-Deathrow Update Log-

[DemonMudder]

Definitely the o-ring for the thermostat sits on top of it! For bleeding air, park with the nose uphill so the heater core is lower than the coolant tank/radiator cap. Learned that here.

Well I guess that helped, driveway sits at a nice upward angle, so thats perfect! lol

 

[CDW6212R]

The rubber seals on thermostats work well, those don't have to have extra sealant when the surfaces are clean and smooth. But a smear of RTV is never a bad thing, always consider that for all parts.

That brake booster rubber hose seal can shrink from age and heat. If it's leaking there, replace it, it's just like the PCV rubber seal that usually leaks at this age.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

They're rubber gaskets though, so I figured for disassembling once may be mostly fine, maybe a slight issue. But I think doing it like 10 times trying to fix things, need new ones, which I don't mind doing later.

maybe mine are too old, i took mine off and put it back on once and it was leaking

 

[CDW6212R]

maybe mine are too old, i took mine off and put it back on once and it was leaking

They may be. I reconstructed my 99 truck in 2006, and most parts then were very good. I installed new coolant hoses and the intake gaskets etc, but the rest was fine at the time. Now 16 years later doing the SOHC timing stuff again, I plan to replace everything this time, even the coolant hoses that were done way back when. The rubber stuff gets hard and shrinks a little, that makes for some vacuum leaks.

Watch the small plastic vacuum lines closely, those are super easy to break now. Be ready to replace some of those if they do crack or break.

 

[DemonMudder]

And there we go, fully running, new sounds of things being worn in, possible ticking from a manifold gasket leak or just again wearing in sounds, no one seems to think its anything bad especially for any time soon. They agree its probably a heat shield somewhere maybe from the cats, or the cats even falling apart. No check engine or anything

But one thing, the passenger side tensioner has a slight oil leak, very slight. But its dripping on the exhaust which smells now, but anyone got a fix for it? Adding a washer help? I'd rather not go extreme because I know those can delicate parts

 

[Fix4Dirt]

And there we go, fully running, new sounds of things being worn in, possible ticking from a manifold gasket leak or just again wearing in sounds, no one seems to think its anything bad especially for any time soon. They agree its probably a heat shield somewhere maybe from the cats, or the cats even falling apart. No check engine or anything

But one thing, the passenger side tensioner has a slight oil leak, very slight. But its dripping on the exhaust which smells now, but anyone got a fix for it? Adding a washer help? I'd rather not go extreme because I know those can delicate parts

i torqued mine down slightly more, sealed it for the last 2 years, i suppose one could use a crush washer though

 

[DemonMudder]

i torqued mine down slightly more, sealed it for the last 2 years, i suppose one could use a crush washer though

May try that, attempted to torque it down a bit more already and couldn't, but I ain't exactly strong either, so that's doesn't surprise me

 

[CDW6212R]

There is a crush washer behind the tensioners already, did yours not come with one? You could use the old one if needed, both are the same, a very thin washer metal ring. If there is any scratch on the heads or the washers, a smear of RTV can seal those well. The torque is about 42lbft as I recall, you could run that up to 50lbft or more easily. I used a long extension for my 1/2" ratchet on the passenger side, just holding the inner fender liner back with one wrist at the same time. That was a five minute job after getting the liner loose.

 

[DemonMudder]

There is a crush washer behind the tensioners already, did yours not come with one? You could use the old one if needed, both are the same, a very thin washer metal ring. If there is any scratch on the heads or the washers, a smear of RTV can seal those well. The torque is about 42lbft as I recall, you could run that up to 50lbft or more easily. I used a long extension for my 1/2" ratchet on the passenger side, just holding the inner fender liner back with one wrist at the same time. That was a five minute job after getting the liner loose.

I can double check, but I don't recall a washer being there or on the old tensioners? I need a junkyard trip anyway, so maybe I can nab some from there if not?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I can double check, but I don't recall a washer being there or on the old tensioners? I need a junkyard trip anyway, so maybe I can nab some from there if not?

it shoyldve come with washer on it, makes it seal nice like the oil pan drain bolt! i suppose you could get JY, but its already been crushed once,.. it could work though!

 

[DemonMudder]

it shoyldve come with washer on it, makes it seal nice like the oil pan drain bolt! i suppose you could get JY, but its already been crushed once,.. it could work though!

As said, I'll look when I have better light, my lights are dead from checking it out earlier and messing with it all morning. Keep ya updated, may just find the size and get a new one, maybe with a rubber seal on it, did that for the tail light guards

 

[CDW6212R]

The factory crush washer for those doesn't come with some of the tensioners, but the old ones can work if they were handled carefully. They are a thin metal but can work for a long time. Other people have tried to use just RTV and no washer, those always leaked from the threads I saw. Put a dab of oil on the washer and tensioner surface to hold the washer in place, it can move around some.

 

[DemonMudder]

What do y'all think would be best? A 1354E swap or a brown wire mod? I could have the brown wire bit done in no time. But I feel that the 1354 is probably the safer but more difficult route.


Also, just based on feeling, not taking the tire off to try and look right now, there ain't a washer on the tensioner, so I'll have to look into one.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

What do y'all think would be best? A 1354E swap or a brown wire mod? I could have the brown wire bit done in no time. But I feel that the 1354 is probably the safer but more difficult route.


Also, just based on feeling, not taking the tire off to try and look right now, there ain't a washer on the tensioner, so I'll have to look into one.

1354 gets rid of the clutch which finds its limits w 35s, wheras the 1354 doesnt and is clutchless if i understand it correctly. 1354 is more reliable long term, but the 4405 has served me well with the BWM for 300+k miles, and 4A is nice to have sometimes. 1354 swap aint too diffucult it bolts into same spot and if you do the E route it can be made to work w same dash dial, or you can go M

 

[DemonMudder]

1354 gets rid of the clutch which finds its limits w 35s, wheras the 1354 doesnt and is clutchless if i understand it correctly. 1354 is more reliable long term, but the 4405 has served me well with the BWM for 300+k miles, and 4A is nice to have sometimes. 1354 swap aint too diffucult it bolts into same spot and if you do the E route it can be made to work w same dash dial, or you can go M

I'll probably go with E to avoid cutting the floorboards right now, but the 4405 won't work with the SOHC? I just need to save a little gas, so, if can either wire up a quick 1354 or just add a brown wire switch in a day, that's not an issue. Having the 4A is definitely nice, especially for things like rainy roads, but it doesn't help with gas in the slightest.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I'll probably go with E to avoid cutting the floorboards right now, but the 4405 won't work with the SOHC? I just need to save a little gas, so, if can either wire up a quick 1354 or just add a brown wire switch in a day, that's not an issue. Having the 4A is definitely nice, especially for things like rainy roads, but it doesn't help with gas in the slightest.

4405 does work with sohc! the onyl thing about these 98+ is that they are live front axle, so you get the same fuel economy even in BWM 2wd as you would 4A, as input shaft spins same speed regardless, its just whether power is being sent or not iirc. to get better fuel economy you would have to swap to the 95-97 CAD axles with the vacuum driven globe thing to engage and disengage front axle. now if your truck is always kicking into 4wd, there may be an improvement, but if it doesn toften kick into 4wd, you may be best off witht he CAD axle, and doing the 95-7 variation of BWM, to actually see noticible fuel economy increase

the BWM is nice for burnouts htough but as far as fuel economy it does nothing for you (at least nothing noticible(unless you drive somewhere where it kicks into 4wd, but i see youre in FL so iassume it wouldnt unless your commute is mud)) for fuel economy the CAD is better

 

[DemonMudder]

4405 does work with sohc! the onyl thing about these 98+ is that they are live front axle, so you get the same fuel economy even in BWM 2wd as you would 4A, as input shaft spins same speed regardless, its just whether power is being sent or not iirc. to get better fuel economy you would have to swap to the 95-97 CAD axles with the vacuum driven globe thing to engage and disengage front axle. now if your truck is always kicking into 4wd, there may be an improvement, but if it doesn toften kick into 4wd, you may be best off witht he CAD axle, and doing the 95-7 variation of BWM, to actually see noticible fuel economy increase

the BWM is nice for burnouts htough but as far as fuel economy it does nothing for you (at least nothing noticible(unless you drive somewhere where it kicks into 4wd, but i see youre in FL so iassume it wouldnt unless your commute is mud)) for fuel economy the CAD is better

Of course it won't affect mileage much, how come these 5.0s with the 4406 swap get better mileage then but I can't do the exact same just with a 4405 lol

And how difficult would the CAD swap be to do? First time I've actually heard of that being a thing; and no, don't think 4wd has ever engaged on the road, plenty of times on the trails I've engaged it, can't recall noticing it do it itself though. Burnouts would be fun, but not a necessity! Not to mention not sure I can with the 32s lol

 

[CDW6212R]

That BW 4405 has been reliable for most people, but that internal clutch may need servicing soon given the mileage. So if you choose to take it out for some reason, consider the mileage and what you might replace it with, or rebuild it etc. I'm tied to the V8's mainly and the AWD TC's are due for some servicing at their mileage now. So rebuilding those will be new to me, or give the BW 4406 a try. I have one of those, with what is supposed to be 59k miles. The TOD version of that should be close to how the BW 4405 is made to work, with a similar internal clutch.

 

[CDW6212R]

The V8 AWD is a constant running thing that adds some drag that isn't there in the BW 4405 or 4406. I haven't experienced the 4406 myself yet, I just think the whole 4R trans and front diff/axles draw a lot of power to run them.

 

[DemonMudder]

The 4auto thing is a constant running thing as well though, not like the awd. It sends less power to the front but it still does and just sends more when needed, that's partially why we get like 15-16 mpg while things like the blazer got up to around 20+mpg, those had a true 2wd option. Most of the threads I've read suggest doing the 4406 with the V8 due to the mileage gains, saw one saying they were getting 18-20 after. The brown wire mod I can do as long as I don't attempt anything stupid. I'm not the crazy most knowledgeable on this stuff, just thought I was told that the 1354 on a sohc will do basically the same thing as the 4406 on the V8? Not sure about the 4405, I'd have to read more on it, rather not have to swap my axle out for the older CAD one. If I have to swap the front axle, I'm going all out with a sas, go all in or not at all, especially since I'd like to straight axle it eventually anyway, just save and go straight to that rather than spending more cash getting almost identical axles to what I have now. Which that will not happen any time soon, so, main plans right now are new exhaust and a cai to improve the power and mileage for now. Maybe the brown wire, or if its actually going to help and not be too bad to do, the 1354E most likely.