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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

Using 2 feet for 3 pedals is something I haven't had to do for a long time

Time for a hand throttle, then you have enough feet.

~Mark
 



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Time for a hand throttle, then you have enough feet.

~Mark

This is a mod that is definitely going to happen & soon!

Found this thread on it.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50331&highlight=Hand+Throttle

I am not sure which lever is the best to use for it. The smooth action or the click action? I can see how the cable is ran to the TB, (either threw the floor or threw the firewall) but the actual cable hook up to my TB is kinda unclear to me so far.:dunno:


Edit:
Found a pic of Ricks cable attachment. I like the idea of using the stock bracket to run the cable threw. Codepoet used a ball chain attached to the end of his cable (Rick drilled a hole for his cable), I like that idea too. Might try to use both of these ideas on mine.

Ricks set up on the Pumkin
attachment.php
 






Hand Throttle Mod installed and working perfectly :)

Stopped off at a bicycle shop and picked up some parts.

I used a Shimano 9 speed locking ratchet shifter with dual levers. Ratchet back the top lever to raise RPM's, Ratchet up the bottom lever to lower RPM's. First 2 clicks take out the slack in the chain, each click after gives about 400 rpm difference. It can take it up to 3500 RPM's and hold each range solid.

The lever is clamped to the shifter. Ran through the floor, under the body, up from the trans tunnel, zip tied here & there, used a cable stop and bar-nut(need to find a regular nut)) attached to the throttle cable bracket, then looped the end with 2 cable crimps onto a #10 stainless ball chain to the stock throttle cable end.

There is even a needle gauge showing the position it is in.
handthrottle2.jpg

handthrottle3.jpg

Handthrottle1.jpg

throttleballchain.jpg
 






And what did the small town bike shop think when you finally told them what you were doing? :)

~Mark
 






And what did the small town bike shop think when you finally told them what you were doing? :)

~Mark
I am slowly realizing how big the off road community is around here.

Surprisingly, I wasn't the only person that had explained what I was after there. The guy at the shop had said others had came in getting parts for this mod as well. He sells used parts at a discount, so we rummaged thru his parts bins and found this shifter. I got the shifter, a spanking new cable shield tube, new end caps, the pass thru bolt, for $9.82.

Gotta love small Mom & Pop shops. :thumbsup:
 






















































Hmm winch sounds like good plan woulda came in real handy 1 long afternoon at Smorr :)
 












Got a good deal on a Rockford Fosgate 4 ch amp from a member here.

I hooked it up to the door speakers (pioneers) after work last night, and WOW, what a huge dif in sound clarity. I managed to listen to a couple of good hard rock songs at about 2/3 volume and that was as loud as I wanted to take it. Sounds great at any volume now. Used to have to turn it up half way before it sounds decent, but even at low volumes it sounds clear and has nice snapping mid-range and clear highs. Woot!

Now the door speakers can keep up with the subwoofer :)
 






Got a good deal on a Rockford Fosgate 4 ch amp from a member here.

I hooked it up to the door speakers (pioneers) after work last night, and WOW, what a huge dif in sound clarity. I managed to listen to a couple of good hard rock songs at about 2/3 volume and that was as loud as I wanted to take it. Sounds great at any volume now. Used to have to turn it up half way before it sounds decent, but even at low volumes it sounds clear and has nice snapping mid-range and clear highs. Woot!

Now the door speakers can keep up with the subwoofer :)

All that sounds awesome but not if you didn't remember to hook that head unit in place:D.
 






All that sounds awesome but not if you didn't remember to hook that head unit in place:D.

Since the HU cage doesn't have a place to bolt it inside the dash, it had to be removed when wheeling or it would fly out of the dash. I did remedy this by using Velcro strips on both sides of the HU adapter plate to the bezel. It should stay put now :)
 






Has anyone had any experience with McQuay suspension parts? The 35" tires are going on soon and the trimming and driveline inspection, replacement of parts has begun. I am replacing the tierod ends, inner links, and U-joints with HD parts.

Moogs are a great brand, and that is what I was going to use, but I stumbled upon the McQuay parts. These are way more expensive than the moogs. They claim to be extra strong for severe duty use.

McQuay Extreme inner link # ES3424E:

* Cold formed, heated treated studs provide superior strength, durability and stability
* permanently attached polyurethane boots resist cracking and splitting
* Patented, enhanced technology such as low friction polymer bearing design makes McQuay-Norris® Extreme the ideal replacement for light trucks and SUVs used in severe duty situations

315M2P8NWCL._SS500_.jpg
 



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We currently use Mcquay Norris extreme duty ball joints on our 1st gen. I plan to use them next time too if I can't get the Spicer ones again. The Mcquay Norris extreme joins seemed much beefier than the moog ones I had in there and so far they are holding up really well.

I know it doesn't answer about their tie rods, but at least we know they "can" make good products.

~Mark
 






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