those CVs and warrior shackles for the rear, I'm running 265/75r16s with minimal plastic trimming in the front. But as @WormsExplorer has pointed out, can go up to a 33" if you're willing to go that high. Let us know how the build goes, make sure to take plenty of pictures!

 

[blakshukvw]

Torsion twist in front and have your stock leafs reached. AAL does not lift the explorer. It only adds capacity. I never liked the look of the long shackles hanging down so I installed AAL and had the whole spring assemblies reached for a 1.5” lift to match my torsion twist.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

correct me if im wrong, but dont rearchd springs just flatten out over time again? its like taking something already worn and trying to make it "unworn" when the underlying wear still remains? correct me if im wrong though! I dont have rearched springs, so idk

 

[DemonMudder]

correct me if im wrong, but dont rearchd springs just flatten out over time again? its like taking something already worn and trying to make it "unworn" when the underlying wear still remains? correct me if im wrong though! I dont have rearched springs, so idk

I mean, I haven't done it, but that's what I'd guess, probably not as long of a lifespan though since they're still worn from time. The metal can only be reshaped for so long before the wear just becomes too much and you have to get a new set anyway. For the price it would be to re-arch them since there ain't many places to do it, might as well get new ones: lifted, oem, or the f150 leaf swap, last ya longer and trust it a bit more.

 

[blakshukvw]

correct me if im wrong, but dont rearchd springs just flatten out over time again? its like taking something already worn and trying to make it "unworn" when the underlying wear still remains? correct me if im wrong though! I dont have rearched springs, so idk

Mine never did. Maybe because I used the AAL along with the re-arch but mine were and are still fine. In fact I’m using the same set on a 2nd X now and still no sag. The re-arch was cheap too. I spent less than $100 to have them re-arched a few years ago.

 

[blakshukvw]

Yeah, as everyone's said, TT, AALs, lifted shackles, lifted leafs, or even 80-96 2wd f150 leafs (they're stiffer if you tow anything and they're lifted a bit more than the standard lifted shackle like the warrior ones I have). Those are the definitely the best budget options you can go with; save up and you can go with the 5" front RC lift for the ranger and SOA in the rear, gives about 5.5" in the rear to match the front. I see you did the same thing I did and bought some of the CVs from Trakmotive, definitely a nice set so far, haven't tried to bind up yet. With a maxed out TT after those CVs and warrior shackles for the rear, I'm running 265/75r16s with minimal plastic trimming in the front. But as @WormsExplorer has pointed out, can go up to a 33" if you're willing to go that high. Let us know how the build goes, make sure to take plenty of pictures!

You’re TT is maxed out? With stock keys only? Maybe your bars have more sag than mine but I only twisted mine 1.5 turns and I’m clearing the same tires as you. No way could I max out my TT as I had cv noise with 2 full turns on TT and had to back it down.

Never heard of Trakmotive before you mentioned them. Those look awesome. I’m gonna have to get some.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

my d/s TT is maxed out, and its not even the full 2in, but the p/s has alot more threads left... i think they were all indexed differently, as afaik Gerald (gjarrett) truck was off even stock... and the heights for all of them are different (wear on tbars, etc)

 

[DintDobbs]

@Sandman92 You're on the right track with the Moog parts up front, those are some gnarly hunks of metal. I'm pretty sure I put airtime on my front end yesterday, and Moog everything with a Superlift can take a severe thrashing for sure. Ask anyone on here, Moog is the way to go.

I'm running 33x12.5's on 15x10's with a Superlift 4" + the torsion key re-index up front, can't find my ref sheet but "B" code T-bars if I recall correctly, about 3" of trimming all around the front arch needed because of 1.5" spacers besides all that (could drop it down to 4" lift but don't want to pay for an alignment again, just got one last month-ish), and 2" shackles and 1.5" OME lift springs in the rear with no trimming (still scrubs on flex with all the extra width, see photo). I SQUAT WHILE PARKED. Front is about 1-1.5" above the rear, so if your state has laws about this, ye be warned.

33's is extreme on an Explorer, and as you will hear from others, if you're going to climb rocks and stuff, ditching the T-bars is the only way to get a breakover angle. I have mostly mud here, so flex and breakover aren't a big deal usually... although I also managed to get stuck yesterday, with my front left in the sky. I love IFS, but it has its limits. I forget what all this cost together, but if you want a loadout like this, expect to pay in the scope of $4 grand for parts alone, then add installation and body mods besides. If you want to ditch the T-bars, you'll shell out even more.

I have NO BODY LIFT and would strongly advise steering clear at all costs. All those longer bolts and fun little adapters @traveler mentioned are screaming "BREAK ME FIRST! SOMEBODY PLEASE BREAK ME!" as soon as you actually smack a good rock or some doofus in a 3500 pickup decides to look at his phone. No hate on anybody, just seriously, don't even think about body lifts. I've seen the devastation that occurs to a properly-mounted bumper via my other project truck, and I'd never condemn the worst fool in the world to a collision where all he has to save him is a funky bracket his bumper shouldn't be attached to.

Don't have a good pic from the other side, with so much mud, so many trees, and the front right wheel stuck in a hole between two outcroppings... but I hit about all the flex I could use. Had her rocking like a seesaw on the front right and rear left, which as you can see was crammed as far up as it goes without more lift. Front is at full sag, still partially grounded in the pic, but spinning freely. Just gives you an idea of what kind of flex you'll be looking at.

Also, concerning Superlift 4" vs. Rough Country, 5.5" is enough to run 35's easily, all day. Don't even think about a 5.5" lift unless you want to go full-on custom and/or SOA on the rear, widen the track, etc. Not advisable for everyday driving by any means, and getting in and out becomes difficult for us short people, so consider that too if you're short. Although, it is a fat stack cheaper than the Superlift, which comes with rear blocks and U-bolts you won't use unless you go SOA... but you said 33's, not 35's.

Most others don't have the clearance issues on flex/steering that I have because they run narrow stance. I can't do that here, and wouldn't if I could. If you're into skinnies, have a ball, but I'm just warning you about potential complications/expenses in case you do decide to go this route. Always double your budget calculation for these things, because I promise it will cost more than you can possibly plan for.

 

[blakshukvw]

my d/s TT is maxed out, and its not even the full 2in, but the p/s has alot more threads left... i think they were all indexed differently, as afaik Gerald (gjarrett) truck was off even stock... and the heights for all of them are different (wear on tbars, etc)

Well they do tend to wear the driver bar with the weight of the driver and fuel on that side all the time. My first X was the same as yours with the driver side bolt run way in and pass side had more adjustment left in it.

 

[DintDobbs]

Put this bumper on a bracket and see what happens. That bent the frame rails, so don't pretend a bracket could be strong enough to prevent it.

 

[blakshukvw]

Put this bumper on a bracket and see what happens. That bent the frame rails, so don't pretend a bracket could be strong enough to prevent it.

View attachment 427695

I know what you mean. I was rear-ended last august. Fully stopped and driver was going 40mph. Stock height. My rear bumper was a pretzel and the right rear frame rail pushed down like it’s designed to. Had the frame pulled and replaced the bumper. All is well. I can only imagine what would have happened with an improper mounted bumper.

 

[DintDobbs]

@blakshukvw Preach it, man. I can't advise against body lifts enough. And besides, we all know body lifts don't actually give you more clearance, because all your suspension and drivetrain crunchy bits are still down there, getting thrashed on the rocks any way. @Sandman92, cheap is always bad. Save on price, do it twice. Don't listen to anybody who says otherwise. Suspension lift or stock height. No hate, only experience.

DO consider adding trailer hitch receiver bars (as high class as possible) to destroy the dummies that hit you, though, because those suckers can take a royal thrashing and save your frame, in some cases.

Incidentally... I have no idea how fast my sister was going when she hit the stopped F-250, but I got a free Durango out of the mess. Win.

 

[blakshukvw]

@blakshukvw Preach it, man. I can't advise against body lifts enough. And besides, we all know body lifts don't actually give you more clearance, because all your suspension and drivetrain crunchy bits are still down there, getting thrashed on the rocks any way. @Sandman92, cheap is always bad. Save on price, do it twice. Don't listen to anybody who says otherwise. Suspension lift or stock height. No hate, only experience.

DO consider adding trailer hitch receiver bars (as high class as possible) to destroy the dummies that hit you, though, because those suckers can take a royal thrashing and save your frame, in some cases.

Incidentally... I have no idea how fast my sister was going when she hit the stopped F-250, but I got a free Durango out of the mess. Win.

Absolutely right on the receiver hitch. Mine was bent down with the frame rail. Frame shop used it to straight everything and it’s fine again too.

Egen lift kits don’t offer any more ground clearance since they just move everything down. Bigger wheels and tires actually provide the most ground clearance.

 

[DintDobbs]

@blakshukvw I stand corrected, you are quite right, the axles and diff's will always have the same clearance (IFS exists, so your experiences may vary somewhat) regardless of lift, unless you go for bigger tires, but @Sandman92 said he wants 33's already. Still excellent to clarify that detail, thanks!

So yes, the axle-side components will always hang low, no matter what you do. The drive shafts, gas tank, transmission, frame rails, and all the precious little wires and tidbits under there that you don't think about until you break them must be protected from the evil Mr. Rock at all costs.

@Sandman92 I also forgot to mention earlier that with a lift any higher than 3", you WILL, absolutely, positively, undoubtedly, NEED A DOUBLE CARDAN (a.k.a. double U-joint) FRONT DRIVE SHAFT. Period. Ask any one. Rough Country makes a gnarly one, I've been impressed with theirs.