'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

[Dono]

Sounds like you have it all nailed.

No one has ever had an issue with the warepump running slower, but sometimes an alternator overdrive pully is used to speed up the alternator.

Tuning, if your changing maf, or injectors, you need the wideband o2. You con get away without it for what your doing. Most accurate tune is with the wideband though.

Cost/performance increase of the sct is worth it after you have made mods to get the rest of the power out of them

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I appreciate the honesty, I want it done right so as of now ill go with the wideband. So waterpump is cool with the underdrive then, Im mostly concerned with my 95 amp alt. I have a kicker 1000.1 that I use occasionally only when Im running at a contant 2k rpm or higher. I did the big three upgrade with 0gauge but that amp still really pulls on my alt at low rpm. Ill most likely throw a 130 amp off a newer explorer on there while its apart, that should take of my voltage drops and any problems associated with the underdrive pulley if I go with that. I was wondering, would I benefit power-wise from larger injectors with this mild top end build if I went new MAF and wideband? or is that only needed for FI? sorry for all the questions

 

[Dono]

I have no idea on the injectors.

Maybe email James Henson at Henson Performance and ask him the question on the injectors. I guess it all comes down to if you are running lean at WOT after the upgrades, and the tune has maxed the injectors out. James may have experience with tuning a 4.0 ohv with the mods you plan, and be able to tell you if the injectors maxed out on him.

Now, if your doing the full tune, 24lb injectors wouldn't hurt anything except your pocket book. Stock injectors are 19lb. I think the 4 hole mustang injectors can be had for a reasonable price on ebay. Id get more info from someone that hopefully knows for sure before possibly wasting the cash though.

Sorry for being vague, but I don't want to lead you down the garden path by not really knowing for sure.

 

[a-ford-able-help]

cam overhaul reasoning ?

Is it due to knocking or tapping that has gotten worse ? I just got done (same engine ) with what I thought was to be a cam rebuild. All the signs engine wise (and threads) were confirming it. When I first took the engine apart I first noticed a couple of very worn push rods believing the cam was warn because it had abit of brown tarnish on it where the roller lifters did not touch. I was just about to commit to the job when I took off the timing cover I expected to see some excessive wear there, but to my suprise it was tight & clean and no in or out cam or crank shaft play. I studied the problem for a few days. I even priced a short block verses the replacement parts. Finally I realized the worn push rods (very in cyl. 3 and alittle less in #2 ) by the way I have 132 K on the engine and am **** about maintance since I bought it w/ 70 K. I look at the rocker arms under magnification and saw they were badly warn on those same cylinders. Now I'm thinking the lifter for those cylinders look good, just like the rest. I noticed that the cylinder head of #3 had a differant combustion pattern then the rest, more of a sooty looking black apperance then I took a close look at the piston heads. Again Cyl. #3 had an oblong dry looking pattern . That's when the light went on. Due to the worn pushrods & arms the valves could not be opening & closing at the correct time. Shortened opening time for both those valves ment the exhaust valve was closed or closing to early and thats not good because the combustion gases have no place to go, with atleast some of the combustion happening in a sealed area. Sort of like having a firecracker going off in a closed hand, except it is happening thousands or hundreds of thousands of times. Then I studied the head for damage figuring that would future confirm my theory. Sure enough cyl. 3 head had a crack in it from the stress. Looking in the intake & exhaust ports on the heads, the only valve stems showng leakage were on cyl. 3 , again due to excessive combustion pressure. New push rods & remachined heads and she runs beautiful. I did check compression and oil pressure before the dismantling , both were fine. The only thing was cyl. 3 was a few lbs. less then the rest. (4 - 5) . That was due to the shortened valve opening time. ( not the same volume of air to compress) Do you home work. Hope that helps

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

ok Ill do some research on injectors. I should not have any problems with wear, as I have new pushrods on the way and already have new rockers. Im going to get my cylinder heads bathed and checked for cracks before I do any porting and polishing. Also Im going with SI valves so my valvetrain should be able to handle the stress of the cam and heavy springs.

 

[jd4242]

ok Ill do some research on injectors. I should not have any problems with wear, as I have new pushrods on the way and already have new rockers. Im going to get my cylinder heads bathed and checked for cracks before I do any porting and polishing. Also Im going with SI valves so my valvetrain should be able to handle the stress of the cam and heavy springs.

Stock injectors are fine.underdrive is the BEST bolt on you can do.its been tested again and again and has shown gains.i just sold mine and he said he felt a difference in power and gained 3-5 mpg!! Yes you need the underdrive for the alt,water pump should be fine unless your in the desert. All these mods can be ran without a tune,tune would just make it run better,ive been running untuned for years on my motor.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

alright I figured the stock injectors would be enough. Do you know of any reasonably priced underdrive pulley kits?

 

[jd4242]

alright I figured the stock injectors would be enough. Do you know of any reasonably priced underdrive pulley kits?

Nope and only one company makes the under drive for the crank,thats all you need from them.get the alt pulley on ebay.

 

[phix-]

alright I figured the stock injectors would be enough. Do you know of any reasonably priced underdrive pulley kits?

Stock injectors w/ underdrive pulley and od pulley for alternator = ok
Forced induction = not ok

Injectors, you can pick up 42lbs all day on ebay or craigslist just understand you may have to buy 8 (as I believe only some ebay sellers sell in qty: 6). Underdrive is going to be the same unless you score a whole kit that has the ASP underdrive pulley, water pump pulley, and alternator pulley. Sadly you cannot just buy the water pump pulley and alternator pulley anymore as the only place that made/carried them (from my knowledge) was Wayne from underdogperformance.com and he has since closed up shop. Maybe a year ago, there was a post on this forum saying he was liquidating all of his inventory and I picked up a $34 pulley for $10. To completely honest, I miss my UDP setup, my friend has it on his off-road explorer now and loves it. Saw an average of 14mpg city go to 18mpg and in the 20's on the hwy.

 

[phix-]

then again.. anyone who daily's a blown xploader will tell you there is truly nothing like it. I was hooked on the first rev and dyno session.

 

[jd4242]

Stock injectors w/ underdrive pulley and od pulley for alternator = ok
Forced induction = not ok

Injectors, you can pick up 42lbs all day on ebay or craigslist just understand you may have to buy 8 (as I believe only some ebay sellers sell in qty: 6). Underdrive is going to be the same unless you score a whole kit that has the ASP underdrive pulley, water pump pulley, and alternator pulley. Sadly you cannot just buy the water pump pulley and alternator pulley anymore as the only place that made/carried them (from my knowledge) was Wayne from underdogperformance.com and he has since closed up shop. Maybe a year ago, there was a post on this forum saying he was liquidating all of his inventory and I picked up a $34 pulley for $10. To completely honest, I miss my UDP setup, my friend has it on his off-road explorer now and loves it. Saw an average of 14mpg city go to 18mpg and in the 20's on the hwy.

He is not going FI.you can get the crank pulley from summit and the alt from ebay.

 

[phix-]

He is not going FI.you can get the crank pulley from summit and the alt from ebay.

Ah, well he better by the $7 bolt from ford when he does the UDP. remember it is a TTY bolt (torque to yield) and also make sure you buy a new oil slinger and main seal. If you figure you'll do it later, you won't and mucking with it will definitely cause a small leak.

 

[jd4242]

ah, well he better by the $7 bolt from ford when he does the udp. Remember it is a tty bolt (torque to yield) and also make sure you buy a new oil slinger and main seal. If you figure you'll do it later, you won't and mucking with it will definitely cause a small leak.

x2

 

[Xeek]

x3 on the crank bolt hahaaha

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Im not seeing any underdrive pulleys for the 4.0 ohv on Summit. Ill get that crank bolt from Ford. Does anyone know of any other little things that I will need? Any cam related parts? Im getting new timing cover and water pump gaskets. Also Summit has several 180 degree thermostats, does anyone have any recommendations? I was thinking maybe the JET Performance 10142

 

[jd4242]

Im not seeing any underdrive pulleys for the 4.0 ohv on Summit. Ill get that crank bolt from Ford. Does anyone know of any other little things that I will need? Any cam related parts? Im getting new timing cover and water pump gaskets. Also Summit has several 180 degree thermostats, does anyone have any recommendations? I was thinking maybe the JET Performance 10142

your need new chain and guides if you didnt get them.
summit link for udp,the udp fit the explorer 4.o ohv and sohc and a mustang 4.0 sohc
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ASP-526400

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

There seem to be several chain guides. Are there certain ones that I will definitely need? and that asp piece is darn pricey, are the gains in your opinion worth it? but hey its just money right

 

[jd4242]

There seem to be several chain guides. Are there certain ones that I will definitely need? and that asp piece is darn pricey, are the gains in your opinion worth it? but hey its just money right

the guides all come in a kit.yep it is pricy thats why i couldnt believe noone jump all over mine when i was selling it for $200.the guy i sold mine to is getting avg 4mpg better so.2mpg increase=38 extra miles per tank.depending on your mpg thats big.lets just say you get 20mpg,thats all most 2gallons per fill up.if your like me,fill up every 2 weeks,thats 4 gallons a month saved.gas at $4 a gallon thats $16 per month but $192 a year or if you get 4mpg better that $384 a year but all depends on driving and mileage a year,its not really about the hp it releases it more to make up mpg that your lose for getting on it all the time because of the hp gained

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

sohc pistons?

almost all my parts are in, man that Borla muffler is beautiful and I can hardly wait to get it on there. But Ive been reading around and Im starting to get curious about what another point of compression can do for power, not to mention I have never had the experience of tearing apart the bottom end of a motor. How involved is the sohc piston swap? Will they just drop right in with new rings and some block honing?

 

[jd4242]

almost all my parts are in, man that Borla muffler is beautiful and I can hardly wait to get it on there. But Ive been reading around and Im starting to get curious about what another point of compression can do for power, not to mention I have never had the experience of tearing apart the bottom end of a motor. How involved is the sohc piston swap? Will they just drop right in with new rings and some block honing?

Sohc piston will take you way to high with your heads.if you want to increase compression use first gen pistons,that will take you to 10:1