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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

Whats In A Name?

It was hot humid august night. The winds have all but vanished. I was doing my best to keep the sweat out of my eyes. The A/C was dying in my 94 Explorer, lovingly named "Pugly", and there was no relief in sight. I decided it was time to stop throwing good money into bad. I was gonna do the unthinkable,.......I was going to commit the most heinous crime of them all! I was going to trade Pugly in for a newer model! Oh the heart break! The insanity of it all! I couldn't believe the thoughts were even going through my head.

I managed to get the old girl back home, to her resting place. She seemed at ease in her familiar surroundings. I had to come up with an explanation to let her know of my evil plan. So i just gave her that old wink and grin that she likes to see from me as we made it back home from another day of adventure in the treacherous Midwestern terrain. I did my best in hiding my cynical thoughts, as I walked around to her rear flank and gave her that little pat on her bumper, as I always have when we part for the night.

The next morning I gave her a real good bath, cleaned behind her mirrors, and brushed her grill. She still looked pretty good for her age. Oh sure she had the tell tale signs, gravity has got its firm grip on her, and I am not the best cosmetics guy in the world. she didn't seem to mind too much, she still kept her nose up and drove with pride.

After looking at many vehicles I just could not find anything that had the same feel as my old girl. Then it happened! Was I seeing a mirage? Was I so desperate to find another rig that I was blinded by insanity? I found my replacement! I quickly made a sale with the owner, and brought it home.

When I pulled in the driveway, my heart sunk as I looked into the yard to see my 94 looking at me in disbelief. She was sunning herself in the grass looking all shiny and then, she just looked away from me. My heart was tearing in two. I parked the new rig, and walked up to her and gave her a soft spoken "Hello". No reply. I tried to tickle her mirrors, no response. The tension was so great, you could have cut it with a 32 count fine tooth hacksaw. I had to explain to her that she gave me great satisfaction for many years, and we made a terrific team together, but the time has come for her to just relax and enjoy her final days. She finally revved up, and understood, her days as my work horse has ended (so we thought).

I introduced her to her daily driver replacement. The shiny new(er) next generation of her kind. The 95 Explorer XLT. She warmed right up to it. Before you know it they were swapping stories. Now I had to ask her for help. I needed a name for the new ride,
so I went to find her, and what did I see? Those two were grill to grill in the driveway. rubbing chrome! I had to get the water hose out and break them up! Sheesh, she was acting like a girl at the prom dance! I let the name thing drop for awhile.

The new(er) Ex needed to get its shots, and a physical. When I got the word on it's health, I about had a coronary. "What do you mean Doc"! I yelled. "Your kidding right"? I asked. The Doc just shook his head and gathered his tools. As he walked away, He said it had a 50/50 chance of survival. My stomach knotted up, my teeth ground, my heart raced, and I could feel the energy build up as I let it all out, "Why! Why! Why did this have to happen"! I screamed.

The prognostic exam from the doc was as such. It had a blown steering rack, the shocks were gone, the brakes were non existent, front sway bar was cracked in half, the 3rd brake light was out, none of the windows or the moon roof would work, the door locks were broke, the rear end LS clutch pack was burned up, the tires were all in need of replacement, the spare was a Firestone recall and flat, the engine had a nasty tick to it, the TPS was shot, the MAF was corroded, the battery had a dead cell in it, the hood shocks were not working, the rear hatch lock was jammed up and you couldn't open it with out a key in the lock, The carpet was stained to no repair, the rear window wiper didn't want to work, and we could not tell what year its engine swap came from. it was a mess, to say the least.

I went in the house to get my gun. I was gonna just put it out of its misery right there and then. I suddenly realized I was out of ammo, from shooting at the jeep that was in my field. I went to the computer to find a place to buy some cheap ammo, and I stumbled across this website, explorerforum.com that said it could heal any ford Explorer no matter what the problems were! I jumped for joy, I could not believe the things I was reading! I wore out the search button, asked a bunch of questions. I quickly broke out my pen and paper, feverishly writing down things as I was learning! I had found a cure for everything that was wrong with my new transport. It was a Godsend, an angel from the SUV heavens!

I sprung into action. I worked day and night, Pugly was right by my side the entire time, helping me in any way she could. I never seen this side of her, and was really amazed at how well she handled the pressure. She gently squeegeed the sweat out off my fore head with her soft wiper blades as I worked away. After an entire weekend of work, I collapsed. I needed some rest, and so did the 95. The sun crested over the hills, and awoke me to a new day. I shuffled my feet to the window facing the driveway, peeled the drapes gently back, and peered out at the 95. WOW!
It had a its color back, and was looking great! Now as the time went on, (and most of my paychecks), and the selling of almost everything I own, for funds to get the 95 to its former glory.

After some time to reflect on this name thing, I strolled up and whispered into Pugly's passenger side mirror, and she giggled with delight.

I climbed up onto the front bumper in my pajamas and robe half opened, with a cup of coffee in one hand and the daily newspaper in the other, I raised my arms with out stretched hands and proclaimed the new name of the 95.

BEHOLD...........THE BLACK HOLE!!!!!!!! (Then the neighbor yelled at me to close my robe)



The End................(or is it just the beginning?)


Actually, only some of this really happened. :D




View attachment 324381
 



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Wow Gregg you have been busy my friend. Looks awsome

Thanks Nate!

It is still in pieces, and I seem to have too many things going on at one time :(

Been on the jack stands for too long now. Once it is back to running & drivable conditions, it is taking a little trip to be tore down once again....sheesh. :rolleyes:

BTW..Thanks Izwack, X-factor, & Don :;):
 



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Installed a 80mm Granetteli MAF today. Runs great, no CEL.

Stock 55mm has a oval 4 pin plug(abcd) connector. New 80mm has a square 6 pin, with only 4 pins used. A different double connector(abcd) pig tail was located at a JY along with a correct mount for the 80mm MAF off a 5.4L. This had to be cut to fit ever so carefully using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool. Was able to use complete stock MAF/filter housings and K&N filter.

Swapped out the Tension pulley for a new Dayco. Old was making some sick noise for a long time. Have had the new for just as long, just kept putting it off for some stupid reason. 10 min job....LOL
 












Well done Greg, now stay out of the deep deep water.
 












Stardate: 05.23.10

Pictures by the end of the day! Wrapping up the coil over conversion today. Need to mount the brake lines in a good spot still, and do some final tuning for the ride height and valving. I have the spinner nuts at half way down the shock body threads and have 2.5" of lift. They need to be backed up to get rid of some of that lift. Hopefully the coils are just needing to settle and relax a bit. I want the nuts at around 60% down. QA1 recommends this for optimal collapsed rate. As is, I need to go another 10% to achieve that, but that will give too much lift. This is most likely the result in my choice of going 12" instead of 10" shock length.

These coils has made it so that you have to compress them with a floor jack under the control arm to get the upper ball joint back into the knuckle to install the pinch bolt. That is how I have done it in the past, but this is a lot harder to do now.

The Dixon Bros cross member is installed. Ran into a slight problem with that. The pre-drilled bolt holes on it did not line up exact to my tabs. In order to work the tabs side to side, (front to back is easier if bent) the entire control arm assembly would have to be removed. I was not about to do that. Since the holes were wider apart than the holes on the tabs, I ended up making the hole on one side bigger on a drill press. It was only off by 1/4", but enough to make it a pita.

This was the time to install the cross member. Since there can be NO load on the LCA to remove the rear bushing/mount bolt to install it. The stock bolts work on this, as the cross member only takes away 3/16" from the thread length.

The 80mm MAF needs to be re-calibrated :( I have no idea how to, or where to take it around here for a tune of it.
It is making the engine have a rough start up and a bad hesitation when stabbing the throttle. It fires instantly, but it has a stumble and falls flat on its face unless the throttles is feathered. It smooths out after a few seconds, but this can't be a good thing. It has not been ran under a load yet, so I can't say if it gives any gains, or takes away.
 






Stardate:05.23.10.2

All finished :bounce:

Coil overs successfully installed, new paint, and DB cross member on.

Front sits at 40" to the fender lip. I have the valving set pretty stiff for HWY. The swaybar is permanently gone. When I want a smoother ride a simple turn of the knob, and it can ride over train tracks and hardly feel them :D

drsideneweverything1.jpg


frontshowingcoils.jpg


DBcrossmember.jpg
 






Very nice, you've been busy with the paint too. Well done Gregg.
 


















Looks nice and clean, nice work.
 






Me likey! Looks amazing. How much time do you think this took you compiled?

Justin


Actual working time & actual time frame are 2 completely diff things...LOL:D

Started ordering parts a long time ago, started working on it a few weeks ago, and finished it today. Multiple reasons why it took so long to wrap up.

If I had everything ready to go and started working on it (by myself, no help) with a good shop and welder........about a good couple of days. Mind you, I took the time to grind my frame rails from body mount to body mount, clean all the welds, and painted, plus installed a cross member. I wouldn't try to rush a job like this just to say (or brag) that it can be done in a few hours. Unless you don't care about what it looks like :rolleyes:

Looks nice and clean, nice work.

Thanks Justin & Glen! ;)

My 12" shocks & coils Specs when purchased:
QA1 Promo Star shock part # DR5855B--Collapsed =11.630"--Extended =17.000" with steel bearing bushing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-dr5855b
http://www.amazon.com/QA1-DR5855B-P...F8&qid=1445973865&sr=1-1&keywords=QA1+DR5855B

*NEW Updated shock models*
12" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-ds501/overview/

*NEW*
Double adjustable promo stars QA1#122-DD501 have the ability to adjust both rebound & compression with 364 valving options with 2 knobs
http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/DD501/10002/-1?parentProductId=743895

Eibach coils part # EIB1200.250.0750--12"x2.5"x750 lb - silver in color
https://offroadwarehouse.com/i-1164...springsilver-12-tall-2-5-id-750-lbs-rate.html

For others looking, the 10" shocks & coils:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-ds401/overview/
10"x2.5"x750lb silver coils part # are: Eibach # 1000.250.0750S =10" x 2.5" I.D. Coil-Over Spring
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-10002500750s/overview/
https://offroadwarehouse.com/i-1164...springsilver-10-tall-2-5-id-750-lbs-rate.html

I went with the longer extension shock (17") and will be using limit straps instead of relying on the shocks for a stop. There is just a thin piece of metal on the shocks holding the coils in place, and that kinda has me spooked to use for a stop. The collapsed rate is different( then the 10" shocks at 10.25"-- 14.00" extended.

If you buy these keep in mind they have two versions. One has poly bearing/bushings, the other is steel. You want the steel!!
Since they changed over the years, It doesn't look like they make the 10" shock with 10.25"-15" travel anymore. You might want to try FOX 2.0 X 6.5 for more travel, but be prepared to spend a bunch more $$.
 






Looks great, Gregg!

What kind of paint did you use on the frame? I need to do that to mine...
 






Looks great, Gregg!

What kind of paint did you use on the frame? I need to do that to mine...

Its a Rustoleum paint. You can purchase it in quart cans. I happen to have spray equipment, so for me it is cheaper to buy in a can, mix and spray with an HVLP. 1 quart is enough to do the entire frame a few times over. I chose a semi-gloss for its ease of cleaning. Flats are just a dirt magnet, and absorb oils like a sponge.


BTW..Thanks Scott! ;)
 






Its a Rustoleum paint. You can purchase it in quart cans. I happen to have spray equipment, so for me it is cheaper to buy in a can, mix and spray with an HVLP. 1 quart is enough to do the entire frame a few times over. I chose a semi-gloss for its ease of cleaning. Flats are just a dirt magnet, and absorb oils like a sponge.


BTW..Thanks Scott! ;)

I assume it is cheaper to buy a quart over a spray can. Is it the same paint? In other words, can I get as good a paint job from a spray can as you can from spraying it?
 






The frame is coated with a corrosion film to protect it. That stuff is a pain to remove in large amounts, and the frame has to be very clean for any paint to stick. I used an Eastwood Rust Encapsulator for mine, but I was worried about killing rust. For protection I think the Eastwood epoxy chassis paint is the best. That can go over any clean surfaces, and comes in cans for aerosol use or a paint gun. That stuff is a little expensive though, good for permanent outside use.
 






Lots of products out there, choosing the material for your specific job is what matters.

The paints are basically the same. Aerosol is thinned for spraying, canned is more solid, and has to be thinned for spray.

You can get the same results if you apply 2-3 thin coats with an aerosol. At $5/spray can, it starts to add up as there are only a few oz of paint per can.

I used a simple red oxide primer to seal what I ground off. Both the materials have a rust inhibitor. They simply slow the inevitable.

Encapsulation and epoxy's work by osmosis, they form a solid membrane, and if the object is not completely covered 100%, they can do more harm than good trapping in moisture from underneath the surface. Rust will spread under the membrane, and it will eat at most the metal before you would even know it. I would only use a product such as those if the frame was stripped bare, chemically treated, and free of anything attached to it.

Rust is just a cancer with vast amounts cells. If you don't get them all, it lives and multiplies. So for simple small areas that I cant get to 100%, I prefer a normal alkyd, it breaths, and lets rust surface from the source where it began.
 






Eastwood products are just about the best available for rust, of any kind. Used properly they are permanent. They are also the most compatible with any other products. You don't have to use only their stuff, nor do you have to perform a bunch of extra steps with theirs.

The Rust Encapsulator is a permanent treatment for rust that is shallow(that it reaches). That's your typical rust. Deep rust must be ground until it's not deep, just shallow on the surface.

The worst rust is what you find in bodies, in the seams where you cannot get to. that's when you need to use something which flows into seams and cracks. Eastwood makes at least two thin products for that, I'm used to the Rust Dissolver, which is like water. You can spray it onto rust, and it will wick into cracks and seams. If the rust is very deep and happy deep inside, that will return likely. But the special products available are much better than what you could get 20 years ago. Just browse through the rust section at Eastwood, and see how much there is. It's not the cheapest or most expensive, but it is the best.

FYI, POR15 requires more steps, you must use their products for each step, and it doesn't last as long. Regards,
 



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Great looking, no torsion bars to hang up, how does it ride??
 






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