The Black Hole

[Dono]

One nagging question on those btf uppers. I don't see a dust boot on them. How do they get lubricated as I don't see a grease nipple either?

 

[gmanpaint]

One nagging question on those btf uppers. I don't see a dust boot on them. How do they get lubricated as I don't see a grease nipple either?

The actual Uniball doesn't need any maintenance, except for washing off the mud with plain water. They don't use any type of wet lubricant, they have a Teflon lining and I can apply a Teflon dry lubricant now and then if I choose, but they are maintenance free.

Here is a qoute from a Uniball supplier:

" This joint is designed for those seeking a tight, maintenance free, extremely high quality joint with maximum misalignment capabilities. It uses a high-quality, precision, spherical bearing and trick custom-machined misalignment spacers held in a tubular cartridge body much like the RE bearing. However, the bearing has neither provision for lubrication nor pre-load adjustment as it is PTFE lined and factory-set. This means that because the bearing is a self-lubricating precision assembly, pre-load adjustment and lubrication are not required, either during initial assembly or throughout the life of the joint. In most cases this is an advantage: you need not guess at an appropriate pre-load setting - the bearing is already set for maximum strength and durability - and periodic re-greasing isn't required. However, some users may feel more comfortable with a joint they can adjust and grease as required. The catch is - you have to actually do it. Much like the age-old argument surrounding sealed vs. greasable U-joints - the greasable joint is only advantage to those who religiously do so. If you're inclined to neglect maintenance from time to time, you're probably much better off with a self-lubricating, factory-set joint like the Uniball.

The Uniballs are a high-end joint that combine the best features of traditional high-quality Heim joints (precision, maintenance-free bearings) with the benefits of a cartridge joint (ease of use - just weld to tube and go. Rebuildability - the bearing can be replaced without having to fabricate a whole new link). Mix in the trick missalignment spacers and you have a unique and compact joint.

Compact, strong, precise, and capable of wicked articulation this joint is an excellent choice for top-end buggies and other rigs seeking maintenance-free high-end performance."

Some stock factory versions come with zerks to be able to grease them, but they are not Teflon coated, and have a dust boot on them.

 

[CDW6212R]

Hmm interesting about those UCA's. I thought there was a boot not yet installed. I like the concept, but I'd feel more comfortable if they had at least a dust boot(think about your shocks).

 

[gmanpaint]

Hmm interesting about those UCA's. I thought there was a boot not yet installed. I like the concept, but I'd feel more comfortable if they had at least a dust boot(think about your shocks).

They have been around a while now, but they are new to me also.

Tell ya what... I will be the test mule for you and let you know how they hold up to abuse. I will be able to report back on them in a few weeks after I return from a week long trip of off road adventures with this forum on one of the 20th anniversary meets. Best testing grounds in the country will be traversed.

I have 2 other off road trips planned this season as well, each with their own types of terrains. If these survive all three, I will be satisfied and assured they can hold up to any street use.

 

[gmanpaint]

I have been a busy as can be with all aspects of this Moab trip coming up in a few days. Work is pulling me from all kinds of directions, and between that and wrenching until late hours, it can't happen soon enough.

I need a break from life for a while. I got a fever, and the only cure is.. MOAR MOAB!

Ok, so I lost a bunch of lift when the new 650 lb coils settled. In order to get the lift back, the coils would be so compressed, they wouldn't be worth a crap. So off the came, and the old ones back on. I got the alignment done after 2 trips, and 3 times on the rack. New arms did what intended with the caster, camber, and toe. All good to go, but still have to deal with the stiff front end. Win some lose some.

The wheels got swapped with a new set of 10" alum's. I was able to use the centercaps I customized a year ago, and have been sitting all wrapped up in a box. I got some black locking lugs for it, but after having them on, and realizing they are too much a PITA to deal with if I had a flat on a trail, I took em off. I will most likely put them on when the rig is sitting idle for a deterrent.

After all this work done these last few months, this rig has never been better then it is right now.

Rains have been constant and the rig is a dirty pig. It will get a bath to remove a year of weather off it this weekend.

 

[gmanpaint]

Finished up the cargo storage box, and got it installed.

E-Track is on all sides of it to secure the box itself, and misc items when needed. I have a small section of E-track, I might add to the top, of the front of the box, to secure the front drive shaft below the rear shaft. The rear drive shaft is secured by the large adjustable quick fist straps. They hold anything from 2.5"-9" in diameter. The back seat folds up and you cant see the shafts there. I do believe I figured out how to secure them safely.

If anybody was wondering what the big eyebolt was for... It is to hold the spare tire mount J-bolt. I added straps on it just for the heck of it, to see how well the E-track worked. I dig that stuff!

The subwoofer box is coming out, and I will be installing a sub enclosure instead soon to replace it. Until then, no thumps. :thumbdwn:

 

[reapereviltwin]

Dang! The wheels and center caps looking sweeeeeeeeeeet! Wish I could wheel with you at Moab, maybe another one.

 

[gmanpaint]

Dang! The wheels and center caps looking sweeeeeeeeeeet! Wish I could wheel with you at Moab, maybe another one.

We have gone twice already at least. Lol

Be another 3 years before I make it back most likely. That trip isn't wallet friendly.

 

[gmanpaint]

Windows were all fogged over so I turned on the defrosters, and the blower wouldn't turn on at any speed. Checked the fuses and all are good. It worked last time I used it back in November, but nothing now. I have no idea what to look for, or where to start ATM.

We could use both heat & A/C in Moab. Any tips are appreciated!

 

[timtimtimajim]

The fact that it is not running at any speed tells me it can't be the resistor. If the resistor was bad it would still run at the highest speed.

Might just be a loose connection to the blower motor or resistor. Also, check the voltage at the connection to the blower motor and the connection to the resistor with the fan control in any of the on positions. If there is no voltage then there is something wrong with the wiring. If there is voltage then motor may have just gone bad.

Hope that helps.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks, that is what I was going to do, as the connectors are on tight still. I will use another power source to the blower directly to check it. Swapping the blower is easy, but if it is the switch or something else in the dash......Not so easy for me.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Turn the switch to high and give the blower motor a few light taps with a hammer. Sometimes if the windings are corroded it will sit in a bad spot and you get a no go situation. If thats the case then a couple of love taps might free it up.

 

[reapereviltwin]

We have gone twice already at least. Lol

We have, but our rigs have yet to be at the same meet at the same time.

 

[gmanpaint]

Tapped the blower and it started running. turned the selector switch from one side to the other, and it stopped. tapped it again, it didn't work. turned the switch, it came back on, until I turned the switch to the other side. So everytime I go pass the off position, it turns off, and won't come back on. That worked a couple times, then no matter what I did, it wouldn't come back on. Looks like a new blower motor is going in, if I can find one tomorrow.

Had to change U joints in the tow rig tonight, as it developed a vibration. busy busy around here.

 

[toypaseo]

timtimtimajim mentioned a blower resistor. If it is like the one in a gen2 Dodge Ram, it's pry bad due to the blower motor having issues. A co-worker of mine has a gen2 Ram, and only had fan on high. Replaced the blower resistor with a new OEM one, had all fan speeds. Eventually, lost all fan speeds except high. Colder weather set in, and his blower motor was squealing like a stuck pig. After searching online for info, found a lot of posts on how the bad blower motor killed the blower resistor, and replacing both solved the problem.

 

[gmanpaint]

A resistor doesn't cost much, so might as well swap it out at the same time as the blower. Thanks for the nudge Kent.

I was thinking about the blower motor relay as well. The manual shows an arrow pointing to the pass side/underhood area for location. I glanced around, and didn't see squat. Autozone's repair section says the high & low blower relays are in a panel, in front of wheel well, pass side. I looked again... Umm...They be hiding on me, and doing a heck of a job at it too.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

There's a small relay box under the air intake box. It should be attached to the inner fender down low on the front right behind(not behind, aft of) the radiator support. I can post up wiring diagrams if it would help. Let me know.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Here you go. Maybe this will help.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Al. That helps, and saves me some time. I am running out of time to prep for our big trip across country in 2 days. With all I still have to do, spending time diagnosing every individual part is just not in the cards for this issue. My only fear is it is the control switch.

Figures I have to remove more stuff to get at them. lol

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I hear you. I would love to get out to Moab, but I'm on the east coast and unfortunately it's not in the cards. Life has a way of getting in the way of what we really want to do. lol! I love your rig. Been following your threads for some time. I actually followed one of your write ups when I did the F-150 leaf spring mod to my rig. Great write up, helped me immensely. I was able to go back to stock shackles and get the lift I needed. If I can be of any help with your pre- trip troubles let me know. I'd be happy to return the favor, so to speak.