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more power with 347

I was searching around and reading more and more about the stroker kits for the 302. jtsmith was kind enough to lead me to a site

http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_347.htm

Currently with the many things i want to do, i decided to scrap the idea of buying a bike and use the money for a 347 stroker kit. From the above website, i see they sell the kits and imo for the power gains you get, its a good price. Now the issue is...which one do i get? street fighter or street fighter gt? Also what other things will i have to do? Will i need to take my block to get milled or what? ANy info on this will be great.

oh yeah, an average cost on the labor to do this would be great too ;)
Thanks
 



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I've heard the 331 is a little more reliable/durable. I'd look into that as well.
 






Do a little research on some of the mustang forums. You should find more than enough 347 info there.

Youre planning a build around the 347 block right? Because, just adding the stroker kit with stock h/c/i wouldnt be worth much.

If youre are planning a full 347 build it might just be easier to get a crate motor, unless you have a hook up or are planning on going the budget route with used parts.

Actually, the crate motor might not be a great idea, because if this is going in an explorer youre gonna want to build the motor specifically for that. Tons of flat, low end torque, rather than top end, peak power.
 






Actually, the 347 is off the sportstsman 302 block, which is identical to the explorer block.( i bought a new sportsman block) There is some machining required for clearance, but it is the same. 4.030 bore-3.4" stroke. you can do a 342 with standard bore 4.00"
331 ci is 4.030 bore 3.25 stroke--326 ci waith standard bore 4.00"
The 347 is good for more torque, while the 331 does give a few more high rpm hp
The 347 reliabilty( oil burning) issues have been addressed, by moving the piston pin out of the oil ring groove,It wasn't a problem except for racing engines, but for piece of mind do not get the earlier piston rod combination they will first try to sell you. Make sure you address this point.
I would just be sure to get the following
Forged crankshaft
Forged pistons
h-beam or lightwieght rods
And while you are at it, heads machined to take stud mounted rocker arms (pedestals suck over 6000 rpm's, they break)
Also, because of the extensive machining, I recommend a good engine builder for the assembly phase of your engine. They know the trick that will keep your engine going. Because of this cost, a crate motor is a good option
Let me know what I can do to help
 






i will stay tuned, i am building a 331 stroker. man monte me and you are going to have almost identical rides, i jsut have to convince you to chop the back.

lates see we both are currently working on:

parts for sas
stroker motor
snorkel

both have:

3" bl, tt, aal (U have shackles)
33s

damn thats tight!

my projects might have slowed b/c i have to save up for the kid, i might be able to splurge a lil b/c i have free medical, thanks to the military!

later man
Chris
 






So i can have a 342 without having to mill the block or i would have to get the block milled?

Im going to start calling around next week and see how much labor will run me. if im lucky, i know a family friend who builds his own engines for mud trucks, i may be able to ask if he can help.
 






There is still some machining required on all strokers, with or without overbore.
The crank throw is such thet the bottom of bores, and the bottom of block need clearancing for the crank throw increase.
 






jt, in your honest opinion...would it be cheaper to buy the block with everthing installed in it already or not to?
What camshaft would you recommend. I'd like to keep torque down low as well.

as a side note...do we have have long blocks or short blocks?
 












FROADER said:
Say what? If you don't want any more torque, leave the stock engine alone.


lol.....down low, in the power band. Like i dont want 300+ torque hitting near redline. In area around 2500-3000 rpm. Come on man, you know better than to think i would want to keep my torque numbers low. As i said in a lot of post, there is no such thing as too much power.
 












First nice name. I built a 331 for my mustang a year or so ago. For me it was cheaper to get the short block already done. Then I bolted my heads and other stuff on. Tons of places make strokers. I got mine from Keith Kraft racing. Unless your trying to make crazy horsepower the stock block should be fine, 500rwhp is about the limit of a stock block. What are you trying to do what are your goals? Like said above if your going to bolt all your stock stuff to the 347 you won't see much of a gain. Not for 3000 anyway. You would be better of getting a supercharger for close to the same money and make more power and torque.
 






[QUOTE='97 V8]lol.....down low, in the power band. Like i dont want 300+ torque hitting near redline. In area around 2500-3000 rpm. Come on man, you know better than to think i would want to keep my torque numbers low. As i said in a lot of post, there is no such thing as too much power.[/QUOTE]

The bigger cubes you go, the more torque you're going to build down low. You could go with the 342 as an alternative to a 347. If you don't plan on a power adder, I'd say just get the 347. But with any stroker, you going to have to bore and do some machine work. Not just a remove and bolt in. For the people that have done it, I've heard it was well worth it. I had plans to do a 349 stroker, but everytime I started saving money for it, something happened to the X and I had to spend everything to get it fixed. It got old, and I lost interest in it.
 






BeauJ said:
The bigger cubes you go, the more torque you're going to build down low. You could go with the 342 as an alternative to a 347. If you don't plan on a power adder, I'd say just get the 347. But with any stroker, you going to have to bore and do some machine work. Not just a remove and bolt in. For the people that have done it, I've heard it was well worth it. I had plans to do a 349 stroker, but everytime I started saving money for it, something happened to the X and I had to spend everything to get it fixed. It got old, and I lost interest in it.
Actually, my opinion , not to disagree totaly
the slight overbore will help a lot to unshroud the intake valve.


I have done quite a few things to achieve vacuum down low (torque) with my x-cam
installed 4 degrees retarded
The most dramatic improvement for low rpm driveability was to choke down the cold air intake, beleive it or not
I have a big mouth maf with 83 mm outlet, running to a 3" intake tube, then a 75mm throttle body
Idle is 900 rpm's 16 inches of vacuum
Anyone who says an e or x cam suck is wrong, they have a nice mustang exhaust note also. more of a musical note, than a growl

Considering the many trips back and forth, and the confusion as to who guaratees what, I'd get a complete crate engine and torque converter combo from 1 vendor if possible. You'll get a good combo.
However if you spend a lot of time, and are confident with the vendors and mahine shop, that route will give the best "possible" combo, at less cost sometimes

Now about the block question

A short block assmbly usually is the block and rotating assembly with a camshaft, where a long block is a complete engine with heads and oilpan

You have a "small" block ford engine
do not get a taller deck height block (351w) it will not fit without extensive fab work

Now hear this first and beleive later
I am getting better gas mileage now, than with the 5.0
I was at a best of 19 mpg, but have done 24 mpg on a still day 60 degree road trip, but hiway mpg is 22 average
The stroke increase gives so much more torque, and piston speed, if you keep your foot out of it it increases efficiency dramatically
Jon
 






What did everyone who's done the 347 deal with the balance issue? The 302 balancer is 50 oz but a 347 is looking for a 28 oz? Did y'all rebalance the crank for 50 or machine the balancer for 28?
 






Why try to piece together a stroker kit into your factory block, so much room for error here!
Look into crate engines, seriously most have a warranty and the combo of parts have been proven, likely also save $$$

"do we have short or long blocks?"

friggin classic quote right there..........I have both, one under the other....
 






www.tandlengines.com

I am buying my 347 from them. 400hp/410 ft.lbs of torque. $3,600....check out the site....add another ~600 or so, upgrade the pistons from Hyper's to Forged, and a lighter Pin package...MM&FF did a write up on this EXACT package last month....I'm sold on it...

No need for a Forged Crank in a Stock Block, IMO.

Ryan
 






Not exactly answering the question here. Are the 347 kits, whether kit or short block, being balanced to use 50 explorer damper or are you working out some other solution?
 






Todd
I had to get an eexplorer pulley-dampner, custom made for 28 oz, It was extra add on for my engine yes. I sent coast high a pic and they matched it. I believe they made a 98 mustang pulley work. Is it the same? I know it is a mod engine, not sure of balance weight.
 



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Got any pictures of the damper assembly? Sounds interesting.
 






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