The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Wow Gregg you have been busy my friend. Looks awsome

Thanks Nate!

It is still in pieces, and I seem to have too many things going on at one time

Been on the jack stands for too long now. Once it is back to running & drivable conditions, it is taking a little trip to be tore down once again....sheesh.

BTW..Thanks Izwack, X-factor, & Don ::

 

[V8powerbaby]

tore down again ehh

 

[gmanpaint]

Installed a 80mm Granetteli MAF today. Runs great, no CEL.

Stock 55mm has a oval 4 pin plug(abcd) connector. New 80mm has a square 6 pin, with only 4 pins used. A different double connector(abcd) pig tail was located at a JY along with a correct mount for the 80mm MAF off a 5.4L. This had to be cut to fit ever so carefully using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool. Was able to use complete stock MAF/filter housings and K&N filter.

Swapped out the Tension pulley for a new Dayco. Old was making some sick noise for a long time. Have had the new for just as long, just kept putting it off for some stupid reason. 10 min job....LOL

 

[cybergasm]

Installed a 80mm Granetteli MAF today. Runs great, no CEL.

Hopefully you did not jinx yourself here :

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done Greg, now stay out of the deep deep water.

 

[gmanpaint]

Hopefully you did not jinx yourself here :

Me knocks on wood!

Well done Greg, now stay out of the deep deep water.

I will, for the most part!...LOL

I do have a complete filter housing (minus maf mount) for a 5.4L if anyone wants it

 

[gmanpaint]

Stardate: 05.23.10

Pictures by the end of the day! Wrapping up the coil over conversion today. Need to mount the brake lines in a good spot still, and do some final tuning for the ride height and valving. I have the spinner nuts at half way down the shock body threads and have 2.5" of lift. They need to be backed up to get rid of some of that lift. Hopefully the coils are just needing to settle and relax a bit. I want the nuts at around 60% down. QA1 recommends this for optimal collapsed rate. As is, I need to go another 10% to achieve that, but that will give too much lift. This is most likely the result in my choice of going 12" instead of 10" shock length.

These coils has made it so that you have to compress them with a floor jack under the control arm to get the upper ball joint back into the knuckle to install the pinch bolt. That is how I have done it in the past, but this is a lot harder to do now.

The Dixon Bros cross member is installed. Ran into a slight problem with that. The pre-drilled bolt holes on it did not line up exact to my tabs. In order to work the tabs side to side, (front to back is easier if bent) the entire control arm assembly would have to be removed. I was not about to do that. Since the holes were wider apart than the holes on the tabs, I ended up making the hole on one side bigger on a drill press. It was only off by 1/4", but enough to make it a pita.

This was the time to install the cross member. Since there can be NO load on the LCA to remove the rear bushing/mount bolt to install it. The stock bolts work on this, as the cross member only takes away 3/16" from the thread length.

The 80mm MAF needs to be re-calibrated I have no idea how to, or where to take it around here for a tune of it.
It is making the engine have a rough start up and a bad hesitation when stabbing the throttle. It fires instantly, but it has a stumble and falls flat on its face unless the throttles is feathered. It smooths out after a few seconds, but this can't be a good thing. It has not been ran under a load yet, so I can't say if it gives any gains, or takes away.

 

[gmanpaint]

Stardate:05.23.10.2

All finished

Coil overs successfully installed, new paint, and DB cross member on.

Front sits at 40" to the fender lip. I have the valving set pretty stiff for HWY. The swaybar is permanently gone. When I want a smoother ride a simple turn of the knob, and it can ride over train tracks and hardly feel them

 

[CDW6212R]

Very nice, you've been busy with the paint too. Well done Gregg.

 

[gmanpaint]

Very nice, you've been busy with the paint too. Well done Gregg.

Thanks Don

 

[97sprt4x4]

Me likey! Looks amazing. How much time do you think this took you compiled?

Justin

 

[Glen4X4]

Looks nice and clean, nice work.

 

[gmanpaint]

Me likey! Looks amazing. How much time do you think this took you compiled?

Justin

Actual working time & actual time frame are 2 completely diff things...LOL

Started ordering parts a long time ago, started working on it a few weeks ago, and finished it today. Multiple reasons why it took so long to wrap up.

If I had everything ready to go and started working on it (by myself, no help) with a good shop and welder........about a good couple of days. Mind you, I took the time to grind my frame rails from body mount to body mount, clean all the welds, and painted, plus installed a cross member. I wouldn't try to rush a job like this just to say (or brag) that it can be done in a few hours. Unless you don't care about what it looks like

Looks nice and clean, nice work.

Thanks Justin & Glen!

My 12" shocks & coils Specs when purchased:
QA1 Promo Star shock part # DR5855B--Collapsed =11.630"--Extended =17.000" with steel bearing bushing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-dr5855b
http://www.amazon.com/QA1-DR5855B-P...F8&qid=1445973865&sr=1-1&keywords=QA1+DR5855B

*NEW Updated shock models*
12" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-ds501/overview/

*NEW*
Double adjustable promo stars QA1#122-DD501 have the ability to adjust both rebound & compression with 364 valving options with 2 knobs
http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/DD501/10002/-1?parentProductId=743895

Eibach coils part # EIB1200.250.0750--12"x2.5"x750 lb - silver in color
https://offroadwarehouse.com/i-1164...springsilver-12-tall-2-5-id-750-lbs-rate.html

For others looking, the 10" shocks & coils:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-ds401/overview/
10"x2.5"x750lb silver coils part # are: Eibach # 1000.250.0750S =10" x 2.5" I.D. Coil-Over Spring
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-10002500750s/overview/
https://offroadwarehouse.com/i-1164...springsilver-10-tall-2-5-id-750-lbs-rate.html

I went with the longer extension shock (17") and will be using limit straps instead of relying on the shocks for a stop. There is just a thin piece of metal on the shocks holding the coils in place, and that kinda has me spooked to use for a stop. The collapsed rate is different( then the 10" shocks at 10.25"-- 14.00" extended.

If you buy these keep in mind they have two versions. One has poly bearing/bushings, the other is steel. You want the steel!!
Since they changed over the years, It doesn't look like they make the 10" shock with 10.25"-15" travel anymore. You might want to try FOX 2.0 X 6.5 for more travel, but be prepared to spend a bunch more $$.

 

[Scott B.]

Looks great, Gregg!

What kind of paint did you use on the frame? I need to do that to mine...

 

[gmanpaint]

Looks great, Gregg!

What kind of paint did you use on the frame? I need to do that to mine...

Its a Rustoleum paint. You can purchase it in quart cans. I happen to have spray equipment, so for me it is cheaper to buy in a can, mix and spray with an HVLP. 1 quart is enough to do the entire frame a few times over. I chose a semi-gloss for its ease of cleaning. Flats are just a dirt magnet, and absorb oils like a sponge.


BTW..Thanks Scott!

 

[Scott B.]

Its a Rustoleum paint. You can purchase it in quart cans. I happen to have spray equipment, so for me it is cheaper to buy in a can, mix and spray with an HVLP. 1 quart is enough to do the entire frame a few times over. I chose a semi-gloss for its ease of cleaning. Flats are just a dirt magnet, and absorb oils like a sponge.


BTW..Thanks Scott!

I assume it is cheaper to buy a quart over a spray can. Is it the same paint? In other words, can I get as good a paint job from a spray can as you can from spraying it?

 

[CDW6212R]

The frame is coated with a corrosion film to protect it. That stuff is a pain to remove in large amounts, and the frame has to be very clean for any paint to stick. I used an Eastwood Rust Encapsulator for mine, but I was worried about killing rust. For protection I think the Eastwood epoxy chassis paint is the best. That can go over any clean surfaces, and comes in cans for aerosol use or a paint gun. That stuff is a little expensive though, good for permanent outside use.

 

[gmanpaint]

Lots of products out there, choosing the material for your specific job is what matters.

The paints are basically the same. Aerosol is thinned for spraying, canned is more solid, and has to be thinned for spray.

You can get the same results if you apply 2-3 thin coats with an aerosol. At $5/spray can, it starts to add up as there are only a few oz of paint per can.

I used a simple red oxide primer to seal what I ground off. Both the materials have a rust inhibitor. They simply slow the inevitable.

Encapsulation and epoxy's work by osmosis, they form a solid membrane, and if the object is not completely covered 100%, they can do more harm than good trapping in moisture from underneath the surface. Rust will spread under the membrane, and it will eat at most the metal before you would even know it. I would only use a product such as those if the frame was stripped bare, chemically treated, and free of anything attached to it.

Rust is just a cancer with vast amounts cells. If you don't get them all, it lives and multiplies. So for simple small areas that I cant get to 100%, I prefer a normal alkyd, it breaths, and lets rust surface from the source where it began.

 

[CDW6212R]

Eastwood products are just about the best available for rust, of any kind. Used properly they are permanent. They are also the most compatible with any other products. You don't have to use only their stuff, nor do you have to perform a bunch of extra steps with theirs.

The Rust Encapsulator is a permanent treatment for rust that is shallow(that it reaches). That's your typical rust. Deep rust must be ground until it's not deep, just shallow on the surface.

The worst rust is what you find in bodies, in the seams where you cannot get to. that's when you need to use something which flows into seams and cracks. Eastwood makes at least two thin products for that, I'm used to the Rust Dissolver, which is like water. You can spray it onto rust, and it will wick into cracks and seams. If the rust is very deep and happy deep inside, that will return likely. But the special products available are much better than what you could get 20 years ago. Just browse through the rust section at Eastwood, and see how much there is. It's not the cheapest or most expensive, but it is the best.

FYI, POR15 requires more steps, you must use their products for each step, and it doesn't last as long. Regards,

 

[crazyflights]

Great looking, no torsion bars to hang up, how does it ride??