'99 Explorer Sport 2WD Manual Trans--Difficulty shifting especially in low gears

[fymbscu]

Have had random difficulty shifting from time to time.
Last night it happened again at the end of a trip but managed to get off the road and parked. On return trip, initially could not get into any gear with the engine running but shifted fine with the engine off. Tried to start with the clutch in and shift in reverse and it didn't like that at all. First gear was a "no go" but managed to get it rolling in second and shifted fine through the higher gears to get home. Finally went into first gear when parked.

Have checked the transmission fluid level after checking these forums and as the reverse gear episode led me to believe low fluid could be the culprit. Have a slight incline, maybe 10 degrees, to my driveway. Did not jack up the car and a little black fluid came out of the fill hole suggesting the fluid is not low. Is this a fair conclusion?

What is the next logical step?

 

[fymbscu]

After my original post, found that the clutch reservoir was about half full and topped it off. Had to make the same round trip yesterday. Was able to get in and out of first gear but now feels sluggish. Didn't need to use reverse out of my driveway as could coast down the incline, but definitely had a rough go backing out of the parking space on the other end. Will try to bleed the clutch next but have 1-2 more trips before I can really do any major work. Seems like I am honing in on the slave cylinder and or the "throw-out" bearing for the clutch. Probably a good idea to change the transmission fluid also although the Haynes manual suggests that it doesn't need to be changed for the life of the vehicle.

All guidance appreciated.

Best regards,

Mark

 

[FijiBill]

All my manual transmission issues have been with the pilot bearing disintegrating. It would shift fine with the engine off. But with things running the bad bearing would drag and you couldn't shift. Does it make any noises when the clutch is pushed in? How old is the clutch? Unfortunately there is no way to know for sure unless you drop the transmission and at that point you may as well replace the clutch/pilot bearing. It sounds like the transmission itself is OK.

 

[410Fortune]

So there is an inspection cover on the side of the trans so you can see the clutch operate. You can get a decent idea of the condition of the driven disc through there
You can also measure the travel and see if the slave is moving the clutch the required distance which I think is 1-3/4” but that is from memory (there are lots of you tube videos on this)

If the clutch reservoir was low on fluid then it must be leaking somewhere… typically the slave cylinder.
Any wetness under the clutch? This would be a slave cylinder leak and it will need to be replaced

The shifter bushings can wear out making it more difficult to shift, those bushings are replaced from the top under the shifter boot

If it has been working all this time and now all of a sudden you are having a hard time getting into 1 and r then it’s likely just time for a clutch
When we do a clutch on these rigs we use only luk (factory) parts because the labor is so $$$
I replace the master cylinder the slave cylinder the clutch and pilot bearing. I either have the flywheel surfaced or do a at home surface job with some sandpaper and brake clean

How
Many miles on the 99?

Yes the fluid is at level of some comes out when you remove the fill plug… however it should be brite red… not Black. Good time to change that fluid and the tmcase as well.
We use Mercon iii / dextron in the Mazda 5
Speed and t case

 

[fymbscu]

Had this random shift issue maybe 2-3 times in the last year, but this time it didn't seem to want to resolve. It doesn't generally make any appreciably different noise when the clutch is pressed in. However, the gyrations I experienced with that shift into reverse were louder than usual and sounded like metal parts struggling to mesh together. And so I thought maybe the trans fluid was low. But my check says "no" as fluid came out of the fill hole.

Visual inspection of the trans/clutch is dry. No drips present.
Transmission Part # F87A EA D419961

Are the throw out bearing and pilot bearing the same thing?

I'm on the original clutch and transmission, maybe by virtue of being in Southern California? Frankly, came to believe it was indestructible as it has lasted so long.

Currently at 247k. Had to replace tires about a year ago, so my new goal is to make it to 300k...

 

[410Fortune]

I’m sorry but clutches simply don’t last 250k miles that thing is long overdue for a change
You did good getting it this far

The pilot bearing is inside the flywheel at the engine side of the input shaft

The throw out bearing is attached to the clutch slave cylinder and is what the clutch rides on when disengaged

You need a clutch
I recommend a new luk clutch rep set
, new luk master cylinder and new luk slave cylinder. Using cheaper parts like “torque pro” or “duralast” will have you doing this again real soon. I will only install luk clutches and I personally do about 3-5 clutches a year, for the last 30 years

 

[fymbscu]

I replace the master cylinder the slave cylinder the clutch and pilot bearing. I either have the flywheel surfaced or do a at home surface job with some sandpaper and brake clean

The throw out bearing is attached to the clutch slave cylinder

I recommend a new luk clutch rep set
, new luk master cylinder and new luk slave cylinder.

Thanks FOURTEN. Sounds like the throw out bearing is included with the slave cylinder? I will follow your recommendations but this job is too big for me to tackle on my own.

Unfortunately, lost my trusted mechanic to Covid. How would you recommend finding a new shop for this job?

 

[Turdle]

Try the local fox body mustang club guys. Anyone who repairs manual transmissions in them, will easily be able to fix you up, and do it right. More room to work. Pretty much same setup.

 

[410Fortune]

I agree this is a cakewalk
Rear wheel drive explorer is super easy to do the clutch in

Mustang or Ranger dudes would be all over this. I would charge you $5-800 to do the job complete at My shop Take two days working a couple hours a day

Yes the t o bearing comes attached to the new slave cylinder

Rockauto has all the parts you need and you can get 5% off

Luk clutch 07139
Luk master cylinder lmc346
Luk slave lsc003b

Discount code for 5% off
307341715260563691

I love Rock auto and no I am not affiliated they just really like me because they get half my
Money

 

[fymbscu]

Thanks FOURTEN for the part number confirmation/clarification. I saw them myself at rockauto and also "LUK CRS018 Clutch Master Cylinder and Line Assembly" and wasn't sure which way to go until your post.

By getting both the clutch kit and the slave cylinder, sounds like I will have a spare release bearing when all is said and done. Is that right?

Presume I should also replace the transmission fluid as part of the job. What dribbled out of the fill hole was deep black.

I don't really indulge in social media. Still baffled about finding that local mechanic. Got a recommendation from a friend who is a capable GM/Chevy guy who passed as he hasn't worked on Ford. Only get an answering machine when I call the referral and no callback.

Edit to add: Also, stupid question, would $800 complete include parts & labor?

 

[410Fortune]

No just labor you bring the parts and fluid
Need 3 quarts of Mercon 3 for the trans drain and fill
If I provide bolts fluid etc you are expected to reimburse me.
Stuff like rags, brake fluid, disposing your old fluid, any welding needed the shop covers as part of the removal and re install

Also if you want flywheel surface at machine shop I / you pay $60 to have that done, remove flywheel, drive to town, drop it off, come back later and get it …. I don’t charge for all the trips and time but I do expect you to cover the $60
If I do it with wire wheel, sandpaper and brake clean it’s free all depends on condition of your parts



No spare parts when you are done the release bearing comes with the slave not the clutch rep set
The pilot bearing comes with the clutch kit

Disco battery remove shifter and boot
Drain and removal of your transmission
Usually exhaust y pipe unless I can get the trans over / around it
rear d shaft and starter have to come down
Remove pilot bearing, I use a piece of bread believe it or not, the bread acts as a hydraulic fluid and pushes the old pilot bearing out with no mess
Surface or have flywheel surfaced
Drive in new pilot bearing
Install new clutch with alignment tool
Clean trans and surrounding areas
Remove and replace old slave cyl
Stab trans
Install starter exhaust r driveshaft shifter
Fill trans
Bench Bleed new master cylinder and hydraulic line
Remove and replace master cylinder
Bleed slave cylinder

Re hookup battery and road test

$600-800 is what I would get for my expertise, use of my shop, and my labor all extras are passed onto the customer
It’s a bargain
If there is an issue I go a loooooooong way to make things right… I would never leave a job in finished and I am meticulous as a ranger specialist
Shop rate right now is over $125 an hour most places so usually a clutch job is pushing $2000 these days

 

[fymbscu]

Wish you were closer, FOURTEN. At 1300+ miles you're just out of reach for me.

I'm unclear about Mercon 3. Saw the "VALVOLINE 798153 Dexron III / Mercon ATF" at RockAuto.
My Ford manual says "Motorcraft MERCON ATF" for the 5-speed manual whereas the Haynes also says "Mercon type automatic transmission fluid". Sorry, thought Haynes was different but that was for the automatic trans. Anyway, don't see "Mercon 3" when searching, just "Dexron III / Mercon".

Have some feelers out for locals but no hits at this point.

 

[410Fortune]

Dextron / Mercon iii are the same thing basically it’s regular old School atf

You do not want Mercon v or lv

 

[fymbscu]

Hey FOURTEN,

A new flywheel, LUK LFW155, is cheaper at rockauto and quicker than having to resurface the existing one, so am going this route.

Shop is upselling me on a gasket between the clutch and transmission. Would you agree to this?

Shop also wants two full days for the job.

Also wanted to add that, even before the events last week caused me to start this thread, was experiencing an intermittent and momentary squeal up starting the engine sometimes. Thought it was my starter but it diagnosed as "okay" at Autozone and O'Reilly. Based on the Haynes manual, I now speculate that this sound could be coming from the "clutch/starter interlock switch" something I was not even aware of. Shouldn't this also be resolved when the clutch is replaced?

 

[410Fortune]

Upselling you on a gasket for the front of the 5 speed?


The clutch starter interlock switch does not spin or squeak it is simply a switch on top of your clutch pedal

A new flywheel and shipping is cheaper than re surface?
This is sounding like one expensive shop

 

[FijiBill]

Hey FOURTEN,

A new flywheel, LUK LFW155, is cheaper at rockauto and quicker than having to resurface the existing one, so am going this route.

Shop is upselling me on a gasket between the clutch and transmission. Would you agree to this?

Shop also wants two full days for the job.

Also wanted to add that, even before the events last week caused me to start this thread, was experiencing an intermittent and momentary squeal up starting the engine sometimes. Thought it was my starter but it diagnosed as "okay" at Autozone and O'Reilly. Based on the Haynes manual, I now speculate that this sound could be coming from the "clutch/starter interlock switch" something I was not even aware of. Shouldn't this also be resolved when the clutch is replaced?

My speculation that your startup squeal is the destroyed pilot bearing. In my case, I used to have metallic squeaks whenever I pushed the clutch in. The needle bearings were obliterated and the shaft was just riding metal on metal. A new clutch should take care of all that.