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IAC? Did it ever stall any other time or just at startup?
Never, it literally was just that. And that's what really made it strange since I could literally just tap the pedal and it would be enough, long as the cable got tugged any it was fine.
 



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Never, it literally was just that. And that's what really made it strange since I could literally just tap the pedal and it would be enough, long as the cable got tugged any it was fine.
TPS? Not too sure, since to me that seems like it's slow to bring more air in. Do you thnk its too lean or rich when it stalls? Interesting, Ill think about this one more.
 






Not sure, think i replace both of those before anyway, been awhile so I can't be sure. Any chance it could have been due to the slack in the chains?
 






Not sure, think i replace both of those before anyway, been awhile so I can't be sure. Any chance it could have been due to the slack in the chains?
I wouldnt think so? Not unless it skipped teeth, but you'd definitely notice that one.
 






I wouldnt think so? Not unless it skipped teeth, but you'd definitely notice that one.
Then I ain't sure at all, just hoping all this fixes it haha!
 






Well, well, she's almost done! Fully timed, most of the major stuff back together. Had a couple "close call incidents", so I'm taking a break for a bit, if not the night, but I'm still happy with the progress made!

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Found this lil' wooden guy at the junkyard, thoughts? Not sure how I feel

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Bougie imo haha
Yeah, found a different wood trim kit online i may run instead, later one since they ain't cheap. This one's nice(er), too funky for me I think lol
 






Forgot to upload this before, figure it probably a good idea since I'm not familiar with its mechanics. Just want to be sure I didn't damage it somehow when pulling the engine out.
 






It sounded like it wasn't in fully, that's the big key to an automatic install. Measure the front to back clearance of any torque convertor when it is in, before pulling it out, or best before separating the engine/trans. That clearance is the critical detail you need whenever putting a TC back in.

Once it is is fully seated, then it should be tough to rotate, but it should turn one way with difficulty, you are turning a lot of the guts with it.
 






Gotcha, so its probably fine then whenever it's pushed back into its place like at the end. I'll experiment tonight then to be sure. What about that rattle when it was loose, normal at the point?
 






That noise was probably normal for not being engaged all the way. Look at the snout of the TC, it has multiple steps which have to engaged both the input shaft, and the internal pump housing and gears. The noise was the incorrect meshing of the TC and the deeper parts.
 






That noise was probably normal for not being engaged all the way. Look at the snout of the TC, it has multiple steps which have to engaged both the input shaft, and the internal pump housing and gears. The noise was the incorrect meshing of the TC and the deeper parts.
Gotcha, thanks!! I'll make sure it's back fully in tonight then!
 






One, still can't find the weird 4wd solenoid thing. But I may have found an issue? On top of the front diff while I was cleaning a lil' found a rubber hose on top, if i follow it, it's just capped at the end, but it's busted before the cap. Any idea if that could be an issue? Or can I just leave it alone for now?

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That's the vent hose to the diff, the opening should be protected, that's what the top plastic valve thing is for. So it's not a huge problem but you should try to fix that. The hose is fairly long and molded with bends in it. You can reconnect the hose with any kind of simple vacuum connector. Getting to the hose will be tough, it's very tight in there so getting the hose out enough to work on it will be hard. That end piece will go onto the hose end but getting hand on it will be a challenge.
 






That's the vent hose to the diff, the opening should be protected, that's what the top plastic valve thing is for. So it's not a huge problem but you should try to fix that. The hose is fairly long and molded with bends in it. You can reconnect the hose with any kind of simple vacuum connector. Getting to the hose will be tough, it's very tight in there so getting the hose out enough to work on it will be hard. That end piece will go onto the hose end but getting hand on it will be a challenge.
Not horrific thanks to the engine being out, but gotcha, good to mess with while it's out then I guess. Maybe I could temporarily move the cap down to the break and re-secure it down?
 






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Not horrific thanks to the engine being out, but gotcha, good to mess with while it's out then I guess. Maybe I could temporarily move the cap down to the break and re-secure it down?
(This is only partially a joke hahah)
 









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