Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread | Page 28 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

Ditto, I always like the steel coolant lines, and those look like new. Good work Jon.

That may be something which can be built for other engines, other than the special swivel fitting at the intake. I hope I can do something with the Clevor engine I plan on a year or so out, since the Cleveland intake has no water passages. The old engines with rubber hoses running end to end don't look so good, and they blow much more often, due to the rubber laying on the hot intake constantly.
 



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Thanks. I pulled the tubes off and saw rust. It needed attention.
I took the oil pan off and was amazed how clean it was in there. [MENTION=33850]techieman33[/MENTION] really did take care of this motor

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Ok, out with some old stuff

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Good quality replacements

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All water pump and timing cover bolts came out clean. That never happens. :D
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I would 'guess' all that needs to be done on the oil low sending unit issue is to stick an ohms meter on the unplugged sensor and check the resistance. Then you will know if the reading is infinite, shorted, or somewhere in the middle.

If the reading is infinite, just unplug the sensor connector and leave it.
If its close to 0, take a piece of wire and short the 2 wires on the harness together.
If its a weird value, pick up a resistor of that value and go across the 2 wires at the connector.

Id find it hard to believe we are dealing with a sine wave or anything like that for this simple sensor.
 












New timing chain is in, new oil pump and pickup installed. Clear coat is curing (baking) on the oil pan and timing cover. What a day.
 






Motor swap party date set yet?
 






Motor swap party date set yet?

Gmanpaint and I had an after hours executive session where Labor Day weekend was discussed.

More pics for today

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I like those, what color of gray is that? It's just about right, I'm thinking of it for my oil pan and timing cover, to match the odd color(pewter maybe) I used for my trans and TC.
 

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Jon, why don't have an oil cooler since you have been through so many parts, by now I thought you would have one on there?
 






I like those, what color of gray is that? It's just about right, I'm thinking of it for my oil pan and timing cover, to match the odd color(pewter maybe) I used for my trans and TC.

Yeah, I knew the flash picture would kill it.

I used what they call chrome powder. I does look awesome until you clear coat it. And it requires clear. It still comes out real bright but it is not close to chrome. Here is a picture in sunlight.

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I have an idea for the valve covers which will show where the chrome powder does have a good use. But they will not be silver.

Edit

Look at all those funny wrinkles in the oil pan bends
 






Yeah, I knew the flash picture would kill it.

I used what they call chrome powder. I does look awesome until you clear coat it. And it requires clear. It still comes out real bright but it is not close to chrome. Here is a picture in sunlight.

003_zpsf8dae4ac.jpg


I have an idea for the valve covers which will show where the chrome powder does have a good use. But they will not be silver.

Edit

Look at all those funny wrinkles in the oil pan bends
Okay, so that might be what you did my two intakes with? It's a nearly chrome, but seems like a little silver was added, color. If that's the same thing I'd prefer something closer to the OEM engine gray, not a dark color but nearly a medium gray. That will work well for the block etc, and it contrasts well against blacks and the dark grays.
 






Where's the Earth Shattering Green?

It needs some burns green on there somewhere...

~Mark
 






I have an idea for the valve covers which will show where the chrome powder does have a good use. But they will not be silver.

Transparent blue over chrome powder

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Casper Clear (10%gloss) , or what I call flat clear over transparent blue = looks like anodized

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Wow!! The wonders of powder coat! Looks great!
 
























From another thread:


[Quote mounty71]

Just wanted to update this. I think my seal was fine, it looked to be in perfect condition still, although I still replaced it to be sure. The leak was most likely coming from me using thread locker on the flex plate bolts instead of thread sealer. I didn't realize the threaded holes in the crankshaft pass all the way through to the crankcase. That would explain why it was leaking so much worse than when the original seal was leaking. I pray that that was indeed the cause for the leak. No way in hell I'm taking this transmission out again until it needs a replacement.[/QUOTE]


Just popping in to ask for clarification.I just replaced a ( perfectly good) main seal and am wanting to button up. The only reason I replaced it is the engine is out of the truck.
After removing the flex plate from a stock engine here I saw nothing on the flex plate bolts. No sealer or thread locker. Are you sure these holes are through holes and not dead ended?

Edit. The flywheel boltholes are not through holes. I will use blue loc tite
 






The crank bolts don't hit any liquid, but they should get a drop of red loctite. They are tight so they shouldn't become loose.

Maybe he was speaking of the 4.0, but I'd bet they don't go through either. Chances are his new rear seal leaked. Put a smear coating of RTV on the front and rear seals when setting them in place, to seal them to the engine. Putting them in dry may be how they should work and not leak, but we all know how much we hate a leak between the engine and trans.
 



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Thanks!. None of the blues on my engine will match but it is what it is.



Too hot for any more updates today. Back at it in the AM.

The big heat just reached us here, we've been lucky for most of this Summer, to be just in the 80's. The 90's are supposed to hit again starting today.

You do have AC in that garage right?
 






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