'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

Im new to the forum, wondering if anyone has any suggestions or advice. Goal is to cam it, head milling,porting and polishing, and a single 2.5inch exhaust with a good 87 octane tune. Motor has 153k on it. All stock car. Parts list so far:

Sealed Power ZH2244 roller lifters, $40 a piece
Comp 49-422-8 camshaft, $300

As you can tell I need some advice on rods, valve springs, rocker arms, and gaskets, or anything else

thanks

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Out of control Air/Fuel

So the explorer has not been driveable for the past two months. What became an intermittent problem grew into the norm. My air/fuel will not sit steady at part throttle. At start-up it bounces back and forth from 17+ to 10.0. Driving around it sits at 10-12, after warmed up it will run so lean my gauge wont pick it up. It bucks hard and starves of fuel. The weird thing is that it runs perfectly at WOT. At WOT its right where its tuned to at 13.0. That's why I am hesitant to change the fuel pump. But it does have 170,x.. miles on it so maybe I should put in a new pump anyway. Ive surfed the net and have found no other related incidents. I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions or similar experiences. Again, at part throttle it suffers from lean air/fuel, and at WOT it runs as it should.

 

[jd4242]

13 seems rich for a na motor.I idle around 14.8-15.5ish wot im around 13.8-14.for crusing it goes up around 16-18 maybe even higher depending on the motor load.

I would start with fuel filter then pump if you feel like its starving.

 

[jd4242]

Or maybe a bad or going bad O2.any codes

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Ok thanks. yea I already got a filter and will order a pump soon. It used to be 14.7- 15.5 idle and driving around. It's def not right the way it currently is. It can't hold idle or constant rpm. I was thinking o2's as well. No, no codes at all which I find very strange cause this thing never used to have a problem spitting codes at me. Only thing holding me up is the single digit weather and snow. Tired of freezing my ass off working on the thing. I was thinking of an oem pump. Would it be able to keep up with an eventual 125 wet shot? Or should i take this opportunity to go aftermarket upgrade?

 

[jd4242]

Ok thanks. yea I already got a filter and will order a pump soon. It used to be 14.7- 15.5 idle and driving around. It's def not right the way it currently is. It can't hold idle or constant rpm. I was thinking o2's as well. No, no codes at all which I find very strange cause this thing never used to have a problem spitting codes at me. Only thing holding me up is the single digit weather and snow. Tired of freezing my ass off working on the thing. I was thinking of an oem pump. Would it be able to keep up with an eventual 125 wet shot? Or should i take this opportunity to go aftermarket upgrade?

I would step up.ive run the walbro and TRE and like the TRE better honestly.I run the 300LPH in my ranger and walbro 255LPH in the explorer .could be the O2 going out also tho, just not out the range to throw a code yet.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I will do the 02s first since they are easier and I'm sure they are original.
So would this pump be a good choice?

http://trefuelpumps.com/i-89328-ford-explorer-1997-2003-255-lph-fuel-pump.html

 

[jd4242]

I will do the 02s first since they are easier and I'm sure they are original.
So would this pump be a good choice?

http://trefuelpumps.com/i-89328-ford-explorer-1997-2003-255-lph-fuel-pump.html

I like them.they are quieter than my walbro and about half the cost.also there is sooo many fake walbros out there you dont really know if its real or not.least with the tre I know where it came from and has a warranty.

 

[Dono]

my tre is still going strong also. No issues.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Awesome, thanks guys. I love the idea of having a drop in upgrade. Is the regulator buried in the tank somewhere or part of the pump assembly? Should i replace that and the float also?

 

[jd4242]

Awesome, thanks guys. I love the idea of having a drop in upgrade. Is the regulator buried in the tank somewhere or part of the pump assembly? Should i replace that and the float also?

I would replace the whole thing personally. I havent replaced one in your year tho so Don maybe can give you some pointers. .

But good to hear Don is running one also and still going strong

 

[Dono]

All I did was the pump. Unless you can find a deal, it will get expensive replacing the whole assembly.

Drop the tank, fight with disconnecting the gas lines, remove assembly.
Then cut the existing fuel pump connector and solder it to the new pump. pretty easy, other than the fuel line fittings.
Some guys cut a hole in their floor and make an access panel rather than drop their tank.
I drop my tank rather than make un necessary holes. As long as the tank is close to empty, its not a big deal.

Id rate this as one of the easier things you will do to your truck. It will be easy for you.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Fixed!!

Ok so after some after more playing around I went with some new o2's and that fixed the erratic air/fuel. The passenger side one had a piece falling from the center hole in the sensor and I could hear things rattling around inside when shook. Ive put 300 miles on it in 2 weeks and not had a single problem with the air/fuel. I figured with cold temps and crappy ohio winter fuel I'd up the timing on the tune and set WOT air/fuel at 13.4. It really runs hard. I am dead even with a friends '06 5.7 cherokee 40-80mph so I think its doing alright. But, I believe my lower intake is leaking coolant into the oil so ill be re- "gasketing" the lower intake soon with the one piece. Since one must pull the valve covers to do this I'll swap in some ARP head studs while I'm there. Thank you Don for providing me with part numbers awhile back. I might cry if i ruin one of those heads with the 100 shot so I think its some good insurance, plus Ill have to get them eventually.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Turbo Time!!

After lots of debating Ive decided turbo is the way to go. The initial cost of nitrous is just about the same. Long term it is not cost effective or convenient, nor am I keen on having bottles take up precious cargo space. I have a lot of respect for the m90 and m112 guys, but don't get me started on them, it's just the wrong direction for me. So turbo it is.

Initial hardware budget was set at $800 or realistically $1200 + infinite man hours + more money. $1400 is what I originally paid for the explorer, so I need to keep it under that. Currently I sit over $1300 lol. Parts list will be updated throughout the project.

Acquired parts so far:
Holset H1C used, from '94 Cummins with rebuild kit and lightly used aftermarket intercooler - $140 craigslist
'03/'04 Cobra maf (90mm) and injectors (39pph) all genuine Ford parts, used, claimed less than 20k miles. Look new. - $232 eBay
TRE 255LPH fuel pump - $78 TRE eBay store http://treperformance.com/i-63668-ford-explorer-255-lph-fuel-pump-1997-2003.html
Bosch BOV used, from a Porsche - $30 eBay
Turbowerx Base Model oil scavenge pump - $267 Turbowerx eBay store http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-VERSION...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ed1dbb58&vxp=mtr
3" flexible charge hose - $117 Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050IK4W6/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
2.75" - 4" 90* Silicone - $16.95 eBay item# 120721216895
2nd gen Explorer power steering cooler - junkyard
lots of Explorer fasteners and radiator rubber mounts - junkyard
Autolite AR103 14mm Spark Plugs (8) - $29.92 eBay item# 400723808580
4" 48" exhaust tubing - $21.97 SummitRacing SUM-640040-1
4" 90* exhaust tube - $21.97 SummitRacing WLK-41256
O2 sensor bung - $1.90 SummitRacing VPE-11105
Pack of 10, 3" t-bolt clamps - $15.99 eBay item# 371037478216
4" silicone coupler - $8.44 eBay item# 261479866521
2.75" to 3" straight silicone (2) - $6.88 each eBay item# 191141733182
3" aluminum pipe joiner (4) - $11.98 each eBay item# 261036332975
4" to 3" Silicone coupler - $7.99 eBay item# 261506451986
3" Stainless v-band rings and clamp - $29.95 Amazon
Gasket set for Turbo exhaust inlet - $12.93 Amazon
Painless Wiring 70103 Circuit fuse-block kit - $62.79 Amazon

Soon to order:
VDO Turbo gauge - $52.38 SummitRacing VDO-150-1212
VDO Oil pressure gauge - $66.33 SummitRacing VDO-A2C53413151
4" t-bolt clamps (pack of 4) - $13.78 eBay item# 291058649828

The turbo is in great shape, the guy claimed less than 150k miles on it. Axial and radial slop were well within spec but I had the rebuild kit and was curious of the guts so I rebuilt it anyway. I seconded guessed my balance marks so the shaft assembly is currently at a diesel shop being balanced, should have it back Mon evening or Tues morn. - $100

So from TB I plan to go:
2.75" to 4" 90deg silicone - straight section of 4" tube - 4" silicone - maf - 4" 90deg pre-bent where airbox is - 4" to 3" silicone - 3" aluminum silicone coupler - flexible 3" hose - 3" to 2.75" -intercooler - 2.75" to 3" - flexible 3" hose - turbo charge side. BOV will be in there somewhere.

Turbo oiling:
Pressure sending unit T fitting - turbo oil inlet - turbo oil outlet - scavenge pump - valve - filter - valve - oil filler neck. Ill have to make the fittings to get oil in and out of the turbo. Oiling is my biggest challenge right now. Not sure where the oil cooler should go if at all. I think oil from the turbo needs to somewhat gravity feed to the pump.

Tuning:
I will eventually tune it myself using 2000StreetRod's EXTREMELY helpful and informative tuning threads. Hopefully the thing runs well enough on my strategy tuning. Initial boost will be as low as I can get it (8psi?), then boost up with head studs until I feel the bottom end is shot. The turbo is a beast and is good for 30+ psi on a 5.9 Cummins.

For vacuum I don't know yet. There are a ton of oem automobile check valves on eBay. Hoping to get some help in this area.

For fuel I could not find much on FPR's. I'm a bit confused. Won't the FPR maintain a specific pressure up to a point? I noticed there is a vacuum line right by the FPR, I need clarification please. Hoping to get some help in this area.

Suggestions and advice are more than welcome. Idk much about this stuff, just what I've read. Please don't tell me the turbo wont work with this engine and the 422 cam. I know the exhaust side is monster and will take time to spool, that's fine with me, I want the turbo dormant unless I nail it.

I currently am taking my last class at school, one night a week and I wont be working until mid-August. With that said I have nothing to do but work on the explorer and tan. So things should move right along as parts arrive. This will be a learning experience for us all. Hope you guys are excited as I am

 

[Dono]

excellent!!
I have no words of wisdom, but am concerned your motor might be very short lived when you nail the throttle with that turbo. Anyway, the tuning decision can be made as you get closer to completion on the build.

Im looking forward to seeing this. I havn't been able to work on my project. To many things going on around home. I am considering taking holidays so I can work on it.

don't worry about oil gravity feed to the pump. Oil pressure will do that for you.
I have my scavenge pump power off a relay keyed by the fuel pump. I used one way flow adapters so the oil wont back up in to the turbo when the motors shut off.

Your going to have to remove your pcv valve system and use breathers or a catch can so you don't pressurize your crank case when you boost.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

don't worry about oil gravity feed to the pump. Oil pressure will do that for you.
I have my scavenge pump power off a relay keyed by the fuel pump. I used one way flow adapters so the oil wont back up in to the turbo when the motors shut off.

Your going to have to remove your pcv valve system and use breathers or a catch can so you don't pressurize your crank case when you boost.

I was wondering about oil drain on the turbo outlet. Once the engine is off everything must stop right? The pump and cooler will be somewhat close in height to the turbo relative to the ground. Does your scavenge pump pull a decent vacuum? I want my oil cooler after the turbo and before the scavenge pump to slow pump wear. I'd like to wire my pump the same as you, sounds solid to me.

Good idea on pcv. I could put breathers on the filler neck and pcv valve location on the valve covers. I think the motor will last. It has to since I drive it everyday out of necessity and fun. Typically I pay it to behave in blood and curse words. Hasn't failed me yet. The bottom end is similar to the SOHC and those guys put down some power. You and others have shown that these engines do NOT agree with high iat's. That variable in my equation wont be so significant.

For initial tuning the plan is to run 93 octane rich say 10.5:1 AFR and pull 2* timing across the board on the stock 87 strategy tune or more depending on ambient air temp. Right now I run 87 octane with 4* added to the 93 strategy tune. Sucker ***** and gets, it likes timing NA and with boost timing jumps will = big hp deltas.

I got the intercooler squeezed in behind the bumper today and picked up the turbo shaft assembly. Ill start making flanges and brackets come Thurs. I'll get some pics together when things are cleaned up.

 

[Dono]

Your moving super fast on your build.
You want the scavenge pump just below the turbo oil drain.
I've read about guys using oil return pumps, doing everything right, and still fighting smoking issues.
Other guys have the pump mounted up high, small drain hoses, no check valves (Basically everything wrong) and have had no smoking issues. Go figure.

I have ran my exa pump and it does work well with the gear drive. Even with air only, it would open my check valve easily. I think the valve needs 2-3 lbs to open. I don't think were looking for a ton of vacuum out of the pump as we don't want to pull oil thru the turbo.

Im hoping that your turbo's boost hits like a ton of bricks when it finally spools up in the higher rpm range. Im really interested in this. There's no reading to be found with someone using a larger turbo like yours on a 4 litre ohv. Once that turbo spools, Im sure the waste gate will be opening right away trying to control the boost.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Your moving super fast on your build.
You want the scavenge pump just below the turbo oil drain.

Im hoping that your turbo's boost hits like a ton of bricks when it finally spools up in the higher rpm range. Im really interested in this. There's no reading to be found with someone using a larger turbo like yours on a 4 litre ohv. Once that turbo spools, Im sure the waste gate will be opening right away trying to control the boost.

Ok I'll get the pump right below the oil drain on the turbo. I have the hot and cold sides still split so I'll clock everything for the oil system. This will make for a very interesting y-pipe to turbo piece. The Turbowerx Exa pump is sweet but out of my price range. I used diaphragm pumps a lot when I was co-oping and they worked very well as far as being able to self prime and pull vacuum. Downfall to these is heat, but Turbowerx claims the Basemodel is designed for it so we shall see.

With the 422 cam and 50 something mm turbo I'm hoping to spool at 3-3.5krpm. And yea I've read these suckers hit all at once. My cousin has a 6.7 cummins 6-speed manual with some work done. The boost is like an on/off switch and man it's cool; that's what I want

Intercooler brackets are made and will be painted and installed tmrw assuming the rain stops. Still on track to make maf plate and turbo flange by weekend.

For the PCV stuff I guess I'll have to make a breather out of a fill cap. I cant find a screw in type breather for the filler neck at a reasonable price. For the other valve cover I'll run a rubber hose down along the trans for more rust prevention. I need a membership pass for the junkyard lol

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Intercooler Mounted

Got the intercooler in its permanent location today. I have more pics if people are curious as to how it fits in the grill. Minor trimming of grill diffusers was required, as well as removal of hood latch assembly and bumper. No holes drilled. Used a 25 ton press to bend the brackets.

And this is how it will look. I could not be happier with the way it turned out.

 

[Dono]

soooo....Did the hood latch fit back in place after?
I didnt think there would be room.

Nice to have something like that press. Great idea how you set it up.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

yes the hood latch assembly went back in. I just had to remove it initially to get in there. Part of the latch assembly mounts to a chunk of fiberglass that's part of the grill. I put a radius on that mount. There is a ton of material there I assume for manufacturing ease. Unless you really know what you're looking at, all appears factory.

What spark plugs do you guys recommend for boost? a step colder right? And also any gap recommendations? I'm about to make a Summit order...