Cam position sensor questions... | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Cam position sensor questions...

there are 4 02 sensors, two upstream and two downstream... somebody who just replaced two blindly hoping to solve an issue doesnt have any idea how to read the code
02 sensors are expensive! Too expensive to just replace... also 3 of them, well they are VERY DIFFICULT to access on the 5.0L explorer...so labor is an issue.....

02 sensor codes dont mean go buy new 02 sensors, you need to get the actual code instead of throwing $300 worth of parts and labor at it
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





02 sensor codes dont mean go buy new 02 sensors, you need to get the actual code instead of throwing $300 worth of parts and labor at it
X2
 






Roger that!

02 sensor codes dont mean go buy new 02 sensors, you need to get the actual code instead of throwing $300 worth of parts and labor at it

02 sensor codes dont mean go buy new 02 sensors, you need to get the actual code instead of throwing $300 worth of parts and labor at it
X2

Roger that! Just drove from northern Kentucky to Washington, D.C. Truck performed well, though gas milage was poor -- I brought a fuel filter with me, so I'll do that next. I've got a code reader ordered. When I get back from DC I'll do the Cam Synch assembly and then I'll tackle the O2 sensors.

Thanks for all the feedback!!
 






I don't remember him saying the actual, code. He suggested there might be four O2 sensors, and that it is rare those before the catalytic go bad so he would replace the two after and then wait and see if they are "talking" to the two before.

He didn't have time to do more than plug his computer in. He said the CPS was behind the engine so he hadn't seen it. He could get to me in a week or so.

Since I already knew the sensor was on top of the engine, near the front, I picked up a CPS on the way home, (transmission didn't miss a single shift). Figured for thirty bucks I'd just replace the sensor myself. Ah, the magnet is shreaded and the fin is mushed.

Sorry for the necro-bump, but I was wondering if replacing the CPS and/or syncronizer fixed your trans problems? I'm having the exact issue with my '97 5.0.
I've had the X for a month without a problem drivability wise, but I've always had codes for the CPS, EGR (leak), and a P1401. Transmission never missed a beat. Occasionally, I would get a bit of engine hesitation when cold which always cleared up once warm. I attributed that to the P0340 code. A few days ago, the transmission didn't want to shift under normal throttle. Every gear was the same. If I let off the gas it would shift to the next gear, and it would always downshift under heavy throttle or back to first at a stop. I pulled the codes, and to my relief there was nothing new. Fluid looks fine on the stick, and doesn't look or smell burnt (though I plan on replacing it in the near future). Fear of doing more damage and my utter dislike of automatic transmissions and the potential problems they come with has kept me from driving it since.
I just need some guidance with getting it back on the road. :help:
 






Just replaced mine recently with a part salvaged from the local junkyard. Many thanks to Turdle for scratching his head with me trying to figure out why replacing it left me with a rough-running CEL displaying temperamental beast for three days...

Like so many others, I thought it's chirping was the water pump warning me...

After retracing wires, checking connections, replacing coil packs and then installing new Motorcraft plugs I was reaching for the shotgun: It was gonna be me or her!

In desperation I decided to take everything back out and hope in so doing I would find the issue (maybe it wasn't and EXACT matching part after-all??? It was...)

Turns out that the junk yard find had a small burn on the connector cap that prevented the connector plug from seating "all the way" even though it clicked-in and felt "home." A little Dremmel tool remedy and she purrrr'd and roared back to life!

I was fortunate to have snapped some good photos BEFORE removing it and reading this thread not realizing the importance of the alignment issue. I was able to save myself the 'tool' purchase by referring to the orientation of the old unit in the photos!

Here's a link to those pictures for anyone interested in the before/after.

https://picasaweb.google.com/118370...authkey=Gv1sRgCNmZga6B7cjJvgE&feat=directlink

Thanks everyone for your posts and help in these forums! The $20 membership fee is more than earned!
 






What size socket for those bolts holding the cam sensor? I have tried both SAE and metric out of my set and nothing fits.
 






What size socket for those bolts holding the cam sensor? I have tried both SAE and metric out of my set and nothing fits.




5.5 mm
 






Or 7/32"
 






Well, glad I found this thread, as I was fearing the worst yesterday hearing that squeak. Of course, the synchronizer couldn't show its true intentions until Chicago gets its first significant snowfall =/. AAANND its the holiday season so I'm extra broke. Has anyone had any good feedback with the Dorman? I dont want to keep driving the truck, but its my only vehicle and I dont have the 150+ to do it with the best parts. Bummed..
 






Well, glad I found this thread, as I was fearing the worst yesterday hearing that squeak. Of course, the synchronizer couldn't show its true intentions until Chicago gets its first significant snowfall =/. AAANND its the holiday season so I'm extra broke. Has anyone had any good feedback with the Dorman? I dont want to keep driving the truck, but its my only vehicle and I dont have the 150+ to do it with the best parts. Bummed..

The cam sensor also drives your oil pump, so, consider this when purchasing a new one.

The roll pin in aftermarket units is of thinner material, and may snap off during operation.
 






The cam sensor also drives your oil pump, so, consider this when purchasing a new one.

The roll pin in aftermarket units is of thinner material, and may snap off during operation.
well, the squeak is back, so looks like I'll be replacing the sync here sooner then I wanted. Ive read through this thread, and the part numbers provided aren't matching up at my local advanced or Napa. Does some one have the updated parts list? Any good feedback from the cardone sync, or is the motorcraft the safest way to go?
 






Back
Top