410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier" | Page 69 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

Dropped out of the race yesterday… had to do some Road maintenance :) trees trying to take over
My right knee is about had it with me climbing up and down working over this engine hahaha nd hiking the road

Anyways lower intake is on I’m working on the rocker covers and intake this am

Fingers crossed!!!

IMG_3240.jpeg


IMG_3236.jpeg


Mother in law is
Making huge improvements day by day, acl may not be torn after all! Great news just strained? Deep bruise? We will find out
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Note to self
Do compression test first

Heads are coming off engine is coming out
 


















Note to self
Do compression test first

Heads are coming off engine is coming out
never something you want to see on a fresh build. did the motor lean out?
 






Engine is out
Heads are off
Not clear exactly what happened yet
Cyl 1 major Issues
New engine will be prepped assembled and installed asap

IMG_3268.jpeg

Cyl 1 78psi

IMG_3265.jpeg

Plugs

IMG_3315.jpeg

Ready to be pulled from the top
Ac compressor and line remain in place, engine comes out around them

IMG_3327.jpeg


IMG_3329.jpeg


IMG_3330.jpeg


Starter, converter access cover, header
Bolts removed. 15/16 socket used to bar engine over and all 4ea 14mm converter nuts are removed


IMG_3331.jpeg


Trans crossmember removed, trans mount, exhaust mount

IMG_3334.jpeg

With t case lowered all bellhousing
Bolts are easily accessed as well as trans dipstick hold Down bolt

IMG_3335.jpeg


Ratchet strap under t case holds it up and a piece of timber across the torsion bar suspension supports keep the trans from hitting the ground

IMG_3337.jpeg


Engine is removed with headers in place
Engine mount plates left in engine bay, with suspension lift it is easy to access the plate
To block studs

IMG_3339.jpeg


I love my hoist, $90 at checker auto back in Colorado 20 years ago… sucker has pulled so many engines. Has enough height to clear even on this ranger

IMG_3341.jpeg


IMG_3342.jpeg


IMG_3345.jpeg


IMG_3349.jpeg


IMG_3350.jpeg


IMG_3351.jpeg


IMG_3353.jpeg


IMG_3352.jpeg


IMG_3355.jpeg


IMG_3356.jpeg


IMG_3360.jpeg


IMG_3361.jpeg


IMG_3363.jpeg


Ring issue cyl 1?
Best guess at this point
 






I've bought core engines off Craigslist that looked like that and the cause of death was running lean.
 






Yeah, 1 and 8 are both hurt

Agree with above.

Would like to see the spark plugs that hurt motor. Those look to be changed.
Edit
That engine went lean, tried to turn backwards real fast due to preignition, wiped weakest drivetrain component
 






Scanning pics from here, I see a slight nick in the cyl 1 head, in the squish area, corresponding to the area of broken piston.
I'm betting the pre ignition burned off the spark plug electrode, it landed on top of piston, then piston came up and smashed it against the head, something had to give.

Happened to Betty's first Engine when radiator cracked open on highway.

Been thru this with both of my mountaineers. First expensive one was my fault- tuning

Second was a plain ol overheat.

Hint. When coolant goes away, there is nothing for sensors to measure, so, all looks cool, until it slaps.
 






So what’s to keep the lean condition from destroying another engine?
Why was it lean? Tune or?

Those are the plugs from this hurt wngine they have 2000 miles on them

So the lean condition causes heat and the rings heat up and swell and weld themselves together and blamo piston comes apart

What a fiasco
How liable is the Holley tuner guy? I mean this is costing me a ton of money.

I’m not covering another engine.
Again my sport trac has same cam springs pushrods and she still runs fine after 15k miles on same setup (factory pcm and tune)

I think we all agree that a long road trip before a FINAL TUNE and during break in period for the diffs, trans, cam, and the rest of the Build was a very bad idea

No electrodes missing from
Plugs

No pieces missing from lifters

No metal in oil filter

I have lots of very very good engine dudes looking at these pics with me, first thing everyone says is “lean”
 






Overheat, post 668

 






1 is hurt cyl 8 looks fine bank 2 had even and decent compression
Unless you see something I do not

Boat anchor now
I’m going to check the cam dimensions see if it survived
I’m hoping to re use cam and springs
 












Yeah what’s up with that cyl 3, 133 psi and 8 105? Time bomb I guess

All 8 injectors
Clicking and fuel psi is/was perfect
Valvetrain looked very good this time around
Starts and runs easily, just on 7 holes and with a click clack noise hahaha
 






Can you pull the piston out of the 1st hole? I'd like to see what the rings look like and if the skirt was rubbing. The scuff marks in the pictures of the cylinder wall appear aluminum color on my phone.
 






Absolutely
I plan to dismantle the heads and bottom end today
I need to get this thing running and out of here before it gets snowed in

The bore is not smooth anymore I can feel depressions in the bore, it feels “wobbly”
I can see scuff marks on the side of the piston as it passes by the spark plug hole

This engine had raw fuel in the crank case for a while, if you guys remember I had a stuck injector dumping fuel and there was quite a bit of cranking before the Holley actually ever fired the engine

Many things may have lead to the demise of this block
I just want to make sure we don’t fry another one with a bad setup or tune?

Welcome to the game!
Keep the ideas and info coming

I’m paying for this mistake this time around but I cannot cover another engine if it’s not something I did… not enough money or 302s to go down that path
 






If that block could be saved with some machine work I'd offer to buy it as a core.
 






one other thing is how long was it driven with one of the tunes the holley comes with before it was actually tuned? most people thing you can put that in, set it on learn and keep going when that tune is only for a start up. as for cranking when starting mine will most times crank 4 seconds before it fires off (warm or hot start). what was explained to me was unlike the factory computer, as soon as you take power away from the holley, or shut it off it will lose where number 1 top dead is so it has to make a 360 rotation to find it again. wish i could tell you why it took a chunk out of the piston.
as for the block, i wouldnt boat anchor it just yet. if you ever want to do a stroker, you might be able to use it. the block that is in mine, i gave it to member dono to use when he had it built. i pulled it from member celly's truck because it had a oil starvation issue and messed everything up, but was able to be used for a 347.
 






one other thing is how long was it driven with one of the tunes the holley comes with before it was actually tuned? most people thing you can put that in, set it on learn and keep going when that tune is only for a start up. as for cranking when starting mine will most times crank 4 seconds before it fires off (warm or hot start). what was explained to me was unlike the factory computer, as soon as you take power away from the holley, or shut it off it will lose where number 1 top dead is so it has to make a 360 rotation to find it again. wish i could tell you why it took a chunk out of the piston.
as for the block, i wouldnt boat anchor it just yet. if you ever want to do a stroker, you might be able to use it. the block that is in mine, i gave it to member dono to use when he had it built. i pulled it from member celly's truck because it had a oil starvation issue and messed everything up, but was able to be used for a 347.
That block should be named Christine, after the car.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Absolutely
I plan to dismantle the heads and bottom end today
I need to get this thing running and out of here before it gets snowed in

The bore is not smooth anymore I can feel depressions in the bore, it feels “wobbly”
I can see scuff marks on the side of the piston as it passes by the spark plug hole

This engine had raw fuel in the crank case for a while, if you guys remember I had a stuck injector dumping fuel and there was quite a bit of cranking before the Holley actually ever fired the engine

Many things may have lead to the demise of this block
I just want to make sure we don’t fry another one with a bad setup or tune?

Welcome to the game!
Keep the ideas and info coming

I’m paying for this mistake this time around but I cannot cover another engine if it’s not something I did… not enough money or 302s to go down that path
My opinion is tuning issue. Not your fault.


Edit dumb question time.
Any codes? Is stock ecm used in this setup?

How are trouble codes logged and saved?
 






Back
Top