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RV Update / Upgrade Thread

I had mentioned on one of my threads (Purchasing 46.5 Acres Near Kingman, AZ) that I had the inverter/charger fail on the RV while camping. Its a Prosine 2.0 made by Xantrex and lasted about 15 years so I can't complain. I purchased a new unit from Xantrex and its being shipped. Most of the camping I do is dry or boondocking. RV has 600 watt solar system along with the inverter so it does very well for extended stays off grid. I pulled the old unit out and don't like the way the batteries are wired, so I think that's going to be a redo and relocation of half of them. RV is a 35' Class A that is a very well maintained 18 years old.
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The batteries for the system are 4 GS2 group size or golf cart batteries. I am upgrading to AGM's because they last twice as long, charge faster, discharge slower and have no maintenance. They are still heavy mothers though, about 65 pounds each. The current set up which was not installed by me has the inverter/charger in the storage compartment directly in front of the entry door, where most of the electronics are located. Good protected spot. There are two batteries in the entry step well, along with the chassis battery. There are two more in the storage compartment directly behind the step well. What I don't like about that is all the weight of the batteries is all in one spot, on one side. I also don't like how it was wired. I am going to relocate the batteries in the storage compartment to the driver side storage compartment directly across from the step well. It will even out the weight distribution, and free up valuable storage real estate since that is one of the few compartments you can easily access with the slides out. That part should be relatively simple; get a new battery box that is in line instead of side by side, mount it and install the batteries.

The wiring should be simple as well. The current set up has one in line 300 amp fuse that is located in the step well. The batteries in the step well connect to that fuse lug with a very short length of 4/0 welding wire, all good. The batteries in the storage compartment connect to that same lug with about a 4-5' length of same type/gauge wire that runs along with the main wiring harness for the coach. Not so good as there is nothing to protect that section of wire from shorting. From the 300 amp fuse is another 5-6' length of same type/gauge wire that goes to the inverter. Also not so good as there is nothing to protect that section of wire from shorting and frying the inverter. To make it much safer, there should be two more 300 amp in line fuses, one at the other set of batteries and one just before the inverter. The wiring from both battery locations should meet at that fuse with a short length of wire to the inverter. The relocated batteries will have the wiring inside the storage area, since its a full width pass through type compartment. I can use the existing wiring from the step well battery location that already goes to the inverter location for that half.

I found everything on eBay, can't believe how much wire has gone up in the past few months. $4 a foot for 4/0.
 



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Guys repairing the RV windows underestimated the job by at lest 12 hours. They didn't realize the windows have a rubber gasket holding them on the inside, and a metal frame on the outside. Most windows are metal on both sides and screw in. These basically press in and then you have to fight the gasket to get it to lay flat. Most of the windows were not square in the cut-outs from the factory, or have shifted. They lined them up nice, and used window sealant urethane to set them in place. They said if anyone has to remove a window, it's gonna be a ***** because they basically glued them in. They are finishing up today. I'm giving them a 10% tip because they are very meticulous for being 19-21 year olds. Windows look great. I didn't realize how badly fogged they were until they were fixed. They are finishing today, day 3.
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I highly recommend the "RV Glass Brothers" out of Hemet if you need any auto or RV window glass repair.
 



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It is a breath of fresh air when I see the younger generation caring about the work they do. I make a point to thank them for their true craftsmanship.
 












Anybody know what the grommet is called that is circled in red in the pic? It's something I never knew I had to have until I saw one. Need one for the electrical cable and water line doors.
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I've done a bunch of searches and can't find them. Someone on a RV site called them a "stirrup" but no success with that search either.
 






I found this. Similar function different design.

 






Did more searching and asked on another forum. It's not a pre-made piece. It's a few pieces of door seal and some metal plate. The plate is welded into the notch and the seal is screwed to the plate. I'll have to fab a couple up. I already have some ideas to make them better than what they did.
 







Has very high end cable gland/guide solutions. I’ll check work later, I might have one or two laying around.
 






RV ran like a champ on the way out to Arizona. Pulled up the grades at least 5 MPH faster than I remember. Sounds/feels like it's running stronger too. Cleaning and turning the MAF so it was properly orientated seemed to work wonders. I checked for codes and got zero.

The solar is charging the batteries much better than with the old controller. I had a movie marathon Saturday night, ran the microwave and didn't notice I had the fridge in AC mode for a few hours and the batteries never dropped below 12 volts.

When I got up this morning, batteries were in boost charge, then went into float by 9AM. I left the inverter on all day today and it's still float charging. I'm going to leave the inverter on for 24 hours and see if the batteries care. I am also going to experiment with running the fridge in AC mode during daylight hours, and switching it back to propane at night. If the panels produce enough power to run the fridge and inverter all day while keeping the batteries charged, it will give me more days before I need to refill the propane tank.
 






RV ran like a champ on the way out to Arizona. Pulled up the grades at least 5 MPH faster than I remember. Sounds/feels like it's running stronger too. Cleaning and turning the MAF so it was properly orientated seemed to work wonders. I checked for codes and got zero.

The solar is charging the batteries much better than with the old controller. I had a movie marathon Saturday night, ran the microwave and didn't notice I had the fridge in AC mode for a few hours and the batteries never dropped below 12 volts.

When I got up this morning, batteries were in boost charge, then went into float by 9AM. I left the inverter on all day today and it's still float charging. I'm going to leave the inverter on for 24 hours and see if the batteries care. I am also going to experiment with running the fridge in AC mode during daylight hours, and switching it back to propane at night. If the panels produce enough power to run the fridge and inverter all day while keeping the batteries charged, it will give me more days before I need to refill the propane tank.
Sounding like you’re working through all the hiccups nicely.
 






I left the inverter on for about 36 hours straight. The batteries remained charged, it basically had no effect. I ran the microwave on inverter last night for 15 minutes total. Batteries went down to 12 volts, but rebounded to 12.8. They were at 12.4 when I went to bed after watching three movies. This morning they have been in absorption mode.

This is pretty good for 380 watts of solar flat mounted on the roof.
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I've seen the controller putting over 20 amps into charging on afternoons here.
 






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