'99 ohv 4.0 cam build | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

yes Im going to get it tuned. Im porting the heads and lower intake myself. Then have the heads milled .030. I have some experience in that area. I was hoping I could get away without dropping $230 on a bbk TB

If your doing a complete build,i would suggest you use first gen piston over having the head milled that much.i assume you milling it to increase compression witch .030 will only take you about a half point where first get pistons will take you a whole point and work better with the 422 cam.i would be very careful with doing port work your self,you can hurt flow if you dont have experience with the 4.0 you can do the half shaft mod on the tb but still wont flow like the bbk
 



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good point. I want to avoid tearing apart the bottom end at all costs. Im going to do a compression test this week to see where Im at. If its bad, which i think its fine, ill rebuild it from the bottom up. And ill prob do the TB halfshaft mod. Just curious, what kind of whp numbers would you expect from a setup like this?
 






good point. I want to avoid tearing apart the bottom end at all costs. Im going to do a compression test this week to see where Im at. If its bad, which i think its fine, ill rebuild it from the bottom up. And ill prob do the TB halfshaft mod. Just curious, what kind of whp numbers would you expect from a setup like this?

So your dropping thousands into the top end and not doing the bottom? If your worried about HP numbers i suggest you dont do anything to the 4.0 and look into a 5.0 swap.you can do all this and more and still be around 200hp with the 4.0
 






I looked up your engine build, you used the sev2027 and sev2028 valves. Those will just drop right in without a valve job right? and since Im decking the heads .030 will that affect my pushrod length? You suggested I go with 5.550 smith bros
 






I looked up your engine build, you used the sev2027 and sev2028 valves. Those will just drop right in without a valve job right? and since Im decking the heads .030 will that affect my pushrod length? You suggested I go with 5.550 smith bros

Valves are direct fit.no i would go with 5.525 my buddy has a set that we put in but took right out.im sure he will cut you a deal too;) PM me if your interested
 












so if i were to use those rods, then I would only want to mill the heads .025 instead of .030? Do you know why he put them in then took them right back out?
 






so if i were to use those rods, then I would only want to mill the heads .025 instead of .030? Do you know why he put them in then took them right back out?

There is a certain amount of cushion room in your measurements, you want to fall as close to the middle of the lifter spec as possible. Those would work fine with the .030 you plan on shaving.but ill tell you the same thing your machinist should tell you,you will run into problems of the ports lining up when shaving that much.that much is towards the max of the spec limits for shaving heads.i had my ports port matched and ported and polished but required the block to be there and a used set of bolts and gaskets.a member dono just shaved his heads this much and ran into a problem of them not lining up and had his lower intake machined to fit lower down.we changed them up because they where a hair to short for his used lifters,he went to 5.550
 






I can see how that would be a problem. The heads would sit too low for the intake after having them shaved. I may just have the the heads decked to ensure that they are straight. Sounds like it is not worth the trouble of port matching to gain half a point of compression.
 






I can see how that would be a problem. The heads would sit too low for the intake after having them shaved. I may just have the the heads decked to ensure that they are straight. Sounds like it is not worth the trouble of port matching to gain half a point of compression.

Its not.if you were higher up to begin with than yes. .030 is still within spec though dont take it that im saying it cant be done and the lower intake gasket should compression a little extra so ports wont be very far off but you gota ask yourself is it worth it?
 






excellent point. Thats exactly what I was thinking. Thanks for asking your dude about the pushrods. Ill talk this over with my dad and decide from there
 






The tolerances on the set of sites valves I purchased were not great. The valves needed machining to seal properly. No biggie, as these valves are extremely inexpensive for what you get. I'd have the valve seats and valves matched at a machine shop with a vacuum tester. It's a lot of time and money to do the job a second time.
 






The tolerances on the set of sites valves I purchased were not great. The valves needed machining to seal properly. No biggie, as these valves are extremely inexpensive for what you get. I'd have the valve seats and valves matched at a machine shop with a vacuum tester. It's a lot of time and money to do the job a second time.

I would blame it on your heads;p mine were point on but yes i assumed he would have a valve job or they would seat them when they fit the springs
 






I would blame it on your heads;p mine were point on but yes i assumed he would have a valve job or they would seat them when they fit the springs

Tough to know. Could even be the machine shop not being completely on the up and up.

Just make sure the bales are sealing before you end up some ending the time and money on gaskets to do the job again
 






Ive decided to not go with shaving the heads. Im in the process of ordering parts, does anyone know the specs besides the length (5.550) of the pushrods I need?
 






Search on here the part number is around. Or search xeeks thread i know he has the part number or just call them they will know what you need as long as you know lengths
 






gaskets?

does anyone know of a good gasket set?
 






Ive gone with Fel-Pro permadry plus, and on the last go round, I tried Victor Reinz. up to you really. Both have worked well for me.

Some say to use the factory Ford lower intake gasket. The ford gasket is a one piece, and with gasket surface on the bottom, you might not get a good seal on the sides.
 






exhaust diameter

so Ive began the painful process of ordering parts, I called Borla and they recommend I run their turbo xl 19" in length and 2.25" in diameter. does anyone have any opinions for exhaust diameter?
 



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Ive seen recomendations of stock inlet, and on the outlet side going 1/2 inch larger than what you have. Then running new pipe to the back, of course.

Let me know how you make out on the Borla. I might be interested in going the route you are going on exhaust.

I had a cat back system from them on a Toyota 4-runner in the past, and there is no question that on that truck it free'd up quite a bit of power. Sounded great also.
 






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