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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

HMMMMM, when will this rig see the trails, I need to be there :)
 



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Since I was off work today and the weather was hovering around the freezing point, I decided to go ahead and install the rear flares.

The flares look good Greg!

I'm glad they do cause I think I have a set under the tree. :D
 






HMMMMM, when will this rig see the trails, I need to be there :)
Sooner than later I hope. :thumbsup:
The flares look good Greg!

I'm glad they do cause I think I have a set under the tree. :D

Thanks! :)

I think you will like them. Good bang for your buck with these. They are made well, and if you do manage to destroy them, your not out a lot of coin.
 






Well, I lost my notes for the extended front brake lines! Grrrrr...

From off the top of my head, I know that F-250 or SD lines will work, and are less than $20/pc. What I cant remember is the years of the F-250 or SD.

Anyone remember off the tops of their head?

The lines on it now feel kind of soft, and they are just a tad too short. They get bent inwards and end up rubbing on the calipers, which will lead to failure soon. So, If they are getting replaced, I want longer lines. The F-250 lines are a few inches longer.
 






i would get the braided type, i have them and the difference is major,, the feel of the pedal is far superior to rubber lines, and pedal to caliper control is awesome,,
 






Arent the braided ones non-DOT approved though? I have a vague recollection that they fail the "whip" test.
 






i saw d o t approved ones on a website today,
 












Ah well there you go.
 






Some are dot approved but most arent. Especially those found at a speed shop which os what I use.

~Mark
 
























any better??
 

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i think they would do the job quite well
and seeing as they list them for this application they will probably have the right fittings for them as well ,
 






Summit Racing carries the entire Russell (owned by Edelbrock) line.

You can go on Russell's site, and determine which part numbers you need, then order them from Summit.

I much prefer going to the manufacturer's site to look at product - the retailers usually don't have as much product info on their sites...
 






For the record, the DOT-approved lines have a Teflon sleeve (or collar) between the hose and the crimped-on fitting, protruding from under the fitting for about an inch.

I believe that change was made to pass the whip test.
 






Many places can make brake lines on site, and pressure test them. I've had four sets made, these for my 99, and three custom for my 98's custom brakes.

Try to find a place that does not reuse the old fittings. These below were made using the OEM frame fitting, I don't believe they achieve as good of a joint with the hose as with a new fitting.

One of mine leaked after about three years, it wasn't bad until the master cylinder got low and then brake power was almost gone. So the leak didn't cause a complete loss of brake power, but after a little while I noticed a spongy pedal. A couple of stops later and I knew I didn't have much brake left.

If you ever see any leakage around a brake hose or line, don't wait to fix it, once the master cylinder gets low, you will not go far. Regards,
 

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The shops here want well over a hundred bucks for a custom pair. They do not make DOT approved either, so, it just makes sense to me to get some already made for cheaper.

Right now, the stock lines are rubbing on the bleeders. The banjo elbow gets bent, from pulling, and forces the line into the calipers. I have tried bending them back, but they return. I know thats not good to do, as I'm sure it weakens the metal. Good thing this rig doesn't get many miles on it.....lol
 






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