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Just washed my engine

I can't post the data, the charts are all messed up



no wait-somebobdy already tried that excuse-----:D
Guess who said it and win a prize--


If I push print screen and save it to paint-it's too large to attach--grr
 



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aha!
here is the shifter position and commanded shifts--notice in d, no command-
when dropped to "2" it commanded and transmission shifted-

down to one and back commanded anther shift--
 

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here is
TPS
Maf

short term trims-1 and 2

looks like the bank one sensor is a little lazy-but remember-the battery was disconnected and it was cold. The PCM is not calibrated at all--
 

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Where is Jon to interpret that?
 






Either the maf is interrupting the shift command, or the PCM is not commanding the shift, would be my guess.

I'm going to get a filter, install the lightning MAF, load James' tune file and see what happens

My intuition tels me my PCM is fried though. Just a strong gut feeling.
 






I hope not, they aren't hard to find, but having a new one programmed to work is a bother. I have a spare also, I think the $55 I paid was typical. Let's hope that it's the MAF.
 












I didn't know if those were yours to use or not. If you do need it you know you are heading to a dealership to have it programmed to work? The calibration code doesn't affect the PATS mating, they have "serial numbers" that are matched to the PATS etc. Regards,
 






And the reason i haven't already swapped them is I'd like to prove one or the other-somehow, for further reference.
I'd really like to see some data which would point to one or the other--
 






I didn't know if those were yours to use or not. If you do need it you know you are heading to a dealership to have it programmed to work? The calibration code doesn't affect the PATS mating, they have "serial numbers" that are matched to the PATS etc. Regards,

Meaning they all ( Pats module-ignition switch and PCM) need to be swapped together-correct?
why would this require a trip to do the dealership?
 






Well yes you can swap the whole set, but do you really want to swap the ignition cylinder, how about the door cylinders, hatch? I've done that before, I had to do all three door/hatch cylinders on my 99.
 






Because James ( jah81592) is such a great guy-

A simple (for me) solution.
James went the extra mile to send me a stock tune file with the PATS turned off.:thumbsup:

Insert loud applause--you know he didn't have to do this.
 






Because James ( jah81592) is such a great guy-

A simple (for me) solution.
James went the extra mile to send me a stock tune file with the PATS turned off.:thumbsup:

Insert loud applause--you know he didn't have to do this.
That is just what I do for my customers. I go the extra mile. Try to get this kind of customer service from Ebay.( insert jab smiley-where is it at when you need it?)LOL!
 






I can't say I've ever had the level of service you provide James-from anybody.
I thought real hard before I typed that-:thumbsup:
Thanks James!!



OK gentlemen, now, bear with me a minute
I have My original PCM out now. I looked it over for visual damage and see none.

So, if I install the second PCM, I will need to flash the non-PATS file to it. This involves turning on the key.
I think the alarm might sound the minute I stick my key in and turn it on.

Am I wrong?
I know-someone is going to say "just try it" but I don't feel like being the entertainment today. At least not in this thread.
 












What happened to good old carbs?
 






I don't think that the alarm would sound, unless it was armed before hand.
 



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OK, the MAF and PCM are still not ruled out--here is why-

I'm quoting from Glaciers posts as I find them-

I appreciate the help--even if it's just moral support.

Ok... let's start by looking at what causes the 1-2 shift in the 4R70W to start with.... and then we can work from there. The fact you have an intermittent is actually a good thing because it rules out certain mechanical failures that once happened would not ever be right again without a rebuild.

In the A4LD and 4R44 and 5R44 series the 1-2 shift is caused by applying the intermediate band (in the 5R55 2nd gear is nothing more than an overdriven 1st gear). But you have the 4R70W. It gets 2nd gear by applying the intermediate clutch, located directly behind the pump and using the case as its housing. Your intermediate clutch is applying late, sometimes. Why? is the question.

If you did not get a 1-2 shift at all or if it was always screwed up we could be looking at a myriad of things, but the fact that it works fine *sometimes* means we can look past those things... So let's look at the hydraulics, as it is likely something somewhere in the hydraulic circuitry not always supplying the force to apply the intermediate piston and locking up the intermediate clutch and effecting the 1-2 shift.

First off, this transmission has 2 shift solenoids, housed together on the main control unit (valve body) and easy to replace by merely dropping the pan. When the PCM sesnse the conditions are right for the 1-2 shift (more on this later) it turns off the SS11 solenoid off, and the SS2 will (or should) remain off. By turning off the SS1 solenoid, pressure on one side of the 1-2 shift valve is removed and so the other side overpowers it and it starts to move. The movement allows fluid to start to energize the Intermediate clutch circuit. This circuit applies the intermediate clutch and causes the 1-2 accumulator to become active. Important in all this is that there is a check ball involved which seals the circuit and allows it to pressurize. A stuck or sticky check ball wouldnot allow the circuit to pressurize, and you would not have a intermediate engagement due to that fact. There is also fluid flow to the OD servo regulator, but I think for our analysis at this point we can put that in the back of our minds.

One of several things is likely happening. First, the PCM is not getting the inputs it needs to command the shift. These inputs come from the output shaft speed sensor (as well as others but that is the main one) for this shift. Possible intermittent OSS problem? On the list of possibles. Cost to replace? $20 plus labor, on the outside of the case near the rear.

If the PCM is telling SS1 to turn off, is SS1 hanging up? Another possible. Cost to replace? A bath in ATF when you remove the pan and about $35 for the solenoid pair. Add a pan drain plug.

If the PCM is doing its job, and SS1 is doing its job, is the 1-2 shift valve sticking in the VB? Is the 1-2 accumulator causing a problem? Is the check ball grunged up in the main control unit and not seating causing a problem? The 1-2 accumulator is under the main control unit, and if you remove it SHOULD be replaced for under $10. The main control unit should be gone through to check for any debris or other problems that might cause either the 1-2 shift valve to hang up, or the #8 checkball not to seat properly. Add new gaskets when you replace and torque it properly using an inch lb torque wrench.

Obviously these things MAY not fix your problem, but these are the items that I sense are involved, either ONE of them, or a combination. Good luck.


Now this is from an intermittent late 1-2 shift thread-but there is some good info here-
Mainly-the shift command is not executed until the PCM senses the conditions are correct.
 






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