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i want to put a few mods for now in to my explorer

Its back! Its missing one part which I will get installed next week... the intake spacer. I only have one problem with the truck... On cold starts, it needs a little more gas to stay on cuz Idle is so low (500rpm), so I need to get it tunned soon (So I'll get that done next week also).

Low RPM seems the same, better acceleration, no need to exceed 3k rpms anymore, gas seems to be disapearing a little faster... and when I floored it (never did it from a stop) while accelerating and was at about 45, it threw me back.

I love it, sounds like a drag car with its gurgle
 



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Saleen_SR71 said:
Its back! Its missing one part which I will get installed next week... the intake spacer. I only have one problem with the truck... On cold starts, it needs a little more gas to stay on cuz Idle is so low (500rpm), so I need to get it tunned soon (So I'll get that done next week also).

Low RPM seems the same, better acceleration, no need to exceed 3k rpms anymore, gas seems to be disapearing a little faster... and when I floored it (never did it from a stop) while accelerating and was at about 45, it threw me back.

I love it, sounds like a drag car with its gurgle
Goodo
What all did you have done to the engine?
 






Ill have to get back to you on that one Spindle... Im so tired right now, I've been up since 7am (tried to sleep for 2 hours between 7pm and 8:30pm) and I start work at 10pm and have a full shift. Imma need me an energy drink or some coffee... Ill get the paper with the list of mods done to the motor. Lots of stuff and I cant remember it all

Off the top of my head...
JE Pistons
AFR Heads
New Rockers
Ford Racing Valve covers
New Plug wires
New OEM Injectors

The thing is new from top to bottom.

Little list of do's and dont's from the shop:
First oil change is in 500 miles... no synthetic till 12,000 miles (that will take a long time for me to reach). No mixing oil brands. Oil change every 3k miles. Anything strange happens (leaks and what not) notify them cuz it may be a problem.

I had to get another alignment afterwards... the front tires had toed out for some reason... Luckly I know the guy at the shop and it was after hours when I got there so he hooked me up (I got my alignment from that shop in the first place when I got my rims).

P.S. Would a tunning fix the Idle problem? I think this is a question I might need to ask a dyno tunner. I think Ill email Doug, hopefully I could get a quick response.
 






cool, glad you are goiing. Did you replace the throttle body? if so you might need to back off the iac screw 1/2 turn, let more air in. It should close off when warmed.
Jon
 






Throttle body is still the same... I think it was the timng... I just remembered that the guy said he was going to put the timing off by like a digree so that when the motor broke in it would be on spec. It started up and stayed on every time I started it today.

MPG is horrible. I already went through 7 gallons and I'm at like 86 miles since the motor was in (84 or so since I filled up) 12 mpg... could be better if I kept it at 65 or under. But why am I complaining... Before the motor rebuild I was only getting like 14

Im still scared to get on it at a stop.

My coworker with a Daytona truck wanted to race me (I think she was joking once again), but I told her I had to break the motor in... what a challange it will be, I dont want to mess anything up with its tuned but not so tuned settings.

I need a fire extinguisher and I need to fix the hood latch problem... And only one of my under neons work which is weird. I need to do some work on a few things before taking it out again.
 






Your mileage will increase when the engine loosens up a bit.
I have to ask, is it going into overdrive and torque converter locking up?
You should be at about 2200 rpm's at 70 mph
if it's up around 2700 rpm's at 70 mph, the t/c isn't locking.
that will yield poor gas mileage
I get over 20 mpg's on highway
By the way, which cam did you choose, I missed that part
 






Its still idling a little low... I stalled 4 times today on the road. I found the throttle cable to be a tad loose, so imma space it out to try to get like 700 rpm out of it for idle.

I dont remember feeling the T/C locking... it was going 3k rpm at 110+, Im assuming it locked

picture of the cam paper
CAMSpecs.jpg


List of the parts I can read and some what make out:
AFR 185 Heads
Eagle Crank
Eagle Rods (think they are H rods)
Melling Oil pump
JE pistons
Billet timming set
molly rings
9.1 compression
 






So are you getting the bugs killed?
I just now got the gas mileage thing. ;) That power increase is due to more gas getting in. Kind of fun huh? :burnout:

But, if you keep an easy foot, on long trips, you will see an improvement over stock due to the increased piston travel and speed. The stroke increase alone gives more torque at given rpm's ( kind of like a longer handled wrench)
My goal all along was to prove that a ecu controlled performance engine could be built more powerful and more fuel efficient.
I still have work to do, but if I keep it at 69, and don't downshift for passing, I can get 22 mpg easy. ( old geezer driving style)
Bur romp it, and get 5 mpg
heh heh
 






Ive eased up on the gas and also turned the settings back to stock, so gas milage should be better by a tad... But now I have a limiter again (I think).

I tried taking on a Trans that either had a SC or Nitrous but due to the traffic we didnt get a go at it.
 






Saleen_SR71 said:
Ive eased up on the gas and also turned the settings back to stock, so gas milage should be better by a tad... But now I have a limiter again (I think).

I tried taking on a Trans that either had a SC or Nitrous but due to the traffic we didnt get a go at it.
Dude
You got alot of bux invested, get that engine dialed in dead nuts perfect and at least broken in before you start beatin on it.JMO
 






spindlecone said:
Dude
You got alot of bux invested, get that engine dialed in dead nuts perfect and at least broken in before you start beatin on it.JMO

Yeah Im not getting on it anymore, its kept under 3Krpm and under 75mph 99% of the time I drive it now. The tune... Well I dont think the shop can tune it unless I have a chip. They told me to go in to get it dynoed to see how its running, I think I might do that Friday. 180 Miles till its done being broken in. Ended up being 3 tanks of gas (fill-up when it hits a quarter tank).

I love it so much, Im just cruzing with it now. Still need my SuperCharger... and upgraded accessories to go with it.
 






Need help ASAP! The valve covers are leaking oil on to my headers, I need to know how tall of a valve cover to use. They had Ford Racing valve covers installed, but they didnt clear the rockers with a single gasket so they used two. So their suggestion was to use a thicker gasket (which they will order and try to find) or to get taller valve covers. Id perfer the taller valve covers, so what size would I be looking in to? I dont know how tall the valve covers are right now, but i need a little more room in there.

JT I know you went 347 so hows that setup on your truck?

p.s. how do you measure valve covers? i measured to the utmost peak and got close to 3", was that right?
 






You already have an intake spacer?
 






Saleen_SR71 said:
Need help ASAP! The valve covers are leaking oil on to my headers, I need to know how tall of a valve cover to use. They had Ford Racing valve covers installed, but they didnt clear the rockers with a single gasket so they used two. So their suggestion was to use a thicker gasket (which they will order and try to find) or to get taller valve covers. Id perfer the taller valve covers, so what size would I be looking in to? I think the ford racing ones are 4" (im eyeballing it), and i cant get anything higher than 4.5" due to clearance for the manifold.

JT I know you went 347 so hows that setup on your truck?
Your engine builder needs to slapped upside the head
 






the shop has it, it hasnt been installed yet though
 






spindlecone said:
Your engine builder needs to slapped upside the head
I was getting frustrated that it was taking so long to get done, so I kinda rushed them. I mean a 1 month in shop estamate ended up taking a little over 2 months... I wanted it back bad.

I mean they ordered the part from im assuming Summit Racing, and they were told "yes it will clear the rockers" so they purchased it, so its not just the builders fault, its company error also. And me being antsy in wanting to get the car back didnt make it easier on the shop
 






I have experienced this, and had to remove the internal baffles. The rockers were hitting them.You still need two gaskets, but they won't tap loose. Then install an oil seperator in the breather line.
Otherwise, you need tall covers to clear roller rockers.
 






Saleen_SR71 said:
I was getting frustrated that it was taking so long to get done, so I kinda rushed them. I mean a 1 month in shop estamate ended up taking a little over 2 months... I wanted it back bad.

I mean they ordered the part from im assuming Summit Racing, and they were told "yes it will clear the rockers" so they purchased it, so its not just the builders fault, its company error also. And me being antsy in wanting to get the car back didnt make it easier on the shop
JMO, never assume anything when it comes to building a high$$$$$$$$$$$ engine, you need to be proactive in this process, building an engine is like building a house.
Your engine builder did a crap job,or not, you have to many problems that you should not address on your own,, oil leaks, bad idle, tranny problems.
Granted a new engine can have some glitches, but as you have said in prior posts about the new engine, you have been beating it.
Any engine builder of any repute would have blown you off for as you say a rush job.
Your in my town, who did the work?
 






jtsmith said:
I have experienced this, and had to remove the internal baffles. The rockers were hitting them.You still need two gaskets, but they won't tap loose. Then install an oil seperator in the breather line.
Otherwise, you need tall covers to clear roller rockers.

Hmm well it looks like they did everything like you did, not to sure about the oil seperator. They modified the baffles so that it will fit. So my problem is probably just a bad gasket seal.

spindlecone said:
JMO, never assume anything when it comes to building a high$$$$$$$$$$$ engine, you need to be proactive in this process, building an engine is like building a house.
Your engine builder did a crap job,or not, you have to many problems that you should not address on your own,, oil leaks, bad idle, tranny problems.
Granted a new engine can have some glitches, but as you have said in prior posts about the new engine, you have been beating it.
Any engine builder of any repute would have blown you off for as you say a rush job.
Your in my town, who did the work?
They fixed the idle problem, it was due to my cam choice.
Oil leak could happen to anyone, and apparently I once again was a lucky one. Seeing as how JT never leaked through his double gasket setup there was nothing wrong with it (unless JT is running thinner gaskets than the gaskets I have on which seem to be about 1/8th inch gaskets equaling approx 1/4th inch spacing).
I said the tranny had problems? I dont have any

Im still wondering how valve covers are measured...

Shop was in Hayward (Robs Auto Machine). Even with my b*tching, the guy took his time (a week and a half) dressing up the motor (after it was sitting in place) and double checking everything making sure everything was working properly before releasing the truck, and at the time everything was working good.

I was thinking maybe I'll losen the valve covers and clean the oil off the gasket and then retighten it, who knows maybe the gasket expanded a little and is no longer sitting right... But warranty makes me have second thoughts about that. Oil only leaks when the car is warm
 



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Just get a new pairof gaskets, and redo that side. use a magnet and get all of the little metal washer things out of the head from the old gaskets, they sometimes fall out. They are there to prevent the gaskets from smashing too far.Make sure to count them and account for all of them.
Don't use any sealer, you'll just end up with a mess.
 






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