The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Ok, I can ask about the ethanol blends.

Reason for 2 tunes is because pulling the adventure trailer and going thru big elevation changes on my journeys.

I know 87 is what all engines are mandated to run on, but this new blend of late is crap. Curious if it matters or not, and if an 89 tune would be better or not.

Parts only have a couple hundred miles on them. Not going to change them out just yet, but the injector clean isn't a bad idea.

 

[Dono]

part throttle driving wont make a difference on the air/fuel ratio with closed loop driving as the oxygen sensors adapt for altitude, ethanol, etc.
Will using higher octane allow timing adjustments for more power under wot? I think so. There will be no power difference under light throttle though, as you would already be at optimum timing.

Ask the questions, as I'm interested in the response also.

 

[gmanpaint]

Climbing mtn passes in low range, pulling a trailer at 3500 rpms, for hours at a time, will be normal on the trips this rig will see. The steep hwy passes up in 3rd gear pulling the trailer will also be a demand on hp. These are the areas i need max hp and torx.

With no trailer and loaded with 1000 lbs of gear, the poor 4.0 got it's ass kicked many a time. Hoping this engine makes up for that, but the load has increased to 2500 lbs now.

These are the concerns and needs to tune for. Simple cruising on flat hwy at speed, not so much, but still want the best mpg attainable at cruising to my destinations. This is a bit different than tuning for a 1/4 mile pull from a to b. I know a lot of it will be similar, but also different.

I will spend the next couple of days learning how to set up the tuner, and how to get a data log to email. Torrie gave me a couple links to help out here.

 

[CDW6212R]

I said premium isn't worth it because a bunch of people have run it in 302 Mustangs with raised timing(14 etc versus 10), and gained very very little. Given the near 50cents a gallon more premium costs, I think most people would prefer to use regular.

My plans to build a 306 for my mail truck will be to run regular. It would cost me a ton more for gas if I built it with 10:1 compression and had to use premium. So I'll let the cam designer tell me what compression he suggests for 87 octane. I think he'll tell me 9.5:1 is about the limit for regular fuel.

 

[CDW6212R]

Climbing mtn passes in low range, pulling a trailer at 3500 rpms, for hours at a time, will be normal on the trips this rig will see. The steep hwy passes up in 3rd gear pulling the trailer will also be a demand on hp. These are the areas i need max hp and torx.

With no trailer and loaded with 1000 lbs of gear, the poor 4.0 got it's ass kicked many a time. Hoping this engine makes up for that, but the load has increased to 2500 lbs now.

These are the concerns and needs to tune for. Simple cruising on flat hwy at speed, not so much, but still want the best mpg attainable at cruising to my destinations. This is a bit different than tuning for a 1/4 mile pull from a to b. I know a lot of it will be similar, but also different.

I will spend the next couple of days learning how to set up the tuner, and how to get a data log to email. Torrie gave me a couple links to help out here.

That's what I worry about, actual high throttle but not WOT stress, the tune may require data logging while on the actual drive planned for.

 

[gmanpaint]

Hmm, that is going to be impossible at this time. Might have to tune it the best he can, and log on the next trip out, then tweak it later.

 

[410Fortune]

OKay I am a bit late to the party here but been doing some reading.
Seems like this is a 95 explorer that was converted to OBD II and then eventually a 98 5.0 4r7w and atlas t case, now having some issues.
The OD light wont go off
Has code P1309
Trans is shifting weird
1995 to 1998 wiring harness is suspect

Am I correct?

The truck looks amazing! We must get this sorted out!

 

[Spudhut]

The space above the spare tire has room for a small compressor. This an a stock OEM compressor for the ARC system, I installed that into my 99 truck. The last picture below shows a stock 98 compressor setting in place on my 99 chassis, before I cleaned it and rebuilt the fragile mounts for it. There's a few inches of space up there.

View attachment 158759

@CDW6212R - does this pump work well to be used as an air source? What years is this installed?

 

[gmanpaint]

410, the OD light won't come on, meaning, it won't shut off.

Yes, all the issues are a direct result of the engine and obd2 swap.

I have yet to pull the cam sensor and check, but will before I data log and send to the tuner.

I am taking my time on this as I already know it will eat up my focus and time, once I start. Work and the trailer build, have been taking everything out of me of late. I am getting to the point now, that I can turn my attention to this rig.

Those that know me, know I get lost into any project at hand, and once I'm into it, I'm into it with the determination of a soldier on a mission. My life has just been too crazy to dive into this lately, but it's almost time to dive in.

 

[gmanpaint]

Ugh

 

[WormsExplorer]

Slight Problem there sir.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, someone used it for turd tank plug or something. It's in the trash, and a new one on the way.

Hoping that and a new coil helps with this rotten bastage 1309 code, that was passed on to me to deal with.

 

[gmanpaint]

New cmp sensor and new coil pack. Codes cleared. Test ride completed. Upon 3rd re-start, the 1309 code returned.

Flag is still god on the cam synch, and it doesn't make any noise. All I can think of to look or replace next, is the crank sensor. I'm too poor to be throwing good $$ at good parts, and hoping the tuner can help diagnose.

Just a shout out to the shop, who sent me this ticking time bomb. Thanks , !!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

how about pinched wires? can you see any or find any?

 

[gmanpaint]

Haven't yet, but most of the wires tuck under stuff, and can't be seen that close to tell. removing the harness and opening it up, is probably the only way to tell.

I have to stand on a 5 gal bucket just to work on this thing. For a long term tear down, the front bumper and front wheels would have to come off to be able to reach everything. Lol

 

[boominXplorer]

Did you line the cam sync up with the way the old one was? It might of been a tooth off to begin with. Its got to still be off to get the code, I've never seen a Ford crank sensor go bad without some kind of damage.

The wiring to it should be fine since it's the only code your getting.

 

[gmanpaint]

Did you line the cam sync up with the way the old one was? It might of been a tooth off to begin with. Its got to still be off to get the code, I've never seen a Ford crank sensor go bad without some kind of damage.

The wiring to it should be fine since it's the only code your getting.

Never removed it. Just replaced the sensor for it. It looked fine from the top. Do you think I should pull it and reset it? I thought if it was a tooth off, it would run terrible, and the engine seems to run fine as is. Well, I can feel a slight miss at idle, almost like a cam lope, but it runs smooth when on the gas.

The crank sensor wire tip is greatly appreciated! Scratch that off the list. Thanks!

 

[boominXplorer]

I'd bet your alignment is off. I'd buy the alignment tool and pull it out and reinstall it.

 

[gmanpaint]

Before this engine was dropped in, it was re-sealed. Top and front was stripped, and new gaskets installed.

Would the cam synch have to come out for that?

 

[boominXplorer]

There's a O-ring on it at the top to seal the crankcase. Judging by the job you got they probably took it out to put the engine in, not to re-seal it. When I put a Ford ohv engine together I try to install the cam sync before the timing cover to make it easier to line up. Going by the balancer marks can be tricky.