The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Ok, just trying to figure why it would now be a tooth off.

I just spoke to a mechanic friend, and he checked the book hours for doing this. Said book only calls for .06/hr. I think I am going to take it in the stealership, and let them have at it. Maybe they can see what's up with the O/D not being able to shut off as well.

 

[Dono]

Tough to know why (or if) its out of alignment, but that's where you really need to start in diagnosing the issue.
I'd think the guys that did the work originally would have used the alignment tool, but no one but them know for sure.

 

[gmanpaint]

The one thing that has me 2nd guessing the actual cam sync, is the fact it only comes on after a couple stop/ start cycles.

After the code is cleared, it can be ran for hundreds of miles, with no code thrown, as long as it isn't shut off, and restarted. Stop for gas, restart, go a few miles, and bam there it is, like clockwork.

To me, this seems more of a computer software issue, with something not being compatible. I have been wrong before, and could be wrong now, but this is what my gut is saying.

 

[boominXplorer]

The .6 for book time is to swap one that's in time. I'd assume it would be more labor to realign it. I'd get the tool (can be found under $20), set the crank at tdc and see if it's right. If it's way off turn the crank over again and try again. If it's close but still off then it's timed wrong. I'm still leaning towards a tooth off as it's tricky to line up.

 

[boominXplorer]

1997 V8 Explorer PCM w/harness and transmission transplant in my 1977 351w F150

Check the pic of the engine block with the cam sync installed for reference.

 

[gmanpaint]

Getting the crank or #1 at TDC is going to be a bear for me alone. This is why I want to take it in for this. That, and hooking it up to the high $$ Ford scanners they have.

I need to call them and see what they are charging these days for a diagnostic scan, been a while since I had this done by Ford.
Thanks for the link to the build boominXplorer, I haven't seen that before. Pretty cool stuff going on there.

 

[massacre]

If you remove spark plug from cyl #1 you can put your finger over the hole and when the compression stops, that is pretty damn close to TDC.

But I totally get it, sometimes it’s worth the money to make it someone else’s problem lmao

 

[boominXplorer]

There's a mark on the balancer and the crank sensor has a point to line it up to tdc. A 24mm socket turns the crank. Just turn the crank to line it up, take the cam sensor cap off and see where the flag sits.

Taking a 20 year old modified vehicle to the dealer is not a good idea. You need to find an independent shop that will give your vehicle the time of day.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, I realize that. Can you sense my frustration, and desperation? Lol

 

[boominXplorer]

If you were within 500 miles of me I'd be on the way to help but your about 1000mi away. I hear your frustration but with the knowledge and help from this forum you can tackle this yourself and save the frustration of another person working on your truck not knowing what they are doing (your current situation).

 

[gmanpaint]

But.... I want to share the love!!! Lol

I asked a friend to come help get this done. He is in Mexico on vacay right now, so will be another week. Ordering the cam tool today.

In the meantime, going to do the same plan of data log to the tuner.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Greg,

I have an alignment tool from my 97 5.0 if it will work. It's just taking up room in my toolbox.

 

[gmanpaint]

Greg,

I have an alignment tool from my 97 5.0 if it will work. It's just taking up room in my toolbox.

Ah man, I ordered one yesterday, and it's on its way. Thanks so so much Dan , truly appreciate the offer but i think I need to keep the kit I ordered. Comes with 4 different tools, and has one for the 4.0L for the 94.

Edit: I was mistaken with the kit. It is a 5 pc, but no tool for the 94 4.0L, only for the Sohc 4.0L, and Jeep 4.0L .

 

[gmanpaint]

I wasn't going to put these on, until this thing was ironed out, but I almost dropped them onto the concrete floor. Figured better just do it, before I damage them.

Fenders

Grill

 

[WormsExplorer]

Those look awesome

 

[gmanpaint]

No love for the BH. Got ghosted by my "Friend" for the help getting TDC, and doing the Cam syncro alignment. Time to see the Doc.

Set an appointment with Ford Stealership to handle this. Book time is .06 hrs, but they want 1.5 hrs labor @ $133/hr. This rig has been stuck like this now for 9 months, and I just can't wait any longer. I'm at the end of my rope. This might not even be the issue with it, but have to try at least.

I am also having them do a diagnostic check for the Overdrive issue as well. That's a set charge, at $150.

Ramen noodles for the next 2 months! I need to lose 20 lbs anyways.

 

[traveler]

The V8 Badges do look great. Can you tell me about that light bar? I'm considering moving into the 21st century and getting some LEDs instead of the Big Halogen spots.
sorry to hear about your troubles btw. I've discovered Hard times are always temporary however. As Churchill said "When you're going through hell... Keep on going!"

 

[gmanpaint]

The V8 Badges do look great. Can you tell me about that light bar? I'm considering moving into the 21st century and getting some LEDs instead of the Big Halogen spots.
sorry to hear about your troubles btw. I've discovered Hard times are always temporary however. As Churchill said "When you're going through hell... Keep on going!"

Kudos goes to Jon for the badges. He matched them to the coils he did for me. I just hope they stay that dark cherry. If they turn pink, off they come! lol

The light bar is super simple to install. They hardly draw much power, but I still ran a 40amp relay to it. I didn't on any of the other Led's, as all of them together draw as much as one H3, or close to it. Just do some research on the ones Amazon has, and look for the highest IP rating on them. IP67 works fine, and IP68 is best. Anything lower, and water can get in them, and you don't want that. They have gotten really affordable over the past few years. Like really affordable. You can spend big bucks on brands like Rigid, which are awesome, but how often do you race in the Baja, and need something like that? You can buy 5-6 off brand lights for one of them, and they will do the same thing.

Choices on them include, Spot, flood, or a combo of both. I have the combo, with center pods being spot, and outer pods being flood. It's not that big, as I also have a couple 36w combos on the roof. Together they light **** up. You have seen them in CO, you tell me how they work. lol The mounting brackets on them slide side to side, and tilt back and forth. You can mount them pretty easy to your bull bar. Just measure the gap, and order accordingly.

That's all I got on this! lol

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds very good, I need to build a roof rack and mount LED's in the corners as strobe lights.

 

[gmanpaint]

That sounds very good, I need to build a roof rack and mount LED's in the corners as strobe lights.

If you have the rails on the roof already....
You can just make a cross bar mount out of 1" round steel tube. Weld some small 2-3" legs out of the same 1" tube, then a small 1/8" flat plate tab to drill a bolt hole thru, and use a set of stock luggage crossbar bolt tie em downer thing a ma bobs to the rails.

Now you can add 10 pod lights or one big 52" light bar across the entire thing.