Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

[techieman33]

You could make a template from your header flange and put it over the heads

 

[410Fortune]

Ron Davis said send us back the unit, they will rip it apart and determine if its their welds that failed, then decide if they will pay for a new one

I was like, um no.....Now I get to buy another $450 radiator that may or may not fail again from you, or go without my $450 radiator + 2x shipping until you decide what to do?
My vote was they send me a new one, I send them back the old one and call it good
He wanted me to PAY for the new one, then decide if he would re-emburse me for it once they took it apart LOL

I removed the radiator myself and took it to a local expert, we bench pressure tested it, the "header" welds failed on both sides. the Header weld is internal, it is where the side tanks and welded to the core inside before the top is welded in place
Basically I have a very pretty tig welded POS that leaks from both sides if I fill my cooling system all the way up and run the factory radiator cap
Right now I run around 1/2 gallon low and 6# cap, 3 cans of BG stop leak and it barely drips out, been running like this for 2 years. Last year I got the AA radiator from Ebay for $200... sitting in the garage. The AA radiator is made to fit in my radiator support without any mods, well I modded the heck out of mine, I cut the air flow opening 2" wider per side and removed the lower mounts....so its like working backwards!!! but it will help me make room for my new winch

truck runs at 210 degrees until thermostat opens then sits at 195-200 water temp all the time, I have seen spikes at 230 degrees when wheeling

Replacement body parts are CHEAP for these trucks because they sold so many of them
the new rad support for my Explorer was $50

 

[seth247]

techie: thats the problem. I don't have the headers I'm gonna use. Nor do I know Which ones i'm gonna use.

Jaime: wow. I'll keep that in mind if I ever hear anybody thinkin about purchasing one. (that's right, I hear thoughts)

200$ That's a deal on the aa rad.


I just don't know if the enamle will burn if it's in contact with the flange. It's rated to like 500*

 

[techieman33]

You could just use a gasket

 

[CDW6212R]

Try to fit an OEM radiator if you can, the cost would be much less. Try to measure the later Explorer units, see if they are not too tall to fit your truck.

BTW, are you still planning to try to install a BW4406? If so, you may have more clearance at the gas tank than the later trucks. I just compared my old 93 4dr. tank to my purchased 99 Sport tank. They are the same length basically. The earlier tanks are larger in girth, height/width. The later tanks are basically narrow or looked partially crushed all around them. I will look hard at my existing 91 4dr. truck, and the later parts. I would love to keep a 22 gallon tank.

 

[seth247]

there we go. Why didn't I think of that. I can pick up a cheapone at auto zoo and use it.

Thanks techie man.

 

[seth247]

Don:Yeah I hope the first gen rad works.

When I was under jt's truck I noticed the tank was much narrower and longer.

Mine is fat, tall,and short(length). I'm pretty sure I won't have any problems there.

 

[seth247]

All masked off and ready to go.

 

[seth247]

sweet! Got paid today and cashed in my built up vacation. If I can get up early enough to make it to the bank tomorrow before they close, then I'll be goin on a shoppin spree on Saturday. I need: pistons, rods, bearings, gaskets, stainless intake hardware, new head bolts, oil pan, maybe headers, pushrods, maybe Lifters, maybe rockers, maybe stainless steel water pump/ timing cover hardware, and wiring loom.

I'll post pictures and prices of everything

Hell I still need to find a 4406. Thatll have to wait for another paycheck.


Oh yeah. And a camshaft.

 

[CDW6212R]

Seth, you do have about 10" of extra space in front of the gas tank. You will not need a different tank for any reason. Have fun with the parts hunt.

 

[seth247]

thanks for the info don. good to know.

i haven't even started on the parts hunt yet. been painting and cleaning all day. as you can see... with and without flash to help you get an idea of the color.

Kinda dirty

when i was taking pictures i noticed the better lighting on some of jon's work so i took more pics.

Im gonna go get some Ribcrib and then start spending money. :biggthump

 

[CDW6212R]

There are three Ford blues, are you going with the light blue? I always wanted the medium blue, and the dark blue is almost purple. This is the first time I'm trying black.

 

[seth247]

if I were to take a guess I would say this is the medium. There were two colors at autozone. Ford blue and dark ford blue. Which like you say was almost purple.

Those pictures look lighter than the actual color.

 

[seth247]

how much lift can the factory rockers/springs handle?

 

[seth247]

still need answer to the above question. and what do you guys think about this?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-3722

Brand: Edelbrock
Product Line: Edelbrock Performer-Plus Camshafts
Part Type: Camshafts
Part Number: EDL-3722
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: Idle-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220 int./220 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 282
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 282
Advertised Duration: 282 int./282 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.498 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.498 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.498 int./0.498 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Computer Controlled Compatible: No
Quantity: Sold individually.

Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 282/282, Lift .498/.498, Ford, Small Block, Each

* Check to make sure this part fits your application

The heart of the total power package.
These Performer-Plus camshafts from Edelbrock are designed for optimum torque from the low-end to the mid-range. They are smooth idling cams for daily drivers, trucks, vans, RVs, and 4x4s. They offer improved throttle response and torque.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

If anything it'll be a very pretty motor, lol. Can't wait to see it installed.

If you have the motor out of the Explorer, now would be a good time to paint/touch up the engine bay if you were wanting to for just about anything. From electrical wires to paint.

 

[seth247]

i think when it comes to that time i'm gonna be like oh my god lets just get the thing in there i wanna drive it!!1!11!!!1! and probly wont take the time for that.

 

[Turdle]

Matt
Be sure to pull the masking tape from the smaller water outlet tube--

 

[seth247]

yep

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't use that cam or anything like it with equal intake/exhaust duration. That 220 degrees is way too much for a stock 302, the OEM cams are under 200 degrees. I've read that an HO cam is about 204-208. The exhaust duration should be as much over the intake duration as possible, say 6-10 degrees.

Ignore all cam specs for your basic stockish application except the @0.050 duration, and LSA figures. Those are basic rules, not perfect but that stops all of the other figures from confusing you. The stock springs etc. shouldn't be used for much more than stock lifts. A limit of .500" isn't a bad goal as an example.

Hunt for a cam recommended by a cam expert. All cam companies have techs who answer phones, but those are not really the best either. I'd suggest paying a cam designer to recommend a cam for you vehicle. They take the same information from you to design a cam, and find an OTS(off the shelf) cam instead. I've read of a $30 charge, which would be a bargain. Try Jay Allen or Ed Curtis, they may or may not still do that.