Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

[Turdle]

Well, it took 6 good tugs , cinch slipped 5 times but Betty got er done.

Who won?

 

[CDW6212R]

That's good fun there, find any old trees that need to come out, have a tug of war.

I bet the old Turdle with a straight path would pull it in one try, strapped around the rear end, with good traction. But like you said, it slipped at the stump, and I bet the path wasn't open and long. You had a good time though, that was a fun chore.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

new name,

stumpy

 

[rigbyrigz]

Hi I love this thread. My tale (of woe) is long I may finish it and post it next post. For now, for my very own 5.0L 2000 Mercury Mountaineer I adore, at 200K miles, I got 10 years ago, I am greatly in need of authoritative word on the MAF and IAT issue. That being, is the IAT on this model (year) 100%-always-part-of </>built-in to the MAF?

I'm not mechanical, but I have driveway helpers. Basically, rough driving and frequent P0171 and P0174 codes influenced me to get another MAF - $25 (new, just the sensor no housing or assembly) that matched the pn spec and what the current one looks like - and have them replace it. Checked for air leaks, tears, loose, etc. of course first. Replacement (with proper unscrew bits) went smoothly.

The P0171 and P0174 codes went away (may take several trips and miles of course for historical fuel trim numbers to make them reappear if "pending") and seemed a bit improved, but soon a P0112 (IAT or related wiring) popped up. Checked for loose wire harness and other things, and actually went so far as to order an IAT part (specc'ed) from Advance.

On the way to town, it held back at 20mph when I accelerated for a bit, but then freed up. Some normal driving but twice at 50 as I was giving it gas it dropped to 40. When I started it after a stop, it sputtered, and after a few feet, seemed to lurch and stall, so I stopped. After some rest, it actually bucked and sat there shaking. I disconnected the MAF and it was then OK. Sent the new MAF back to the retailer, and re-installed the old one. I am back to somewhat rough driving at times and frequent P0171 and P0174. (last year replaced O2 sensor and fuel filter.)

While thinking about the MAF issue, I looked for the IAT, and "we/none of US" could find it (on intake tube or near manifold, etc.) I won't mention the genuine IAT Intake-Air-Temperature-sensor part I finally ordered from Advance (1 of 2 - the other is a Manifold Intake Air Sensor) has an etched part number on it that corresponds to "MAP - Manifold Air Pressure" sensors. I also won't mention that the ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (sender?) is often called IAT in the gads of write-ups online.

Neighbor "experts" that said "nahh it aint IN the MAF" were perplexed they found no place FOR the IAT (i bought) or the (old/current) IAT itself. Lotsa other stuff of course seemed possible (as IAT) but "Nahh" on all checked. The current(old) MAF seems to have a little window-opening with a fuse-like prong that some say yeah that must be the IAT (not the sensor of course, to the outside right.) Maybe yes?

Not sure if the returned MAF (after the bucking/stall) had that same window, I think yes. I NOW wanna buy another MAF, to spec, and under $30 if feasible. Ford genuine and name brands get ya up to $300 or so. But no one seems to say OEM and third-party MAFs tend to be crap. I want the right one for my vehicle (in its current state) of course.

Yeah, if there is an IAT problem and IF there is a separate IAT connection location we can find, and find the right sensor to install, I want to that as well, eventually. But I'm insanely perplexed as to if any MAF to spec I buy ($30 or $300) will (always?) have the IAT built-in for my model? If yes, of course I don't need(want?) another separate IAT. If no, how do I get the right MAF and figure this all out without more migraines? THANKS!

 

[Turdle]

Hi I love this thread. My tale (of woe) is long I may finish it and post it next post. For now, for my very own 5.0L 2000 Mercury Mountaineer I adore, at 200K miles, I got 10 years ago, I am greatly in need of authoritative word on the MAF and IAT issue. That being, is the IAT on this model (year) 100%-always-part-of </>built-in to the MAF?

I'm not mechanical, but I have driveway helpers. Basically, rough driving and frequent P0171 and P0174 codes influenced me to get another MAF - $25 (new, just the sensor no housing or assembly) that matched the pn spec and what the current one looks like - and have them replace it. Checked for air leaks, tears, loose, etc. of course first. Replacement (with proper unscrew bits) went smoothly.

The P0171 and P0174 codes went away (may take several trips and miles of course for historical fuel trim numbers to make them reappear if "pending") and seemed a bit improved, but soon a P0112 (IAT or related wiring) popped up. Checked for loose wire harness and other things, and actually went so far as to order an IAT part (specc'ed) from Advance.

On the way to town, it held back at 20mph when I accelerated for a bit, but then freed up. Some normal driving but twice at 50 as I was giving it gas it dropped to 40. When I started it after a stop, it sputtered, and after a few feet, seemed to lurch and stall, so I stopped. After some rest, it actually bucked and sat there shaking. I disconnected the MAF and it was then OK. Sent the new MAF back to the retailer, and re-installed the old one. I am back to somewhat rough driving at times and frequent P0171 and P0174. (last year replaced O2 sensor and fuel filter.)

While thinking about the MAF issue, I looked for the IAT, and "we/none of US" could find it (on intake tube or near manifold, etc.) I won't mention the genuine IAT Intake-Air-Temperature-sensor part I finally ordered from Advance (1 of 2 - the other is a Manifold Intake Air Sensor) has an etched part number on it that corresponds to "MAP - Manifold Air Pressure" sensors. I also won't mention that the ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (sender?) is often called IAT in the gads of write-ups online.

Neighbor "experts" that said "nahh it aint IN the MAF" were perplexed they found no place FOR the IAT (i bought) or the (old/current) IAT itself. Lotsa other stuff of course seemed possible (as IAT) but "Nahh" on all checked. The current(old) MAF seems to have a little window-opening with a fuse-like prong that some say yeah that must be the IAT (not the sensor of course, to the outside right.) Maybe yes?

Not sure if the returned MAF (after the bucking/stall) had that same window, I think yes. I NOW wanna buy another MAF, to spec, and under $30 if feasible. Ford genuine and name brands get ya up to $300 or so. But no one seems to say OEM and third-party MAFs tend to be crap. I want the right one for my vehicle (in its current state) of course.

Yeah, if there is an IAT problem and IF there is a separate IAT connection location we can find, and find the right sensor to install, I want to that as well, eventually. But I'm insanely perplexed as to if any MAF to spec I buy ($30 or $300) will (always?) have the IAT built-in for my model? If yes, of course I don't need(want?) another separate IAT. If no, how do I get the right MAF and figure this all out without more migraines? THANKS!

Dang. I missed this post but by now I hope you started a new thread for this issue. I'm going to suggest you have a leak in the intke system upstream from the maf. Manifold gasket or leaking egr tube, or even a cracked exhaust manifold might do this.

Guess I need to check for your thread---


Back to Betty. She's too fat for 750lb springs. Next step up is 800, 50lbs difference in rate doesn't seem like enough, would have gotten 850 if they were available but no. So, we have a new set of 900's to throw on once the temps chill out a little bit. Right now I have been working on getting a louvered 30" 1/2 hp ( 5800cfm) wall fan in place of garage attic window with a 30x30" louver in opposite window. Attic temps have been hitting 150 degrees and that just makes the garage too hot.

 

[Rick]

I need to do a big wall fan as well. The air from the swamp cooler needs to be evacuated or the garage becomes... a swamp. When it's not 110+ as it's been, I can leave an overhead door open about two feet and it allows the damp air to mix with dry outside air, but when it's this hot, opening the door even a little makes it so hot the swamp cooler won't work.

 

[Turdle]

I need to do a big wall fan as well. The air from the swamp cooler needs to be evacuated or the garage becomes... a swamp. When it's not 110+ as it's been, I can leave an overhead door open about two feet and it allows the damp air to mix with dry outside air, but when it's this hot, opening the door even a little makes it so hot the swamp cooler won't work.

What we put up with to get out of there and not put up with em.

 

[Rick]

What we put up with to get out of there and not put up with em.

Oh, it's even worse... I don't think I told you that my father in law moved in with us in May.

 

[gmanpaint]

Are you getting coil bind with the 750# ? 50# increase is a lot. 150# more is astronomical.

A wall fan would be nice. I just open the doors on opposite sides, and crank a shop fan. I did add a roof vent to let the hot air out, so that helped ton. 1 750 box vent, or 1 turbine vent every 400 sf is suggested. For those with a gable sloped roof, A full length ridge vent is the absolute best tho.

 

[Turdle]

Are you getting coil bind with the 750# ? 50# increase is a lot. 150# more is astronomical.

A wall fan would be nice. I just open the doors on opposite sides, and crank a shop fan. I did add a roof vent to let the hot air out, so that helped ton. 1 750 box vent, or 1 turbine vent every 400 sf is suggested. For those with a gable sloped roof, A full length ridge vent is the absolute best tho.

I seem to be running out of threads to adjust ride height. The coils are sagged I think. Hopefully the 900s won't ride too bad.

My ridge vent might be helping but I need moar. You guys are gonna like this.

How to get a 70 lb box , 40" x 40" x 18 " into attic when your by yourself. Having a bad spine makes you think

 

[Turdle]

The instructions say "30 1/8" x 30 1/8" opening required. Which I delivered dead on knowing it was going to be a giant vibrator.

Why did they make it 30 3/16" tall? Muther beetch. I'm this close before I almost burned up

BFH was no help

 

[Turdle]

oh yeah

 

[traveler]

Umm.... are you exchanging those coils are are you collecting sets?

 

[Turdle]

Umm.... are you exchanging those coils are are you collecting sets?

Well,
Gman gave em to me so if he says ok you want em?

 

[gmanpaint]

LOL, I don't care. If they find a new home, that's awesome to me.

 

[Turdle]

One of these things is not like the other,

Um, Mike, you prolly don't want these coils.

 

[Turdle]

With 900lb coils There are way less threads showing above adjuster nuts, about 7 showing on driver side about 4-5 on passenger side.
Ride is good, not harsh or stiff.

 

[gmanpaint]

Curious to see how much they settle for being 900#.

Brand new 12" x 750# coils sit that high on the shocks, but will compress at least an inch when setting them for lift. I'm sure those 900# won't settle as much, but they will settle some.

I normally have to break new coils in, and reset them a couple more times, before I take it in for an alignment. some good hard back and forth under speed on a side street, making the nose dive a little each time, some hard braking, and accelerations, will help speed up the settling. Do that a few times a day, for a few days. Reset, repeat it all again. Sucks having to pay for multiple alignments.

 

[Turdle]

@gmanpaint Yeah, I was thinking that's how it should be but on the driver side the rings were down way over 2" , I was afraid the spring was gonna block out under full droop loads. It just kept sinking.

For current adjustment I hopped the curb several times, readjusted and hopped curb again. 4 rounds of that then a country drive, then back home and the height stayed good.

I figure if I can maintain the baseline ride height at the lower control arm front bolt , my alignment should be good.

 

[Turdle]

With added weight of front bumper and winch, the 900 lb springs have settled in good