metal thermostat housing soon available for v6 2005+ engine

[frickea86]

Dorman Part No. 902-860 is available at Amazon for $47.87 & FREE Shipping.

Re-engineered to address common failure points in the original equipment, Dorman’s Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing has improved durability and resistance. It withstands the extreme changes in temperature that frequently cause housing to become brittle, crack and leak. This is more than a replacement; it’s an upgrade. Maintain the steady flow of coolant and lessen the chances of overheating.

Product Features:

* Direct replacement for a proper fit every time
* Hoses slide on for easy installation
* High-quality plastic or metal construction
* Includes all hardware necessary for a complete repair (where applicable)​

I used one of their replacement intake manifolds for my '99 Grand Marquis, and it worked as advertised for only $200.00. Better than OEM for a fraction of the cost!

Orney,

That one is defiantly better as I have it installed currently. They eliminate the common failure point of the multiple layers of plastic coming un-glued by running a bolt through two of the 3 bolt holes and when tightened it compresses two bolt locations instead of pulling up on the glued plastic.

Problems though, its still multilayered plastic held together by an adhesive and the third rear bolt for the upper thermostat housing can not be updated so it still pulls up on the plastic. Along with the odd bolt design, the plastic can not deal with extreme temperature changes and ends up warping.

I have had this one and it has lasted the longest out of any of them but after two years of heavy hauling I now have a leaking lower thermo housing because it warped. This metal one would eliminate the multi-layered plastic design and be able to handle the constant temperature changing coolant.

If cost is your concern, I believe the $50 to $60 price increase is worth it as this is what ford should of done in the beginning. Instead they chose to save money and converted a push-rod engine to a cam'ed engine.

 

[Ornery]

It is terrible. Plastic radiators, intake manifolds... what's next? One thing that could benefit from being plastic, is the gas tank, but of course, that's still steel.

 

[frickea86]

It is terrible. Plastic radiators, intake manifolds... what's next? One thing that could benefit from being plastic, is the gas tank, but of course, that's still steel.

First Gens were, lol.

 

[4pointslow]

Metal Housing

Will there be a metal upper housing for sale?
Have these sold out yet?

 

[swshawaii]

7/28/2013

The upper cover housing (above the thermostat) is different. Its shorter and has a slight upper angle. I will have them ready for the explorer soon.

 

[TourGuide]

This thread is JUST in time for me. My housing started leaking recently, so I sent payment for the metal lower housing and when the upper is ready I'll replace the reused plastic upper with the metal then I ought to be set.

Here is the reply I got about the upper:

Metal upper for the explorer will be available in a few months, but the metal lower housing will keep you from leaking. Then we the upr one is ready, slap that on and no more headaches.

I'll let everyone know how this unit works. Within a couple of weeks I ought to have it replaced.

 

[thermohousing]

My pay pal email is fdxmechanic@yahoo.com. You can send funds directly to paypal email. I d not have the dual lower housing listed separately yet so thats the only way to buy right now.

 

[2000StreetRod]

upgrade required parts?

I'm trying to determine what parts are required to upgrade to the metal lower thermostat housing that's being shipped to me. I've reviewed past related threads, ebay listings and the Tasca Ford database and have the following potential list:

2 each W706800-S303 -- sender/sensor retainer clip
1 each 3L8Z-12A648-BA superceded by 3L8Z12A648A (Motorcraft DY1004) -- coolant temperature sensor
1 each 3F1Z-10884-AA (Motorcraft SW6146) -- coolant temperature sender

Can someone please confirm the above parts are correct. I found at least one part diagram that showed the sensors as screw in instead of clip in.

 

[swshawaii]

I recently installed a DY1004 ECT sensor and can confirm it is the newer clip in type wth the o-ring seal.
Ditto SW6146 temp gauge sender. (Both #'s may be superseded) Metal horseshoe clip number is correct.


http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4332630

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,48,partnum,SW6146,d,MOTORCRAFT_SW6146.html
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=387135

 

[2000StreetRod]

parts on order

Thanks for the confirmation. I now have the parts on order and will post the results of my upgrade.

 

[swshawaii]

Looking forward to detailed pics regarding fit, build quality, etc. Hopefully a long term solution for this common failure.

 

[4pointslow]

Metal Thermostat Housing

Mine showed up today already, fast shipping!
I wont be installing this yet, waiting for warmer weather.
Here is a few pictures.

 

[2000StreetRod]

thanks for photos

I was wondering if I would need to puchase gaskets so your photos saved me some time and money. I assume the O rings are for reusing the sensors. I've decided to install mine as soon as I get the sensors. I think I replaced the lower hose 3 years ago when I had the engine out for timing chain repairs. I'll reuse the hose but replace the old standard style hose clamps with new Norma Torro hose clamps.

I use them for critical, hard to access, or silicone hose clamping applications.

 

[4pointslow]

Gasket

The only thing that worries me is the last picture. What happens when you need a replacement for that gasket. The original plastic design didn't have that one so I figure it is custom made. Maybe we can get replacements to keep on hand or use sensor safe high temp sealer.

Another good idea with clamps is to order new spring clamps, I got a box off eBay just waiting till next time I need them. They hold constant tension. The cheap hose clamps they sell in stores loosen up sometimes, usually when the temperature changes.
Those Norma Torro's look pretty well built, much heftier than the cheapies. Wish the stores would get rid of the cheap ones and keep those Torro's in stock.

 

[thermohousing]

I have extra gaskets, but you can run the setup without the gasket. The gasket is a secondary seal. Primary seal is the o-ring on top of the thermostat. I am eventually going to have a web site with all of the parts available individually ,so they will be available.

 

[2000StreetRod]

housing comparison

I finally received the sensors and retaining clips this morning and they looked like they would fit the metal housing so I pulled my stock plastic housing for comparison. I was pleased that I got it out without disconnecting any fuel hoses.

The first thing I noticed is how much closer together the sensor mounts are in the metal housing compared to the plastic housing. Note: make sure to oil the sensor O rings before installing them to prevent abrasive damage.

Also, the sensors sit taller in the housing which concerned me because one of my fuel hoses is above the sensors. In my stock unit the engine temperature sender (3F1Z-10884-AA) is on the passenger side and its connector wire crosses above the engine coolant temperature sensor (3L8Z-12A648-A). Since both sensors are in the same chamber I decided to swap them to eliminate the cross wiring. I also test fit the connectors for clearance and there is just enough when oriented with the connector tab receiver facing forward. (They are not correct in the above photo). One unique problem I have is that one of the housing retaining bolts is corroded to the bushing that prevents over tightening the plastic housing (specified torque is 8 ft-lbs). The bolt came out with the bushing so I'm soaking it over night in PB Blaster.

My other concern is the different method for sealing the base of the housing. The metal housing has a deep groove and a matching gasket while the stock housing has a considerably wider recess and a matching gasket.

The mating surface of the head is flat and I assume the thin edge of the gasket widens as it is compressed by the mounting bolts pulling the housing to the head. But I doubt there is a comparable amount of gasket area in contact for sealing. I checked the OEM equivalent part number (1L2Z-8255AA) for the supplied FelPro gasket and Tasca Ford's database shows it to be the correct part number for 2001 Ranger/Explorer Sport/Sport Trac thru 2010 Explorer/Sport Trac and 2011 Ranger. Just to be safe I plan to apply Red RTV to the inner and outer edge of the gasket.

Since I currently have carpal tunnel symptoms in both hands I was unable to push the clips in with my fingers so I used one of my favorite leverage tools: an old drum brake adjuster.

The sensor can still rotate with little difficulty when the clips are installed to achieve the correct orientation. (Sensor orientation shown correctly in above photo).

 

[thermohousing]

I would not recommend using rtv under the lower housing oring, the oring does widen during when the bolts are tightened. The plastic groove you are measuring against is on an old unit. My groove matches a new ford plastic housing. The clips to in tight and if you use a pair of pliers to squeeze them in works well. The metal housing does not distort and warp like the plastic one did. I tore several plastic housing apart that we're used and was amazed at how much of the plastic was distorted. Let me know if you have any problems with your installation, Im glad to assist. Great pics bye the way and thankyou for trying my product.

 

[2000StreetRod]

pleased at this point

So far I am pleased with the metal lower housing and wish the metal upper piece had been available for purchase so I could install both at the same time. I also wish that I had purchased new mounting bolts from the dealer when I purchased the new sensors and retaining clips. I don't want to wait another week for new bolts so I'll cut the bushing off the old bolt if soaking in PB Blaster doesn't allow release.

A common source of coolant leak in the 2nd generation plastic housings was the sensor threaded bushing. When a sensor was unscrewed or tightened the bushing could spin and subsequently leak. That's why I epoxied the threaded bushings to the housing. Another leakage source was the housing splitting. I detected no distortion or splitting in my old housing. However, I torqued it according to specifications and to my knowledge the engine has never overheated and the pressure cap has maintained the corrrect pressure.

I wonder if leakage problems with the later design are partially due to the new method of sealing the base. Both mating surfaces (bottom of housing and top of head) are machined flat. I will thoroughly clean the head surface before installing the housing. However, I still intend to increase the gasket sealing area with a small bead of RTV. It may increase future removal difficulty but I'd prefer that over a leak.

Edit: This morning I found another reason for using RTV with the base sealing gasket. It is a fairly loose fit in the groove and might fall out when attempting to insert the lower spout into the hose from the water pump. I applied RTV to the groove prior to inserting the gasket to hold it in place.

 

[thermohousing]

That's true a dab of rtv on two sides of the lower housing slot is good idea. I started adding a page of helpful installation hints to each order and that was one of them. The seal with Shrink and expand Into the groove when the housing is tightened down against the engine.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Housing installed

I received the new lower housing hold down bolts today (PN W702527S437) so I continued the replacement of my stock plastic housing with a metal one.
First I torqued the bolts to 96 lb-in (8 lb-ft).

Then I tightened the lower hose clamp, installed the heater hose with clamp, and connected the sensor connectors. I installed the thermostat and the O ring on top of it. I thought about replacing the made in China thermostat (92 deg C/198 deg F) but according to past datalogs it has worked very well to maintain a constant temperature under normal driving conditions.

The paper gasket came next.

I wire brushed the old bolts and added a drop of oil before installing the cover.

I am satisfied with the product and will purchase a replacement metal cover when one becomes available.