The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Thumps are back. Installed a JL Audio 8" subwoofer in a enclosure. Need to find a stock sub cover at a salvage yard still. Using a 1st gen pocket cover for now to help protect it some.
While I have the storage box out, I am going to replace the wood screws in the glides with bolts, as they are stronger.

 

[gmanpaint]

After realizing I could make my own sub cover using the outer ring on the stock net style pocket, I headed to the store to find something for a cover backer. I ended up spending $2 on a thin black foam board. Now I needed something to use as a cover, and I wanted to try something other then traditional fabric. I walked just about every isle in 3 large Box stores, stalking the store workers, and hunting my prey. I settled on the thickest shelving liner I seen.

After tracing the insert ring for the cargo panel on the foam backer board, I carefully cut it to shape. Using some 3M spray adhesive on the foam board, I rolled out the liner over it, and let it set up. Once it was dry, I trimmed it up best I could with the scissors I had. (stole em from my office desk )

Too attach the covered foam board to the ring, I spent less then $2 on some velcro tabs. Put the two halves together, stick one side to the ring, pull the other backer off to expose the sticky stuff, and carefully place the cover on.

So I saved a trip to the salvage yard, time spent searching there for a cover, and fuel money. This cover cost less then $10. Time will tell if it lasts or not.

 

[CDW6212R]

That looks good, very close to what the JL Stealthbox cover looks like. The 10" sub woofer will fit also, that's what the aftermarket boxes use.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Don. I got the stock enclosure at the JY for $5, and the 8" JL V-3 sub hits plenty hard (& clean) for me. It's just a trail rig, and what's in it now is overkill. LOL!

 

[CDW6212R]

I too like the hidden woofer to keep the cargo space. I bought a used Stealth box and a new speaker way back when. It's time to put it in.

 

[gmanpaint]

Today was Rear end day. Worked on both rigs 8.8's, and this rear end was the good, of the good & bad stories to tell today.

It was time to finally change the initial Diff fluid from the fresh gear install. All was good inside the holes rear end. (insert joke here) Fluids had a tiny bit of ultra fine sparkles, as to be expected, and the fluids were still pretty much clean otherwise. (phew...)

So after a vigorous cleaning of all the old RTV, it was time to break out the high dollar Lube Locker steel gasket. This gasket has rubber on both sides, and 3 separate sealing lines across it. It is reusable, over & over, a dry install, with no RTV needed. I had this gasket since before the rear axle was rebuilt, but waited until after the break in period to use it.

To top off the rebuild, the cherry on top was installed. An indestructible 3/8" plate steel RuffStuff cover. With POR 15 treatment of course.

Now, I did have a hiccup, and I was almost finished with the entire day when bolt #8 decided to strip out the threads in the housing when setting it to 30 Ft lbs. Not sure what I am going to do about it yet, so I plugged it with Ultra black and jammed a bolt in it temporarily. I'm not sure if I want to tap it, or not. Helicoil? Hmm.. Oh well, 9 bolts are in there nice and tight at least. LOL!

Lube locker comes with the torx sequence right on the package, and they even throw in a cute little sticker.

 

[CDW6212R]

Nice, clean parts. I love that Lube Locker steel gasket. I didn't know they made them for a diff, I'll have to get a couple for my keepers. The original idea came from valve cover gaskets, and I'll never use anything but a steel VC gasket now.

 

[gmanpaint]

I wish I knew about them long ago. They are worth it, if your removing the cover frequently, as I do. Now if we can just get them to come down on the synthetic fluids, all would be well. lol

I found this gasket on amazon for cheaper then anybody else I seen.
https://www.amazon.com/Lube-Locker-...68879550&sr=8-1&keywords=lube+locker+ford+8.8

 

[CDW6212R]

I put that in my wish list earlier, and it's $21 from Summit if you buy enough to get free shipping.

What gear lube do you use? The synthetic brands available locally are too high, Ford's is crazy last I saw.

I use Amsoil, Severe Gear, the three grades cost about $9/$10/$11 plus S/H and tax. I like that the best.

 

[gmanpaint]

I forget, I use Amazon Prime, and I always use them first if they have what I need. Seems like anything I get from Summit is like $10 shipping minimum. lol

Thats a great price compared to the Mobile1 at $18-$20 a bottle. Thanks for the heads up, I like Amsoil products just fine. There is a dealer not to far from me too.

 

[gmanpaint]

Haven't had a chance to use the rig all summer. So there isn't any new carnage or war stories to share.Hoping to get to a new to me ORV Park in OK this fall.

I managed to get the 30 amp air pump hard wired on the cargo wheel well trim. I can remove the pump with disconnects, and plug in the battery clamp cables if needed.

I scored a nice set of waterproof 9amp cree LED pod Rock lights to replace the older 55w halogen Rocks. These things are very nice and affordable. Cleaner light, smaller then the Halogens, and perfect brightness. They disperse the light in a flood pattern, and overlap each other, throwing light all the way across the vehicle. I have seen these same pods go for more then twice the price, then I got them for off of Amazon. They come in white, amber, blue, green, or red.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPGAUC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I never did get around to getting some paint on the spare drive lines, and they already need to be hit with the wire wheel again. Another project for another day.

I keep telling myself, I will clean the red dust from Moab off the engine, but I just can't do it for some reason. I like being reminded of that adventure when I see it, and it's like a trail badge of sorts.

 

[gmanpaint]

So, the OK trip is a bust, BUT... Another place is happening in a couple weeks.

In prep for this adventure, the new LED Rock lights got installed, The spare drive lines got cleaned & painted with a new custom mount for the front on the cargo box. All that's left is to gain another half inch up front on the Dr side Coil over. Either the added weight, or the coil settled, or both has made it drop 1/2".

Just ordered some new spare parts from RockAuto. I used my spare belt, and needed a replacement, and before I knew it, an idler & tension pulley, & clutch pedal bushing fell into the cart.
Also grabbed 4 new door lock strikers as that is the only way to get the striker bushings these days. Oh... and a anti-rattle kit for the hatch strikers.

Now to see if I can load the camping gear, another full size spare, clothing, food & cooler, tools & spare parts, and still be able to see out the windows!

 

[gmanpaint]

Been trying to adjust the E-brakes so they both work the same. No such luck!!

No matter what I do, I can't get them both to work the same. I got it so Pass side works perfect, but the Dr side barely grabs. That's the best I can get it, so leaving it alone for now.

The entire E-brake set up was replaced about 8 yrs ago, and they have been barely used. The axle was worked on recently, and the shop installed them when they put it back together. Something tells me they didn't get a spring right. I do not feel like pulling the axles out and losing brand new expensive dif fluids just to look. Ugh...

Coils were adjusted, and I got the height gain I was after, now to take it to the alignment shop.
Rock Auto parts arrived today. Faster then normal, which was nice. Time to get some of them installed.
New matching wheel & tire for the spare, are on the way.
Weekend trip is approaching fast, and excited to get back to some trails with this rig.

 

[Dono]

You made me laugh on the ebrakes. They never work.
I fought with mine without pulling the axle out. So, my next question....Are you supposed to pull the axle out? I bet the brakes would actually be much easier to work on, but more time consuming.

 

[CDW6212R]

I got my "new 98" parking brakes to work well. I was servicing the rear end, doing the axle bearings and seals, gear oil etc. I bought new hardware for the parking brakes along with the little drum linings.

It takes almost all new parts, the hardware for those little brakes, and the linings, plus adjusting them so they are tight in the rotor, when you install them. But they will become less effective from use, the adjusters aren't really automatic.

The cables are likely the biggest issue with our older trucks, binding up inside the sheathings.

 

[gmanpaint]

Dono, I guess your right. Once the disc / drum is off, you can work on them. For some reason, I was thinking the axle hat blocked them.
I might try to have another go at the Dr side by doing that. You can adjust them from the backside with the star wheel with the wheel still on, and both wheels raised off the ground. That's what I was doing to adjust them.

Don, When the rear axle bearings and seals was replaced, that's when the brand new E-brake spring /shoe kit went in. Your right, it was the perfect time to do that. These will not auto-adjust by pulling the cable a few times, they have to be set by hand with a tiny screwdriver thru the service hole on the back of the dust shields. I think the cables work fine, and I have installed an adjustable cable tensioner on the main cable, under the rocker area. Dr side rear cable might be bad, but it does pull/release on the lever. That's why I think the Dr side wasn't put back together correctly by the axle shop. They are just used to working on Heep axles I guess. LOL!

In other news... I ordered some schedule 40- 3.5" O.D.x 3/16"wall tube to add on to the rear bumper, under the rear fenders. I got it today, but they sent me 3.5" I.D.x1/4" wall. That makes the O.D. 4". I might be able to make it work.

At least the carbon diamond plate and the carbon sheet steel for others mods was correct.

 

[CDW6212R]

...

I ordered some schedule 40- 3.5" O.D.x 3/16"wall tube to add on to the rear bumper, under the rear fenders. I got it today, but they sent me 3.5" I.D.x1/4" wall. That makes the O.D. 4". I might be able to make it work.

...

Whew, that's some huge pipe. That'll be stronger than the frame, a lot stronger. It would also add more weight than necessary, do you really need it that big?

 

[gmanpaint]

Whew, that's some huge pipe. That'll be stronger than the frame, a lot stronger. It would also add more weight than necessary, do you really need it that big?

Only need 1 lft on each side. about 5 lbs total. The rear tube bumper is made from 3.5"x3/16 wall, and needed more of the same to weld on the side rails. Tube bumpers weigh a lot less than plate bumpers.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ah, five pounds is nothing. I was envisioning something triangulating to the frame near the axles.

I appreciate well built parts. I got another pair of the HD spring/shock perches from Brian, this set one step thinner. I'll use the heavier pair in my work truck, and this new set under my street/fun truck. I hate seeing under a stock older vehicle at the parts which are getting eaten by the weather. Good steel is awesome, I love visiting my machine shop to see what they are working on.

 

[gmanpaint]

New full size matching spare & new matching wheel. Happy Birthday to me.....