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Barack Obama linked 2nd gen. SAS

i would say a box problem...if it was the belt, it would effect both directions (Burns clarified this)...if it was the pump it would do the same thinf in both directions...maybe you picke the yota box up for too cheap..lol...So get in ur lime green ex-prison van, go to the parts store and get a re-manufactured one...its pretty cheap....
 



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If it was the belt wouldnt it be weak both ways and not just to the left?
I thought about this but then I thought that fluid flows only in one direction so it could be possible that during left turns, the steering pump is under more stress than making right turns. BUt i have very little knowledge about steering gear boxes. Part of me actually hopes its the stupid steering gear box so I can either rebuild it and learn how it works or just swap the entire thing over to full hydro steering.

Another thought that came to mind is that the gearbox could be leaking internally to itself -- or at least part of the fluid is bypassing where its supposed to go.

...maybe you picke the yota box up for too cheap..lol...So get in ur lime green ex-prison van, go to the parts store and get a re-manufactured one...its pretty cheap....
LOL yeah you could be right. But they hover around $300 for a remanufactured box. At that point, I'd rather rebuild it and maybe tap it for hydro-assist.

The other thing is that a few nights before the vehicle rolled again after the SAS, it was too dark and I accidentally grabbed the bottle of brake fluid instead of the power steering fluid. Anyways, a few days later, the brake fluid ate through the seals on the pump and it leaked. I replaced the pump (and the fluid) but not the steering box. So this is one more reason to believe that the box is the culprit.
 






I think I would take the box apart. I just dont see the pump being the prob. I have had my system apart a few times (does not mean im a expert or anything) and from what i can tell that if the pump works then its not the pump. Since you can turn right without probs it just screams that the steering box is the prob.



I put brake fluid in mine to stop the front seal in my box from leaking as bad.
 






....... I accidentally grabbed the bottle of brake fluid instead of the power steering fluid. Anyways, a few days later, the brake fluid ate through the seals on the pump and it leaked. I replaced the pump (and the fluid) but not the steering box. So this is one more reason to believe that the box is the culprit.

duh:eek:
 






I too think its the box. Every time ive had a pump go out it was hard to turn or made noise in both directions. FYI if you want to have it rebuilt www.westtexasoffroad.com is about the best out there and they arent very expensive either. I had an early Bronco box rebuilt there a few years back for around $100.

What is the best way to get rid of the cwedges or what ever they are called that the stock radius arms bolt around.
If it has the weld-on wedges like the early Bronco or 77-earlier F150 then the best way to get them off is with a cutoff wheel on a 4-4.5" grinder. They are only welded at the top and bottom, not down the sides. Just make sure to cut at an angle and try to stay out of the axle tube. The weld is a ginormous 1970's disco stick weld, so it will take a while. :p: Once you've got it you can knock them off with a hammer and grind what is left on the axle tube down clean.

If its a 78-79 F150/Bronco housing then you're stuck with the cast wedges.
 












So looks like its decided that its the steering gear box.

Time to look for a rebuild/seal kit.
 






Okay so for anyone (or anything -- like Marsian) following this dreaded thread in the future:

Apparently you do not put power steering fluid in Toyota steering boxes, you put Dexron-II (or higher like Dexron III) -- found a few threads on PBB stating this. Example: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6264006&postcount=27

And for anyone in need of a Toyota box rebuild instruction, click on the link below and save the PDF somewhere on your computer! http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/steering/13gearh.pdf
 






thats interesting stuff...my buddy buys 2 or three CASES of ATF at a time b/c the farm tractors hes got use it in the leaking steering...if yo put a quart in ur engine then chang the oil it breakes down the sludge because its a great deturgent...
 






I found your next mod...

:D
EDIT: finally figured it out:rolleyes:
 

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dead link?
 






Well looks like I wont be doing a 4-link this summer -- I just wont have the time with the other things I have planned for the summer.

For now I'm going to just focus on a full hydro steer, beadlocks and some other minor doodads.
The hydro steer has to be finished in a month before the All-Ford-Nationals run 'cauz the current Toyota-IFS steering box is feeling ill.

I already have the steering valve, I just need the hydraulic cylinder, the "steering wheel column" (that connects the steering wheel to the valve), and plumbing.

Currently, this is what I have planned for the hydraulic cylinder: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007042612022187&item=9-6845&catname=hydraulic
p9-6688C.jpg

Its double ended and I will be running some sort of a heim on each end.

Section525 has started a great thread about hydro steer. Even though its more for assisted systems, it still has plenty of valuable info.
 






Well looks like I wont be doing a 4-link this summer -- I just wont have the time with the other things I have going on.

For now I'm going to just focus on a full hydro steer, beadlocks and some other minor doodads.
The hydro steer has to be finished in a month before the All-Ford-Nationals run 'cauz the current Toyota-IFS steering box is feeling ill.

Iz what size wheel you running?
 












Nevermind I was going to tell you i have a set of weld in bead locks for 15"
wheels, but I think i might be needing them.
 






Nevermind I was going to tell you i have a set of weld in bead locks for 15"
wheels, but I think i might be needing them.
Oh gee thanks :p:.

But I might get mine cut with something like "Obama" or "WTF" on the side -- just for the bling effect.
 












May i have a little run down on the maintance of the air shocks?


This is the idea for the summer.
 






May i have a little run down on the maintance of the air shocks?
Sure sure.

I started this thread about half a year ago on how to break a shock down:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1681850

I try to keep them as clean as possible. Avoid spilling brake fluid on the shaft or else the brake fluid will eat up the seals. Also ensure the schrader valves are clean cauz you dont want dirt getting into the shock next time you fill it up with Nitrogen. A valve cap made for tires (tire valves are schrader valves) is of course what you would use to cap the valve and prevent dirt from getting in there.

Filling them up with Nitrogen occurs about every 4 months-ish. The fillup process is no biggy - you just have to extend the shock fully (flex the vehicle) and fill it up. Nitrogen costs I think like $30-ish for a small tank? And such a tank lasts about a year (I'm still on my first one but its almost time to exchange it for a new one).
 



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Since I bought the TSL-SXs used, two of them were worn and a few weeks ago, I finally replaced two of them .. with some Creepy Crawlers :D

creepy_crawlers.jpg
 






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