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Manual 1354 Swap Questions...

I just finished putting it in and took it for a quick test drive. i think i heard a clankin noise but im really hoping i didn't cause that was one heavy mother to put in myself. Ill take it for another drive tomorrow and see what happens. Also will i need to get my driveshafts rebalanced? the rear one is the original and the front one i got from the same yard.
 



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just posting to follow up...

almost a month later and no leaks(*knock on wood*)!

the clanking noises I heard were actually just my U-Joints going bad so thats a relief that the transfer case is good! Now I just gotta get someone to press them in out and in for me. I tried banging the old ones out myself but they barely moved and I figured if I had to hammer that hard to get the old ones out I didn't want to take a chance screwing up the new ones when I was putting them in, as cheap as they may be.

I had a lead on the shift linkage but it was for a 1350 and I didn't want to go through the trouble if it wasn't work right or have all the parts. So I ended up manufacturing my own out of a piece of angled steel, a threaded rod, and a few bolts and washers. It works pretty good and to shift I pull or push the lever up and down one click at a time as opposed to the forward and back like usual. I could post pics if anyone was so intersted in seeing it.

Also my driveshafts seem fine and no real noticable extra vibration on the highway, even with bad u-joints!

:)
 






I would like to see pics of the linkage. I will probably end up making my own as well.

As for the u-joints the way they do it is the same way you do it. Bang on it. put it on a table or vice and bang the heck out of the other side so it pushes them out. Then to put them in just use a rubber mallot.
 






sure ill throw some pics up tonight...

I was under the impression that they had a hydraulic press for doing such things. I would think the needles could get all messed up if you tried hammering the cap in with out the cross section all the way in it though. Maybe not? Maybe I'll take another whack at it, this time soaking it in a ton of WD40 first.

Also, since I originally planned on doing it myself, I picked up a pair of greasable joints instead of the greased for life ones like ford put in there. Anyone see any reason why non-serviceable u-joints would be better than greasable? (maybe I should just make a new thread for this)
 






definantly go with the greasable, "lubed for life" means once the lube is gone you have to replace the joint. :p
 






Originally posted by Nick26
sure ill throw some pics up tonight...

I was under the impression that they had a hydraulic press for doing such things. I would think the needles could get all messed up if you tried hammering the cap in with out the cross section all the way in it though. Maybe not? Maybe I'll take another whack at it, this time soaking it in a ton of WD40 first.

Also, since I originally planned on doing it myself, I picked up a pair of greasable joints instead of the greased for life ones like ford put in there. Anyone see any reason why non-serviceable u-joints would be better than greasable? (maybe I should just make a new thread for this)

Well they do have presses but I have seen several "pros" do it and their press was a table and a BFH.
 












shift linkage constuction, I used:
- 1' x 3/8" threaded rod
- 1.25" x 1.25" x 14.25" angled galvanized steel
- 2.5" x 1/2" coarse thread bolt with 1.25" neck
- 1/2" coarse thread nut
- rubber things with 3/8" nuts in them to thread on either side of the rod
- 20 little plastic washers with 1/2" inside diameter and 3/4" outside
- lawn mower handle/nut thing
- some cheap shifter boot from autozone thats already ripped

pics:
go here for pictures for now....
 












section525 said:
Where do we see the pics now? :p
haha, had to be a ball buster... my site changed yet again so i'm beginnning to see its easiest to just upload pics now.
 

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what all did you have to do for this swap... does your 4x4 light blink now? also do you stil have 4405 mine is gone south... mine is a f77a 7a195ga
 












Nick,

Your install seemed to go as smoothly as mine did. I used a new gasket and RTV (t-case side) with no leaks. If you have the auto tranny, there's a sump in the tailshaft. With the manual tranny, there is no sump. I would have suggested some type of lubricant (grease or never-seize) for the tranny output shaft. Forum member Premier had problems with rust preventing him from easily removing his old t-case.

I'd like to see your fabbed shift linkage. My t-case came with a modified BII linkage but I had to fab another t-case shift arm.

I'm running some 'junk' Mercon III in the case right now as a "flush". I'll drain it in a few weeks (if you leave your front driveshaft off and run the t-case in 4 Hi, the chain spins the fluid around).

Also, you didn't need to seal off the back side of the speedo cable. There's a rubber o-ring that seals against the case.

Lastly, buy one of those u-joint/ball joint press tools from Harbor Freight. They're pretty cheap and you can R&R all five u-joints in under an hour. If you have the double cardan front driveshaft, replacing the tandem u-joints is a real thrill............

Dave.
 






Bronco638 said:
Nick,

Your install seemed to go as smoothly as mine did. I used a new gasket and RTV (t-case side) with no leaks. If you have the auto tranny, there's a sump in the tailshaft. With the manual tranny, there is no sump. I would have suggested some type of lubricant (grease or never-seize) for the tranny output shaft. Forum member Premier had problems with rust preventing him from easily removing his old t-case.

I'd like to see your fabbed shift linkage. My t-case came with a modified BII linkage but I had to fab another t-case shift arm.

I'm running some 'junk' Mercon III in the case right now as a "flush". I'll drain it in a few weeks (if you leave your front driveshaft off and run the t-case in 4 Hi, the chain spins the fluid around).

Also, you didn't need to seal off the back side of the speedo cable. There's a rubber o-ring that seals against the case.

Lastly, buy one of those u-joint/ball joint press tools from Harbor Freight. They're pretty cheap and you can R&R all five u-joints in under an hour. If you have the double cardan front driveshaft, replacing the tandem u-joints is a real thrill............

Dave.

Hey Dave, I've done quite a few u joints since then and now I and pretty much got the hang of it with the BFH. Although one of my knukles is still recovering from the last time i did them :D

ohh that makes sense about the difference between the auto and manual.

My fabbed linkage is pretyt simple, just like a see saw setup pivoting on a bolt i put in the largest threaded hole on the side of the tranny. so I push and pull a rod through my floor to shift up and down. I am actually planning on redoing soon though because the shift boot is making it difficult to stay in 4Lo. I'll take pictures when i do. There are old pictures scattered on this page of the original setup though: http://nickdeubert.homelinux.com/pictures03/indexes/2003-10-08 - Kevins Car & UMD.html

Finally i didn't flush my case like that and I haven't had any problems at all, no leaks or anything.
 






Ah, I see what you did. Pretty nice.

I wasn't trying to insinuate that your case would leak if you didn't 'flush' it, I was just letting you know that there's a way to "agitate" the fluid and that would help dislodge any debris in the case. I don't know the history of my t-case. So, I figured that a couple of cheap quarts of MIII would work.
 






Do you guys think the 5.)n AWD speed sensor will install ihn the BW1354 T case?
My truck is using a 96 Explorer 5.0L AWD computer with a 94 4.0L T case and speed sensor. OD light is flashing, so I need to get the 5.0L Speed sensor in there.

Alos the rear diff speed sensor is used for the ABS, the output shaft speed sensor ( T case) is used by the trucks computer and cruise control.
You need both, at least in 96-97 you would.
 






If you guys are looking for linkages look up AllanD. He seems to find these things and holds on to them just for the reason the wreckers don't.

BFH and sockets work for Joints but they can bump the needles out and you could end up breaking some. FWIW get a tool to do it. I paid $40 Cdn for mine and it's prolly saved me more in Damaged sockets and U-joints.
 



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410Fortune said:
Do you guys think the 5.)n AWD speed sensor will install ihn the BW1354 T case?
My truck is using a 96 Explorer 5.0L AWD computer with a 94 4.0L T case and speed sensor. OD light is flashing, so I need to get the 5.0L Speed sensor in there.

Alos the rear diff speed sensor is used for the ABS, the output shaft speed sensor ( T case) is used by the trucks computer and cruise control.
You need both, at least in 96-97 you would.

Hey Jamie, I actually never had to deal with any speed sensors because mine is a 99 and it uses the one in the rear end. The other ones in the Tcase were just used for control trac i guess.

I would think there is a place for a speed sensor on the 4R70W since there were 97 2WD 5.0's right? If not maybe they send the same signal anyway and you can tap off another one?
 






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