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My BII Project
- Thread starter SBJ420
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SBJ420
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- City, State
- Windsor NS
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- 95 XLT
yeah maybe fiberglass? I have no idea, never used fiberglass for anything yet. Another question here,
WHen my truck is on stands I can get my front d-sahft in, but when its down on the tires I cannot get it in. Very close to getting over where it bolts in but can only do it when its on jack stands. Now if I put my drive shaft in when its on stands, will it bind up when I start to flex a little bit? Or is it okay? This is somthing I dont want to "try out" to see if it works.
WHen my truck is on stands I can get my front d-sahft in, but when its down on the tires I cannot get it in. Very close to getting over where it bolts in but can only do it when its on jack stands. Now if I put my drive shaft in when its on stands, will it bind up when I start to flex a little bit? Or is it okay? This is somthing I dont want to "try out" to see if it works.
- Joined
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- NORTH IDAHO, 7B
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- B2 "Slightly" Modified
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- FOURTEN
do a search for ranger pulled bedsides on google and some of the ranger forums, pulling the BII bed sides will be real similar
The hose you have now for your snorkel may be sufficient, I would test it out and see, the 2.9L doesnt suck that much air, but the longer the hose the more diameter is needed to move more air.
Get familiar with fiberglass, sheet metal and bondo if you want to really finish up your chop.
I think the plan for my BII is to keep the top, but have soft windows and a custom two piece tailgate, where the upper portion comes off.....but we'll see what I decide when it comes time to build my cage
The hose you have now for your snorkel may be sufficient, I would test it out and see, the 2.9L doesnt suck that much air, but the longer the hose the more diameter is needed to move more air.
Get familiar with fiberglass, sheet metal and bondo if you want to really finish up your chop.
I think the plan for my BII is to keep the top, but have soft windows and a custom two piece tailgate, where the upper portion comes off.....but we'll see what I decide when it comes time to build my cage
- Joined
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- City, State
- NORTH IDAHO, 7B
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- B2 "Slightly" Modified
- Callsign
- FOURTEN
sounds like you need to have your driveshaft cut to size, it should fit without compressing the slip yokoe 100% at ride height (more like 50% compressed)
If the slip yoke is compressed 100% and it wont fit, dont force it, instead take it and the truck to a driveline shop, have them measure your yoke to yoke and rebuild your d shaft at the correct length, about $150 around here
If the slip yoke is compressed 100% and it wont fit, dont force it, instead take it and the truck to a driveline shop, have them measure your yoke to yoke and rebuild your d shaft at the correct length, about $150 around here
SBJ420
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okay thanks alot! I have a place through work that deals with Indus. trucks and cranes that will do it for $40 though are accound at work
Nice and cheap and it will be very well done
Thanks for the info, it could have been a mess!
Nice and cheap and it will be very well done
Thanks for the info, it could have been a mess!
SBJ420
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okay so this worked out real nice so far, first time I have used a angel grinder. I cut the brace on the sides and than just beat it with a hammer untill it bent up than just grinded away and it is closed up. Now I am not going to just leave it like that but its a start. Here it is, and a pic of the truck out of the car port
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- City, State
- Martinsburg WV
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 84 BII "Li'l Samson"
Nice so far. I'd really like to see you invest in a mig welder and clean those cut areas up and weld some skin on them. That back part where you cut the roof off would be so simple. Just place some cardboard on top of the cut, trace and transfer that to some 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal. Cut out with some snips and then start spot welding in on top of cut. Then the top do the same. I may post some of my pics later or just go thru my build and you can see the areas where I did this.
Now with that said, the other way would be resin and fiberglass. It is very simple to work with. That back area near the tail light where you cut off roof support would have to be filled in with some kind of backing up to about a 1/4'" or so below your cut. Then buy some of the gorilla hair fiberglass that has all the coarse fiberglass strands in it. Or yo can buy just the resin and then buy the coarse fiberglass. Not the close woven matt stuff. Then you will pull apart the coarse fiberglass and mix with the resin. Kinda like what reinforcing steel bars does to concrete when poured over it. Mix in your hardener and then just slap it on. The coarse fiberglass will stick out of the mixture, but this will be grinded down within minutes. You will amaze yourself with what you did. Maybe you can wedge some sheet metal down into that hole to lay the fiberglass on. At the edges you can even get some fiberglass webbing and saturate with the resin and lay over the top and around the edges. Then just sand. The webbing is about 2 inches wide. Just lay part over the top where you have already applied the mixture and then overlap the sides. But remember it's no big deal if it's not right the first time. And believe me it won't. So just sand away and redo.
I did this method when I filled in the bottom rear bulhead behind the seats where it meets the floor. It really smoothed it out.
Keep it up.
And 410, you know your going to chop your top don't ya HA HA
By chopping the top were just making the stocks ones more valuable.
Now with that said, the other way would be resin and fiberglass. It is very simple to work with. That back area near the tail light where you cut off roof support would have to be filled in with some kind of backing up to about a 1/4'" or so below your cut. Then buy some of the gorilla hair fiberglass that has all the coarse fiberglass strands in it. Or yo can buy just the resin and then buy the coarse fiberglass. Not the close woven matt stuff. Then you will pull apart the coarse fiberglass and mix with the resin. Kinda like what reinforcing steel bars does to concrete when poured over it. Mix in your hardener and then just slap it on. The coarse fiberglass will stick out of the mixture, but this will be grinded down within minutes. You will amaze yourself with what you did. Maybe you can wedge some sheet metal down into that hole to lay the fiberglass on. At the edges you can even get some fiberglass webbing and saturate with the resin and lay over the top and around the edges. Then just sand. The webbing is about 2 inches wide. Just lay part over the top where you have already applied the mixture and then overlap the sides. But remember it's no big deal if it's not right the first time. And believe me it won't. So just sand away and redo.
I did this method when I filled in the bottom rear bulhead behind the seats where it meets the floor. It really smoothed it out.
Keep it up.
And 410, you know your going to chop your top don't ya HA HA
By chopping the top were just making the stocks ones more valuable.
SBJ420
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Alright thats some good info to go with. I would love to get a mig but $$$ and a trip to mexico in the plans..... I will get one sooner than later, I am thinking in the summer time I will get one. But for now this fiberglass sounds real good. Now when you say "filled in with some kind of backing up to about a 1/4'"" do you mean like some foam of some sorts? The stuff you spray in from the can from a tube and it expands?
Thanks agian for the info
Thanks agian for the info
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I'm no body man, but that's the idea. Just as long as the resin does not have some kind if interaction with the foam. Like it may eat it
You can always try a test area and see if it works.
SBJ420
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okay good stuff, I am going to be looking into that this week.
I took all my old weather striping off from around the rear hatch and off the top that I cut off and put it around the truck where the window mounted, I also got it to fit around the top of the truck but not around the beams. I am going to go and try to find some new weather striping that I can use, I may try and make it so that the beams on the top are tapered down so that I can put the striping around the whole choped part of the truck. But not back where the rear beams are, I am going to try and fill it in and work this fiber glass way first.
here is where I took the striping from.
and put it here
I took all my old weather striping off from around the rear hatch and off the top that I cut off and put it around the truck where the window mounted, I also got it to fit around the top of the truck but not around the beams. I am going to go and try to find some new weather striping that I can use, I may try and make it so that the beams on the top are tapered down so that I can put the striping around the whole choped part of the truck. But not back where the rear beams are, I am going to try and fill it in and work this fiber glass way first.
here is where I took the striping from.
and put it here
MoabB2
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SBJ420
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so I got the rear hatch done a LITTLE bit today, just cut off the rear window. Not sure if this is the way I am going to go. Let me know what you think or any ideas!
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I like it like that and think you should make it work like a tailgate. Joe93 did that to his explorer that he chopped up and it turned out great.
SBJ420
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SO I am going to get some new tires this week, I have three different types in my $$$ range. Anyone have any input on what tire is better?
Procomp Mud - Around $260 canadian, buy three get one free
Handkook Dynapro MT RT03 - around $280 each Canadian
Big O M/T - Around $270 Each Canadian
Procomp Mud - Around $260 canadian, buy three get one free
Handkook Dynapro MT RT03 - around $280 each Canadian
Big O M/T - Around $270 Each Canadian
SBJ420
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got to do a little work tonight, I did some more work on the intake snorkel. I cut through the dash, and though the air vent than down behind the glove box, so this way I can mount my computer do the door of the glove box and still have the snorkel hidden hehind the dash. The glove box will no longer be a glove box. Might just get a plate to put over it or just use the face of the glove box. Here are some pics, what do you think?
I used a 2.1/2" hole saw bit with a drill to cut the holes clean, it was fast and easy
Now if I use like a ram air top on this will it help? Or does it matter much, by ram air I mean like a scoop pointing the way I am driving so its ramming air down?
I used a 2.1/2" hole saw bit with a drill to cut the holes clean, it was fast and easy
Now if I use like a ram air top on this will it help? Or does it matter much, by ram air I mean like a scoop pointing the way I am driving so its ramming air down?
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- Joined
- March 13, 2005
- Messages
- 7,283
- Reaction score
- 21
- City, State
- Martinsburg WV
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 84 BII "Li'l Samson"
How about a Ranger tailgate. This one is off a 98 Ranger. The first pic shows that I used the same hinges of the Ranger. But you would have to do some fab work above the tailights being there's nothing there but air. You said you don't have a welder, but this is something you can do later once you get one. Also on my B11 that latch were the stock hatch door hooked-up works fine for the Ranger tailgate and also that cable support hooks-up. Just give me a shout if I can help.
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