Preparation for SAS in 1999 Sport

[CodePoet]

Cast wedges can't be removed. You can still shorten the axle though. Just do a google search and there are some good writeups.

I used a full length d44/9" in mine. Considering I had to do and SOA it wasn't really much more work (i didn't think). Also, 9" 3rds already setup can be found pretty cheap and they're easy to pop in and out.

 

[gavin]

Because the C wedges are cast, they are still removable right? I am looking at it and weighing out the full length option or choppin it.

no.
cast means they were cast with the tube. They are not removable.

older axles had the wedges welded on, which could be cut off.

 

[wickedrigs]

So while doing some more research about my axle and trying to figure out what the next step will be, I found some extremely useful sites. I am trying to figure out which axle mine is and what year of vehicle it came out of. (Don't think that I am liking the answers I am finding)

My axle part number, or BOM, is 610066-2. When I go to the website below, it doesn't have the information that I am looking for.

http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?cvsp~debill~search

The site listed below also has a ton of very useful information, some of it doesn't excite me much either. I don't think that my C's can be removed.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

If anyone has any input on this, please help me out. I want to chop this axle to the same length as an EB axle or may even to the same length as my 8.8 and have custom shafts built. All you axle guru's please chime in here. If the C's cannot be removed, then what is my next step other then going full width?

 

[CodePoet]

Shorten it.

about half way down

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/narrowing_a_ford_dana44.htm

 

[lifeguard379]

 

[wickedrigs]

Shorten it.

about half way down

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/narrowing_a_ford_dana44.htm

Thanks CodePoet! The first time I read this thread (about a month ago) I did not pay any attention to which axle they used because I hadn't had mine yet. I am now relieved after looking at it again. I guess I need to go buy a stack of cutoff wheels and get started. I hope to have the C removed by the end of this week.... as I will only have a few hours here and there to start on it.

 

[wickedrigs]

This may be a dumb question, but I assume that the knuckle is going to come off with the wedge right. Can that be removed to be welded back on?

 

[IZwack]

About removing those knuckles - get angry, get very angry, and then grip that sledge hammer like you are trying to transfer your red blood cells into the hammer from your hand through osmosis.

 

[wickedrigs]

About removing those knuckles - get angry, get very angry, and then grip that sledge hammer like you are trying to transfer your red blood cells into the hammer from your hand through osmosis.

LMFAO!!! I remember helping a friend in high school do this. Although I was mainly there for moral support and his dad had a fridge full of cold beer, I watched him cuss and throw the sledge for a long time. Just when we thought they wouldn't budge....they fell off with one last swing.

 

[IZwack]

On my current D60 axle, I accidentally let go off the sledge hammer which resulted in a nice vent hole in the drywall.

 

[nssj2]

Just to clear things up for people who don't like clicking links, the cast wedges are called that because they are cast as one piece, not cast onto the axle. They can be removed, it's just not very fun. as much not fun, in fact, as removing the knuckles. Luckily you only have to do the passenger side.

Im curious as to what you're doing for wheels, since I assume you're going narrowed. Right now you have a bolt pattern of 5 on 4.5 in back, and 5 on 5.5 up front.

 

[Turdle]

Just to clear things up for people who don't like clicking links, the cast wedges are called that because they are cast as one piece, not cast onto the axle. They can be removed, it's just not very fun. as much not fun, in fact, as removing the knuckles. Luckily you only have to do the passenger side.

Im curious as to what you're doing for wheels, since I assume you're going narrowed. Right now you have a bolt pattern of 5 on 4.5 in back, and 5 on 5.5 up front.

An adapter can be run on the rear. At least I hope so because I have them.

My 93 has a later disc brake rear axle. If there is a width difference it is not noticeable

 

[wickedrigs]

Just to clear things up for people who don't like clicking links, the cast wedges are called that because they are cast as one piece, not cast onto the axle. They can be removed, it's just not very fun. as much not fun, in fact, as removing the knuckles. Luckily you only have to do the passenger side.

Im curious as to what you're doing for wheels, since I assume you're going narrowed. Right now you have a bolt pattern of 5 on 4.5 in back, and 5 on 5.5 up front.

More then likely going to just run an adapter in the rear. I am wanting to shorten the axle to match the rear WMS dimension with the adapters.

 

[wickedrigs]

So while reading some other posts and information on the forums and the net, I am curious as to which steering box to use. I have seen many of you are using a Toyota box because it can be easily converted to hydraulic assist and have seen many others that are using an earlier Explorer/Ranger/Ford TAURUS steering box. I know that the steering and axle geometry is going to be the hardest modification to do so I wanted to try and get a handle on this as soon as possible.

I know that I stated that I did not want to go extreme with all of this, but you all know how that goes. Once you have it all tore apart, might as well make it stout. When in doubt...build it stout.

 

[wickedrigs]

Nobody.........?

 

[IZwack]

I think the pros and cons of those steering boxes were included in the threads you read (one of which you already mentioned - the hydro assist)

 

[wickedrigs]

I think the pros and cons of those steering boxes were included in the threads you read (one of which you already mentioned - the hydro assist)

IZwack....I just read your thread yesterday. I think I am going to go with air shocks because of you. Nice rig!!! So I am guessing that the Toyota steering box will be the choice here. Any specific mak/model desired?

 

[wickedrigs]

UPDATE.....

A friend of mine has a couple of 9" rear-ends layin around and is not going to use them. He is giving me the pick of the litter! So I would say that I am either going to have a 9" to sell soon or will be going full width. Any thoughts....pros or cons? Lookin for some feedback about full width vs chopped 44 and stock 8.8.

 

[gavin]

one con to full-width would be the amount of tire sticking outside the fender. Depending on particular laws in your area, and how strict LEOs are, you would need some pretty big fender flares.

also depending on trails, full-width won't allow you to fit on narrower trails that you could navigate with the chopped axles.

pros to full width would be wider stance. Can get a bit more off-camber without having to worry about tipping due to added width.

 

[wickedrigs]

one con to full-width would be the amount of tire sticking outside the fender. Depending on particular laws in your area, and how strict LEOs are, you would need some pretty big fender flares.

also depending on trails, full-width won't allow you to fit on narrower trails that you could navigate with the chopped axles.

pros to full width would be wider stance. Can get a bit more off-camber without having to worry about tipping due to added width.

Gavin,

I agree with you on all of these pros and cons. Thanks for the input. I guess I should have asked that last question differently. I am mainly more concerned in the pros and cons of installation between the full widths vs a chopped 44 and 8.8.

Chopping
- I know that shaving the 44 in preparation for the chopping is going to be hell.
- Pinon angle will be aquired if I remove both knuckles and castings.
- 4 link could be achieved easier.
- SOA on 8.8 and new perches, gears, locker, adapters.
- Driveline lenghtened.

Full Width
- Won't have to remove the castings.
- Pinon might be a little steeper then desired.
- Wheel bolt patterns would be the same.
- 9" will have to have perches removed, new gears, locker, bearings, seals, $$$$$$
- Drivelines made.

I know that I am missing a ton of the little things, but just wanted to know about any "major" fabrication issues and differences between the two. Thoughts? and Thanks guys.....