3rd gen Explorer Coilovers

[Ronin8002]

Ok thanks I tried looking at their site but only saw their general products. Where can I find a link to their kit so I can see a price?

There's no link that I'm aware of, best just to call them to get info and pricing.

 

[rangermidtn]

I finally got around to re installing my coilovers, I also installed quicklifts in the rear with a spacer.

 

[rangermidtn]

After looking at the suspension some more, I am not really liking the coilover angle I have. The suspension will cycle thru, but I just dont like the angle. The 1st pic is of the way it is mounted now, the second is of how I cut the mount to give me the correct angle. They will mount in the same location but will move the mounting holes forward to correct the angle.

 

[Mrooney322]

has anyone looked into coils for the rear? or is it pointless? i have been looking into swapping to coils, the quicklifts and spacers ride pretty rough lol

 

[4WDriver]

This is not so much a conversion, as a swap of type of coilovers. The stock setup ARE coilovers, NOT struts. A strut is an integral part of the structure of the front end; I.E. they ARE the upper control arm. Struts also include the pivot point for the function of steering, and you MUST get an alignment after replacing struts, as the strut itself is integral to the alignment, and by disassembling it from the knuckle, you have changed the alignment setting. The only reasons you are seeing a difference in ride quality is A.) You replaced parts that had 60,000 + miles with new, B.) You have essentially re-tuned the suspension ride by selecting a spring with a different rate, and coilovers with different (and adjustable) dampening rates, which happen to be more to your liking.
It is entirely possible to get the factory coilovers that will ride as nice, simply spec out a spring rate you want, and spec out the valving the way you'd like. Ride quality is all about tuning the spring rate and dampener valving to the vehicle weight and suspension geometry.
The benefit to swapping to adjustable coilovers such as you have, rangermidtn, is adjustabilty, both in preload and ride height, and dampening rate. Plus, you have more travel from the ones you selected.
What I don't understand is why with lifting these vehicles, everyone goes all whacky because the factory coilovers appear similar to struts due to having that top bearing plate. Why does truxx spacer go IN coilovers requiring they be taken apart necessitating the use of a spring compressor??? Why not put a spacer between the top of the bearing plate and frame mount ("shock tower") and retain full travel of factory coilovers?
Don't get me wrong, I am not knocking your work in any way, I think you did an awesome job getting your vehicle the way you want it and attaining more flex! I just want to make sure others don't think they need to go trough everything you did, just to get a better ride out of their rig.
I am actually planning a suspension mod to get a little lift if availability of everything works out: ProComp's new prorunner adjustable coilovers for F-150 and swap springs for lower rate and see if I can have them custom valved a little softer. I still need to get some measurements, but almost certain I can make 'em work, and for around $100 a piece, cheaper than factory replacement coilovers!

 

[Ronin8002]

What I don't understand is why with lifting these vehicles, everyone goes all whacky because the factory coilovers appear similar to struts due to having that top bearing plate. Why does truxx spacer go IN coilovers requiring they be taken apart necessitating the use of a spring compressor??? Why not put a spacer between the top of the bearing plate and frame mount ("shock tower") and retain full travel of factory coilovers?
Don't get me wrong, I am not knocking your work in any way, I think you did an awesome job getting your vehicle the way you want it and attaining more flex! I just want to make sure others don't think they need to go trough everything you did, just to get a better ride out of their rig.
I am actually planning a suspension mod to get a little lift if availability of everything works out: ProComp's new prorunner adjustable coilovers for F-150 and swap springs for lower rate and see if I can have them custom valved a little softer. I still need to get some measurements, but almost certain I can make 'em work, and for around $100 a piece, cheaper than factory replacement coilovers!

I think the reason everyone calls them struts is because Ford does (EDIT: ok maybe not....could've sworn I saw them use that term in the shop manuals but just checked and they call it a shock absorber and spring assembly. Guess the strut term comes from what the aftermarket suppliers call them). To answer your question about the truxx spacers.....they actually do sit between the top of the bearing plate and the shock tower. They aren't installed IN the strut. Its hard to get full travel with a spacer lift.... because the spacers advance the range of motion of the control arms the spindle ends up hitting the coil spring as the suspension unloads. Usually it binds up there...so the travel stops. The aftermarket coilovers can be equipped with a smaller diameter coil spring so that gives a lot more clearance for the spindle to pass by as the suspension unloads and allows for more travel.
I'll be interested to see how the F-150 parts fit up for you since I had looked into it a few years ago but wasn't able to confirm the bolt pattern on the bearing plate or if the lower shock mount would fit up right. If you can get it to work definitely post a write up...would be a great mod.

 

[4WDriver]

Thanks for the info, Ronin8002. I had seen a post a looooong time ago, when the truxx spacers first were gaining popularity on here, and I remember it saying you needed to take the "strut" apart utilizing a spring compressor. Maybe that was an error or they were referring to something else going off on some tangent, anyways.... Glad to know people aren't over thinking the simple concept of a spacer lift. There is a simpler solution to the bind between the spring and UCA... Get the BTF extended UCA's with uniball. Ends up cheaper, and smoother install, than going whole hog custom adjustable coilovers. Also, no fabrication needed. Although, if your existing shock-and-spring assemblies are worn out and needing replacement anyway, guess it's not that much more money to step up to the adjustables, and a good excuse to spend some quality time with the "girlfriend-in-the-garage"!

 

[rangermidtn]

Thanks for the info, Ronin8002. I had seen a post a looooong time ago, when the truxx spacers first were gaining popularity on here, and I remember it saying you needed to take the "strut" apart utilizing a spring compressor. Maybe that was an error or they were referring to something else going off on some tangent, anyways.... Glad to know people aren't over thinking the simple concept of a spacer lift. There is a simpler solution to the bind between the spring and UCA... Get the BTF extended UCA's with uniball. Ends up cheaper, and smoother install, than going whole hog custom adjustable coilovers. Also, no fabrication needed. Although, if your existing shock-and-spring assemblies are worn out and needing replacement anyway, guess it's not that much more money to step up to the adjustables, and a good excuse to spend some quality time with the "girlfriend-in-the-garage"!

I have got the BTF upper arms on mine, I have had the spacers and the stock coilovers. If you off road I do not recommend them. Like James said you lose wheel travel with them.The stock coilovers only have 2.5 inches of travel and that just does not work for off road adding the btf arms doesn't help that. The adjustable coilovers give you a better ride plus some lift and way more wheel travel.

 

[rangermidtn]

I finally got the lower mounts the way I want, you can see the coilover is very close to be ing the same angle as the factory one.

 

[Ronin8002]

There is a simpler solution to the bind between the spring uand UCA... Get the BTF extended UCA's with uniball. Ends up cheaper, and smoother install, than going whole hog custom adjustable coilovers. Also, no fabrication needed

Like rangermidtn said, the BTF arms don't fix the binding between the spring and the knuckle. It still happens...yes the arms are slightly longer than stock but not by much...definitely not enough to allow spring clearance. What the arms do address is the weak upper ball joints. The uniball will stand up to the increased operating angles and won't catastrophically fail Like a stock type one.

 

[Ronin8002]

Nice work...that looks really good.

I'm putting together a 3" body lift project for my truck...when I've finished it I'll probably redesign my mounts again to reduce the angle on the suspension parts a bit as well.

I finally got the lower mounts the way I want, you can see the coilover is very close to be ing the same angle as the factory one.

 

[rangermidtn]

Nice work...that looks really good.

I'm putting together a 3" body lift project for my truck...when I've finished it I'll probably redesign my mounts again to reduce the angle on the suspension parts a bit as well.

Thanks, should be easier on parts with the correct angle now.