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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

Its only been around town for a little bit, but it rides nice. The springs need to settle, so I can finish adjusting it, and take it in for an alignment still.

Lifetime alignment here I come! LOL

Thanks Brad ;)
 



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Lookin good man! Need to get some Fox emulsions for the rear now so it can keep up with the front. :D
 






Lookin good man! Need to get some Fox emulsions for the rear now so it can keep up with the front. :D

Nah..can't afford those overpriced things. The adjustable ride RS9000xl work great in the back, I'm good. :thumbsup:
 






looks good,
i am just wondering how much more adjustment will be left after they have been on for a bit, ?
i bet it rides nice,
 






Still half of the threads left to adjust as it is. And that's just to have it set for a 2" lift. I can bring em back up to level out the control arms more, but, that's not going to happen.

Only way that's gonna happen is for a stock height set up or a set of stupid lift drop brackets, which I can honestly say, I am not a fan of whatsoever.

Thanks Jason, & Pete;)
 






what's the extended length of them ones ?
for all reading,,
 


















Dang, look at the bling! Very nice!!

Thanks Daniel ;)

Spent 9 hours yesterday ripping out all the wiring for my accessories, and running new to the fuse block. Made 3 separate harnesses using 3/8 tube and 14 ga wire. That crazy mess under the console is gone, and cleaned up for the trans shifter.

Installed an inline keyed safety switch under the hood along with a 100 amp fuse mounted on Dr side fender brackets. Since I run the Optima Red Top, I used the side post connection for the 4 Ga wire ran to the fuse block. The block can run up to 12 connections and I have 8 of them used already...lol

On SIDE NOTE, anyone know how to run a A pillar mounted spotlight? The kind that Police cruisers use? I seen a couple clean lights at the JY and can get them dirt cheap. I would like to run duels. I am not sure what has to be done as far as mounting and wiring them.
 






Very good work on the wiring, you will appreciate that a lot. The spot lights aren't difficult, but old ones often are seized in place. If they will move very easily, you can likely get them out with little trouble. New ones though used to be about $80 at one time, see what you can find new first.
 












I would skip the spot light - I just don't think it would get used very often (waste of $).
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I would skip the spot light - I just don't think it will get used much.
Posted via Mobile Device

Maybe for some, but I know I would use it a ton. I have a hand held 1 mil candlelight rechargeable spotlight. I run the battery down fast on it and annoys me. Having to hold it while steering is also a major pita.

When we were out in the middle of Moab at night, we would have been in a world of hurt without it. The ease of being able to point it and have both hands free for operating the rig would be very nice. Since I am going to manual trans, I will need both hands. Just thinking ahead here :)

Edit:
You younger guys with your eagle vision just wouldn't understand the need for all the lighting you can have at night lol
 






The two 95 Crown Vics I have had spotlights. One was locked up when I got it, and the other was broken by a fool too far on my side of the road. I swapped the one to the other car(better car), and got it to move again. But I didn't do something right installing it because it seized in place within six months. I didn't use it but it looked good, and I thought I used anti-seize in the right places.

Unity is the top name brand to get, they are easy to get parts for.
 






After searching for a new bulb I found out they cost $45 new and around $25 off e-bay (some used even). So, I started looking around some more and found these for $25/pc and in working order.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WOW-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I hear your warning Don. I simply cant afford the new ones. I don't mind used if they work, I will take some precautions when installing them to prevent seizure. Thanks for the warning on that matter.
 






I'm sorry I didn't know what the parts cost, I have just seen them in the Gall's catalog I used to get.

I think you can do fine with a used one, the hard part is removing them if they are seized in place. If you can keep out moisture, I believe they will work for years. The hole in the "A" pillar will also be interesting to cut. Use plenty of RTV around the seams there when you install them.
 






Hey man, I know you don't want to spend the money on new ones, but I figured I'd post up my links anyways.

Here are some new ones, $130

More importantly, here is the mounting hardware for them. Perhaps you could just get this and use it to mount and seal some junkyard lights?

According to this chart, we use a '29 RH' mount for the drivers door and a '29 00' for the passengers.

Good hunting!
 






Thanks Chris,
That chart will come in handy to use for cross reference other makes/models that use the same mount. Looks like a few smaller size SUV's & all RBV use the same mount.

$30/mount+$25/light(ebay item)+shipping=$65/side...not bad.
 






The new coils are getting better & better everyday! They are breaking in nicely. The ride just keeps on improving with time, and is tons more enjoyable now. No more jarring from twisted T-bars. If it had street tire treads, it would be like riding on air...LOL

A little adjustment on the rear shocks valving to match the fronts rates, and it feels dialed in for now. Over time I will know where to set it at to adjust for road conditions (on/off road). I really like these QA1 with 12 setting adjustments, and the rear RS9K with 9 adjustments. Makes tuning so simple.
 



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You said the front shocks are 17" extended?

I got some ideas for the ranger...
 






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