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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Free Shipping - Motorcraft Air Conditioning Vacuum Control Valves with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Air Conditioning System Control Valves at Summit Racing.
That is the one
I put it in line where the original 1 is just on the line instead of on the ball
All it is for is when the vacuum Is lost in the intake it keeps the vacuum in the ball
So when you go up a long hill your heater vents don't change to defrost mode
so having a brain fart, i was looking at reservoirs on summit (not gonna lie, i ordered one and a pump if all falls apart, best case i return them if my cobbled setup refuses to work). i noticed that they have the same valve thats on a brake booster right on the can. well, hell why didnt i think of that. going to see if this makes a difference or not by putting it on the first one i modified.
also a old new problem came back. went to fix buddys mower deck yesterday. had it in the back of my truck so i needed to move evil. started it, ran for a few seconds then died. tried to restart it and nothing. figured it flooded. pull the plugs to change them later, they didnt look all that bad. thinking about it at work, dont remember hearing the fuel pump cycle. turned the key today, nothing. the holley relay clicks like its suppost to however. what i thought was a relay is something else from the last time it died, and i absolutely LOVE trying to find electrical problems.
the good, found the fuel pump problem...i hope. a wire had wiggled out of a connector i had added inside the center console. either the tabs in the plastic, or barbs on the terminal arent locking in.
the bad, vacuum pump still cycles with the other reservoir i made with the brake booster valve. ill have to see if the tuner can maybe mess with the setting, if not plan B it is.
also have a high idle, hoping the throttle blade might be open i little too much. once again have to ask the tuner, if not i break out the smoker.
marty and jeff from mo's did a little tuning on evil for me today. what sucked was i still dont have the meth kit going so they tuned off what i had. they told me it was pretty close to the last tune they did. i will have to wait for the nozzles to come and hope the guy that sold me it didnt rip me off. iat's still are not where i would want to see them. it is around 20C or 70F here right now. what i did notice was they clime, but also fall fast. she also still has some legs. can swing out the ass and with no notice, but hey if your in control your not having fun!
will see if there are any other problems. going to drive it around a bit to see what shows.
looks pretty much the same as the other pump, but it is about a 1/2 taller. just enough to screw with the way i had the other one mounted. has a pressure switch, a valve and hoses. had to make a few modifications to it to fit. however, after i put power to it, it clicked on. you could also hear when the vacuum was coming to the point it was finished its cycle because of the tone i made, but it is working. i did also get a reservoir but i am going to see how this works first. will take it for a drive around tomorrow......then pull the rad and balancer so i can get that also fixed......
Is the new vacuum pump staying on when it should and off when it should (no more cycling) ?
What happened to radiator and balancer?
The electric vacuum pump is a great idea to allow power brakes with radical cams. Love it!!!
Is the new vacuum pump staying on when it should and off when it should (no more cycling) ?
What happened to radiator and balancer?
The electric vacuum pump is a great idea to allow power brakes with radical cams. Love it!!!
so far yes, no cycling that i have seen. i did a bone head move and by accident use a wire going to my radio for a 12v switch however. i was going to take it for a ride when i got a few 100 feet from my house and noticed a rock hard peddle and a blank stereo screen. turned around and had to rewire it.
as for the radiator and balancer, i had noticed that the belt wanted to walk off the crank pulley towards the back. figured ok, will have to take balancer off and have it shaved a bit, it wanted to walk a complete rib. after i was done fixing my wiring fiasco, i pulled the rad and fans off so i could get to the balancer. before i pulled it however, i wanted to check the alignment of the pulleys. i couldnt figure it out. they were all almost spot on. even the supercharger. called a good friend of mine to have a look (same guy who owns the garage i did the 5L swap in evil). after explaining it to him, and also showing him how they all lined up, he too was stumped. after doing a little messing, we put the belt back on and i spun the motor. almost instantly he could see it walking towards the motor, but on the water pump idler. one revolution basically made the belt move inward on the idler a 1/4 of a inch. dont know why, but i am going to put the old water pump back on and see if this still happens. im also going to call meziere tomorrow and see if they have ever heard of this, and if there is a fix. i really do want to use that pump, but if i cant, i cant.
As it is, the crank lines up with everything. Not sure spacing it with washers would be a good idea, also it has to go backwards not forwards. As for the water pump it’s riding the edge of the backside or the pulley. With the old blower never had the belt try and walk as well. My guess is the water pump might be kicked up a tiny bit making the belt want to slide off.
well buddy nailed it. for what ever reason, the water pump was causing the belt to walk into the side closest to the motor. spent a hour or so putting the old one back on, then bumped the motor. looked at the crank pulley, belt still was in place. put the rad back in, buttoned everything up and prayed. filled with coolant, burped it as best as i could and ran it for i would say 15 mins, belt was still in place.
should have gotten a before and after pic, but when your a tad frustrated, you kinda forget about that stuff lol.
now hopefully this thing will release me from its claws because i have fallen far behind on a bunch of other things around here that need to be finished in just a tad over a month.
oh, bonus points who can tell me what brand of tensioner this is. its not a ford or motocraft and the reason i ask is its the only one that i am able to fit a 8 rib smooth pulley on. i stripped it this last time around and would like to replace it but dont know the brand.
I just literally got off the phone with merzere. They also have never come across that problem. They asked me to make sure the pulley doesn’t walk around and spins fine. Otherwise they asked for me to send it back so they to can take it apart and check everything
finally got to take it for a spin around town.
meh.
the vacuum pump works great. never had a super hard peddle.
the rest....
not really super happy with what was on the display. mind you this was stopped for a bit waiting on traffic. the volts do shot up to around 13.8 at 850 rpm, the oil pressure also goes up. coolant temps are what they are, air/fuel will dance around depending how hard your on it. its the iat's that still have me on the edge still. there are no more excuses for heat soak and other things. granted i still dont have the meth kit running yet. the temps shot up pretty fast with no cooler, but also drop at a good rate once your off it. it wasnt cool out and it wasnt hot either.
Correct, the MAT is the one. I would love to see around 100, 110 driving, 130 after a pull. I don’t think those are unrealistic numbers, just trying to react them is the problem.
