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Scott B's 93 Ranger XLT V8

Scott, I just found this thread. That is sure a nice 5.0 install in your Ranger. I am looking forward to seeing it next Spring in Nevada. Great job!
 



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Scott, I just found this thread. That is sure a nice 5.0 install in your Ranger. I am looking forward to seeing it next Spring in Nevada. Great job!

Thanks, Gary.

I'm looking forward to driving it in Nevada next spring!
 


















I added pictures of the exhaust system to the earlier post.

Here is picture of the end result - the tailpipes.
 

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I replaced the window motor on the driver's door today.

My original one had a short - it was intermittent, but sitting for so long, then using it killed it.

I used a Dorman replacement motor. As you can see in the photo, it is not exactly the same. This motor fits multiple applications. Even the wiring harness need work - not only was it too short (workable, but not ideal), it was wired backwards!

So much for "bolts right on"...
 

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Exhaust Sound Clip

 






I replaced the window motor on the driver's door today.

My original one had a short - it was intermittent, but sitting for so long, then using it killed it.

I used a Dorman replacement motor. As you can see in the photo, it is not exactly the same. This motor fits multiple applications. Even the wiring harness need work - not only was it too short (workable, but not ideal), it was wired backwards!

So much for "bolts right on"...

I did the same thing with my passenger window recently because it stopped working. The factory window motor had threaded holes and the recplacement motor had no threads which required bolts & nuts. In the end the factory motor was fine, it was my regulator and window seals which needed some TLC & lube. The factory motor actually worked better than the replacement after testing both in operation.

Other thing to note was having to drill a hole in the inner sheet metal door skin just below the speaker to get access to the 3rd bolt holding the motor in place. I guess when they build the truck the regulator and motor are put in as an assembly.

Oh and good job with the overall project, your Ranger is awesome!!. I've owned a 1994 and a 2001 Ranger and if it wasn't for having kids I'd still probably have one!
 






I did the same thing with my passenger window recently because it stopped working. The factory window motor had threaded holes and the recplacement motor had no threads which required bolts & nuts. In the end the factory motor was fine, it was my regulator and window seals which needed some TLC & lube. The factory motor actually worked better than the replacement after testing both in operation.

Other thing to note was having to drill a hole in the inner sheet metal door skin just below the speaker to get access to the 3rd bolt holding the motor in place. I guess when they build the truck the regulator and motor are put in as an assembly.

Oh and good job with the overall project, your Ranger is awesome!!. I've owned a 1994 and a 2001 Ranger and if it wasn't for having kids I'd still probably have one!


On my replacement motor, the holes had no threads either - but course threaded sheet metal screws came with it, so I used them. I hope they hold up...

I had already drilled the access hole, having replaced the gearset in this motor twice.

Many kids don't fit to well in a Ranger, but I'm sure a 347-powered Ex is a blast to drive!
 






On my replacement motor, the holes had no threads either - but course threaded sheet metal screws came with it, so I used them. I hope they hold up...

I had already drilled the access hole, having replaced the gearset in this motor twice.

Many kids don't fit to well in a Ranger, but I'm sure a 347-powered Ex is a blast to drive!

There is a lot of torque on those window motors, so if the sheet metal screws don't work then upgrade to bolts and nylock nuts w/washers. I was able to find some of a similar size M8 or something. I like to keep metric on vehicles or machines that come that way wherever possible.

Ya the kids love driving in my truck. I roll around with 3 car seats in the second row. Its a TRUE Sport Utility Vehicle!! does everything I need it to, plus I don't have to baby it being 16+ years old. Its full of needles from this years christmas tree right now. haha:D
 






Here are some pictures of the throttle and TV cables.

At the throttle body, the TV cable is the upper cable, and the throttle cable is the lower one.

In the last picture, the throttle cable is coming through the firewall, and the TV cable is coming up from the transmission.
 

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I drove the truck 200 miles this weekend!

Taking is nice and easy, to break in the engine.

I have a few things to still do (and a couple to redo!) but it runs nice. There are all new noises to learn (and get used to) and plenty of power connected to the go pedal.

Oil changes at 500 and 1000, and new tires at 1000. It really needs the new tires - these have been sitting for a year.
 






Woooooooo......... That's good, :thumbsup: Hey! are you going to scope/bi-pod your Scout? X2 on the comment on the eyes...... suck's to get old eh? :thumbdwn: Michael
 






Woooooooo......... That's good, :thumbsup: Hey! are you going to scope/bi-pod your Scout? X2 on the comment on the eyes...... suck's to get old eh? :thumbdwn: Michael

Yes, I am going to scope it.

I would like to forward mount a low power Leupold.
 






40,000 views!

WooHoo!!!!!!!!!!!
 






Scope

Good choice, a friend has quick dismount rings and the Leupold Scout scope on his Ruger Scout, good combo! I made him a Ching sling for it out of 1" nylon webbing like mine.... they work great once you get the hang of them. Not sure if you can get a larger aperature for the rear sight on the Ruger, I was able to get the largest available twilight one from Williams as it is a Williams sight, plug and play, now I can see it! Michael
 






Fuel Pressure Gauge

The BBK fuel rails I am using do not have a port for checking/relieving fuel pressure. The pressure was one item we were not sure of during the initial engine starting/break-in process.

It is a little hard to see in the picture, but I put a pressure gauge on the input side of the fuel rail, between the fuel line and fuel rail. Aeroquip makes a fitting with a 1/8" NPT hole - perfect for a gauge.
 

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Crossed the 1000 mile mark on the engine.

It's running better now - parts are getting worn in, and the computer is learning. I also passed the smog check over the weekend.

The past 2 tanks I've been running 89 octane - the engine definitely prefers it. I don't know that I want to take any timing out of it, so I may just keep on running 89.
 






..What kind of gas mileage are you getting now city/hwy?
 



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I haven't calculated it yet.

It is better now than when I first started the engine - I think it is comparable to what the tired V6 was getting.

I'm still tweaking things, though. Hopefully things will settle in, and produce better mileage. (I could take the roof rack for around town, too.)
 






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