OE Electric Fan (condenser fan?)

[Number4]

I see this item available from Dorman. It appears to me to be an AC Condender fan to me, though it's listed as a radiator fan. That would most likely mount between the condenser and the radiator.

Has anyone seen one of these as OE?
What controls it?
Where does it plug into?


Dorman - 629-146
OE - 1L2Z 8C607 AC

 

[boominXplorer]

Only seen them in Lincoln Aviators. They are used to make sure a/c temps stay low inside.

 

[Number4]

I'd think Aviators only as well, but the one image is from Fordparts.com using a 2005 Explorer.

I'll have to look at an Aviator more closely at a wrecking yard, haven't seen one with it there either.

 

[dgr6853]

I'd think Aviators only as well, but the one image is from Fordparts.com using a 2005 Explorer.

I'll have to look at an Aviator more closely at a wrecking yard, haven't seen one with it there either.

I just did the fan swap on my 2003 Lincoln aviator. Not sure which fan I used it was either a mark 8 fan or a thunderbird fan. In any case I wired the relay kit to the harness the plugged into the auxiliary fan, which I removed, and mounted the new fan. Im going to go out tonight to see the part number of fan number on the fan itself---more for my sanity. The fan was mounted between the radiator and the fan shroud. The Aviator has been running pretty cool for the most part. However, I was idling in a parking lot today and it heated to 240 degrees before I shut if off. The gauge went to 3/4's of the way up and then shut it off. I always have my scan plugged into my obdII and its a bluetooth unit that I use my phone with. thats when I realized that it was 240 degrees. I restarted it and the fan came on but wouldn't drop temp till I held the rpms at about 1000...she idles at about 550 to 650...550 a little low.

I am going to try to burp the system again to make sure that their isn't any air in the system as I think this may have caused the overheating because in my garage I I let it idle for 40 mins and it didn't overheat, when I put the whole thing back together.

 

[Number4]

The auxiliary fan may only come on when the AC is running. Have you tested it, to see if it comes on with temp? I wouldn't drive it until I knew.

Also, the fans you may have put on, both have an in-rush of over 100 amps, not sure the aux. fan setup is designed to handle that. What relay setup did you install?

 

[jd4242]

The auxiliary fan may only come on when the AC is running. Have you tested it, to see if it comes on with temp? I wouldn't drive it until I knew.

Also, the fans you may have put on, both have an in-rush of over 100 amps, not sure the aux. fan setup is designed to handle that. What relay setup did you install?

X2

The stock fan does only come on for ac or when overheating..the wiring for it cant support the amperage that the mark or tbird fans pulls..

 

[dgr6853]

I used a kit from pep boys to run the fan. The kit had two inputs for triggering the relay. one input is not currently being used because It goes to the temp sending unit that came with the kit...couldnt get that to work correctly. however, the other line goes to the AC compressor for turning the fan on when the AC is turned on.

I cut the pigtail off of the original auxiliary fan and connected that to the Relay kit, for positive feed to trip the relay and turn the fan on, and if I need to run the fan and its not turning on then I can manually run it with the other lead, not being used, that was supposed to go to the temp sending unit.

Currently when the temp hits 200 or 210, I can't remember which, the computer attempts to turn on the Auxiliary fan and that trips the relay which turns the fan on. The computer runs the aux fan circuit till the temp reads 190. I want to say that it turns on at 200. In any case, if I turn the AC on, while at these temps the fan turns on. For now things seem to be working.

What I want to do is find a temp sending unit that will screw into the burp screw plug on the crossover tube to trigger the relay.

I also want to get a better kit from DCcontrols. Time and money will dictate when that happens.

 

[jd4242]

I used a kit from pep boys to run the fan. The kit had two inputs for triggering the relay. one input is not currently being used because It goes to the temp sending unit that came with the kit...couldnt get that to work correctly. however, the other line goes to the AC compressor for turning the fan on when the AC is turned on.

I cut the pigtail off of the original auxiliary fan and connected that to the Relay kit, for positive feed to trip the relay and turn the fan on, and if I need to run the fan and its not turning on then I can manually run it with the other lead, not being used, that was supposed to go to the temp sending unit.

Currently when the temp hits 200 or 210, I can't remember which, the computer attempts to turn on the Auxiliary fan and that trips the relay which turns the fan on. The computer runs the aux fan circuit till the temp reads 190. I want to say that it turns on at 200. In any case, if I turn the AC on, while at these temps the fan turns on. For now things seem to be working.

What I want to do is find a temp sending unit that will screw into the burp screw plug on the crossover tube to trigger the relay.

I also want to get a better kit from DCcontrols. Time and money will dictate when that happens.

Using the OE fan power to trigger for the ac lead is fine as long as your relay has its own power source . .

You dont want to put a sensor in where you burp/bleed the system . .the fan is spose to control the water temp in the radiator , not the water temps in the motor..the thermostat controls the water temp in the motor,if you put you fan sensor there it will read the same temp basically all the time because the thermostat will keep the motor water temp around 185*ish.

A fan sensor should read the temp of water going into the motor only,if you have a prob sensor it should be near the outlet..they sell a straight tube fitting that you can cut your hose in 2 then connect them with the fitting and the fitting has a threaded port in it for you to screw a sensor into it..ambient air flow will mostly keep the radiator water below 185* except at idle or under heavy loads..only when the radiator water reaches above 185* then should the fan turn on.i typically set mine slightly lower than the thermostat so it keeps the water in the radiator 10-20* cooler than motor..the thermostat will open and close keeping the motor at its set temp


Many wire fans wrong it causes the fan to run for extended times or when its not even needed..

 

[jd4242]

I have mine direct wired in my ranger but bought this kit for my aviator , figured id give it a try..you wire it to the high speed only side of the fan..it soft starts ,starts at 10* under set temp and runs at 60% till full temp is reached..then runs at 100% and runs for 30 seconds after you shut the truck off..also has 2 inputs,one for AC and one for manual switch on..

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/flx-33054

 

[dgr6853]

Yeah, for now as long as its not overheating I think it will be fine. However, I want better harness and relay because I'm sure it will see pretty heavy usage in the summer. I live in whats called Normal....near Sacramento, CA and the temps here in the summer often exceed 100 for about a month. then they stay in the 90's for the rest of the summer and I am an AC HOG. LOL

 

[Number4]

I used the 31173 I believe, with the inline hose adapter. Instead of hooking up the AC input, I installed a rocker switch (being that my AC is part of the CanBus anyway.)

I flip the switch when I push the AC button (non freeway) or when at a light or stop and go traffic.

What I found without the manual switch, is that the fan would come on, get the temp in check then turn off. Within 30 seconds or so it'd come back on then repeat. In Sac, this will be a common occurance and put a strain on the system. A manual switch is needed IMO.

Most fans have a built in sensor that rests against the radiator. This "sensor" or resister actually limits the power to the fan causing the lower speed. High speed just bypasses the resister. If you remove these resisters, both power wires supply full speed. The resister also allows for a "soft start" and when full speed is needed, there's no in rush spike.

Google the electric fan Volvo conversion. (Here) It uses the fan relays off certain Volvos (double relay setup and a water sensor off a BMW. The BMW sensor is designed to send two signals. One at like 195° (low speed) and one at say 205°. Only issue is mounting the BMW sensor. Some older Saabs came with a lower radiator hose adapter that has a bung that fits these sensors, but this adapter is impossible to find.

 

[jd4242]

I used the 31173 I believe, with the inline hose adapter. Instead of hooking up the AC input, I installed a rocker switch (being that my AC is part of the CanBus anyway.)

I flip the switch when I push the AC button (non freeway) or when at a light or stop and go traffic.

What I found without the manual switch, is that the fan would come on, get the temp in check then turn off. Within 30 seconds or so it'd come back on then repeat. In Sac, this will be a common occurance and put a strain on the system. A manual switch is needed IMO.

Most fans have a built in sensor that rests against the radiator. This "sensor" or resister actually limits the power to the fan causing the lower speed. High speed just bypasses the resister. If you remove these resisters, both power wires supply full speed. The resister also allows for a "soft start" and when full speed is needed, there's no in rush spike.

Google the electric fan Volvo conversion. (Here) It uses the fan relays off certain Volvos (double relay setup and a water sensor off a BMW. The BMW sensor is designed to send two signals. One at like 195° (low speed) and one at say 205°. Only issue is mounting the BMW sensor. Some older Saabs came with a lower radiator hose adapter that has a bung that fits these sensors, but this adapter is impossible to find.

The volvo ones seem to work pretty well,know a couple people who have used them