The Black Hole

[Brian1]

Table came out great, that will be nice to have!

Have a brand new Trash-a-roo bag for the spare tire. Will have to remove the tire cover when using it tho, which is fine as it will only be used on trips.

Why? I use my Trasharoo over my tire cover with no problems for 1000's of miles. Some other tire trash bags dont work with covers but the Trasharoo does well with them.

 

[gmanpaint]

Table came out great, that will be nice to have!



Why? I use my Trasharoo over my tire cover with no problems for 1000's of miles. Some other tire trash bags dont work with covers but the Trasharoo does well with them.

Thanks! I know it's not conventional, and orientated like everybody else's, but to me it's better than nothing.

I tried the trasharoo with the cover on. The straps are not long enough to fit around the 35"x12.5" tire. The lower straps will have to go thru the wheel to secure it.

Edit:

Yeah, I'm a dumbass sometimes. I tried the Trasharoo bag again, and realized that the straps have plenty of adjustment on them to fit the 35's. I actually watched a video of someone installing it, and face palmed myself as soon as they showed how the straps work. there is a tight sleeve on them, and I thought they was already as long as they could go. LOL, dumbass...

 

[gmanpaint]

Going to attempt to install this Ford power steering pump today. Have never done this job on the 5.0L yet, so it will be a learning experience for me.

The Pump that was installed last fall on the road trip, was a cheap unit from O'rielly's, as it was the only we could find in the state in the short time we had. After it was installed, and the wheel was turned, it just clicked away and there was no assist from it, unless the RPM's was raised and the rig was in motion.

The debacle that followed, resulted in a new Rack n pinion, cooler, and lines. All that helped, but it is still only at about 50% assist, (Even after the TRE's was adjusted properly). After replacing everything on the system, and it is still not working correctly, my theory is that the impeller's on that pump, got damaged from the line blockage back pressure, from debris found in the cooler. I was told they are not that strong, and are designed to fail in that scenario. When that happens, the RPM's on the pump needs to be raised, for the now smaller impeller blades to offer any circulation. This is the tell tale sign, that the pump needs replaced. I need to test that statement out.

I borrowed a pulley tool, but only the remover will work. I need to Jerry rig a pulley installer with a bolt, nut, & washer. Hopefully I can figure the thread on the inside of the new pump for that today. If not, I will get a loaner tool from the parts stores.

 

[CDW6212R]

If that is the 96-01 Explorer PS pump, the pulley bolts on, no puller is used. I replaced the PS pump in my prior 98 due to some extra noise, and the pulley seemed to have a lot of play. I don't think the old pump was really hurt, but for my work vehicle I replaced it.

The only part to be concerned about is the high pressure line connection, the Teflon seal. That is damaged badly when installed, so taking the line off means deciding how to replace that seal. I used Teflon tape and it worked well. The seals were really hard to find or buy 15 years ago, I think they are easier to get now. But you'd need to know the size. I just gave the Teflon tape a shot, I put the part of the old seal back on that was in one piece, and taped over it, folded the tape on itself and built up a little thickness(a few times around).

BTW, what brand of pump did you get this time, and how much was it? The Ford part was about $150 when I bought one for my 99 SOHC in 2006, the 4.0 and 5.0 PS pumps cost about the same.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yep. I learned in about 30 seconds that no puller is needed. Lol

Pumps already out. Hardest part was fighting the rubber hose. Ended up having to cut it. Have to run to the parts store for another now.

It's a Ford pump from online. Was $110. Dealer said they just stopped making them, gave me the part number and I did a search. It came with a new teflon seal. Also came with a rubber O ring. No idea where that goes tho. When I replaced the rack a few months ago, I did have to go get new teflon seals from the dealer. I lost one in plain sight. Bird must have flown off with it, or the devil's hand grabbed it.

The only physical difference in both pumps that I can see, is the rubber hose elbow is a tad different with the bend.

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent, that difference in the pumps has made me wonder for years. I have two used pumps now, the 77k one from my old SOHC, and the 200k one of my 98 302. I'm glad the seal came with it, they have become more common as included parts lately.

I used to have spare seals(I had bought three in 2006 when I needed one). I kept them in a socket in my main toolbox, in a rarely used size like a 3/8" drive 11/16" socket. I used a deep well 10mm to enlarge them gently(on the step) before installing them.

 

[gmanpaint]

A socket pushing the seal over a big punch enlarges them easy enough, prior to install.

I had to go to 4 parts stores to find the 7" of 3/4" hose. Last one was my last hope for a Sunday, and one I avoid, but I lucked out. Only took 1.5 hours round trip, for $3.00 worth. AutoZone sells by the foot. Now to put this sucker back together & see if it will chooch or not.

Edit:

All buckled back together with a hope & a prayer. Good & bad...

Good: Steering fluids are pumping crazy good in the resevoir now, like a strong visible stream can be seen. After it was bled (both tires off the ground ), the wheels move effortlessly when done. The test ride also confirmed it has improved majorly. Like night & day difference. Yay Diddley doo!!

The bad: The low pressure line elbow on the new pump is an issue for the rubber line clamp. There was barely any room to squeeze the line onto it, and to get it pushed back far enough for a clamp, was a fight! so.. yeah.... There was no way to get the squeeze clamp where it needed to be as it just hits the pump housing. I was able to get a worm clamp on it, but it rides at the very end of the rubber line. Me no likey that. It doesn't leak, and it is low pressure, so hopefully it holds when the Merc V is up to temp.

New on the left, 7 month old reman on the right.

Because it is a press fitting tube, I didn't want to pry on it, to make room for the hose & clamp. Last thing I wanted was to ruin it, and be back to sq one, and out the $$ for it. I will keep an eye on it for a while.

 

[gmanpaint]

Finally figured out the aftermarket Aluminum radiator's trans tank fitting's.

Inverted 3/8" tube fitting PN 821660, seems to fit perfectly. Tank bungs have a seat on them, and these fittings sit nicely.

I can now plumb the trans to the radiator, and see if it makes a difference or not. some say bypassing the rad helps, some say the rad helps keep the trans the same temps as the engine. If the latter is correct, and this engine stays around or below 200*, this will help greatly when towing.

Local auto parts only had one in stock (which we used to figure this out), and ordered another for me. I grabbed some new hose to use on these, and will work on it this weekend.

I Really hope this helps overall temps, while towing long distances. Thinking of trying the Water Wetter additive as well. Can't see what it would hurt, besides my wallet! lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, and the Water Weter does help. I began using it instead of another low cost additive for lubricating the WP seals. So it's about $10 instead of what I used to buy for about $5 or so for each of my cars. That radiator trans fitting may be the same that other AL units come with. Thanks for that detail, it will help others to have a place to start. I'll want an AL model for my trucks soon, the V6 version and the V6 bracket for the condenser.

 

[gmanpaint]

Before I remove the existing trans cooling hoses, I need to figure out plumbing direction....

Fords tech site says to plumb the trans cooler before the Radiator.
Forum searches give mixed reviews of before & after the Radiator.
Trans cooler manufacturers suggest after the Radiator, but can place before the Rad, on certain applications.

I'm messing with plumbing the trans to the Rad for towing reasons. When not towing, temps are fine not plumbed to the Rad.

Will the fluids cool better going from trans to rad, then to trans cooler (w/fan), then to trans?
Or.. Will the fluids cool better going from trans to cooler, then to rad, then to trans?

Thoughts?

From what was found online for the 4r70w and 5.0L rad in/out's...
Trans outlet= Lower Bung
Trans inlet = Upper Bung
Rad inlet = Lower Bung
Rad outlet = Upper Bung

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd test the trans lines before guessing the inlet and outlet, just pull a cooler line off and with it in a pan, start the engine briefly.

The radiator will heat the ATF to coolant temps, I would always want the external coolers downstream from that. The external cooler will always reduce the ATF temps, you don't want to heat them up if they got below coolant temperature. That's why it would be a good idea to run cooler thermostat and/or fan settings. If I could get the engine to 165 or so degrees, then I might leave the radiator ATF cooler in use. That low of temp, would not hurt anything, it'd make the A/F ratio a hair denser, which is slightly more power, and that could mean using slightly more fuel. Both would be not measurably any different. PCM closed loop begins way before 160 degrees.

Try to get the ATF cooler in front and blocking as little of the AC condenser as possible. That's why I liked that long cooler that Traveler used, it can go near the very bottom.

 

[gmanpaint]

Don, I understand that completely. The rad tank helps warm the trans fluids, which helps the trans heat up faster in colder climates. I am not worried about that in the least bit. This rig is only used in spring/summer/fall. I have an inline filter installed, and it is directional. Easy to figure out the flow direction.

This is just for discussions sake:

I'm going for the opposite, because of towing. I want the engine coolant in the rad, to reduce those temps. My ultimate goal is to have the trans and engine run at the same temps. Somewhere around 195* would be perfect. Doable? That is the question, and the reason for trying this.

When towing, the trans temps are hotter than the engine temps, with the rad bypassed as is. Engine at 195* & Trans hitting 200-210* in 3rd gear, OD off. OD on is when it climbs to 230* at speed. Ack...

So my brain says to me that if the 210* trans fluids hits the 195* rad tank, it's going to either heat the coolant to 210*, or the engine coolant will reduce it to 195*.

I don't want to heat the coolant higher with the hotter trans fluids. If the trans fluids gets cooled by the aux cooler/fan first, then enters the rad tank to match the engine temps, before returning to the trans, that would be great.... "IF" it works that way. According to Ford's routing, this is the way they say it should be. Is this the reasoning as to why? I Dunno.

If the rad can drop the trans fluid to match the coolant temps, w/o heating it up, then the aux cooler drop's it a few more degrees, then great.

I'm just thinking this out before I plumb it, in hopes not to have to do it twice, meaning time and new hose.

I can't use the longer F-250/350 coolers on this rig. The front skid is in the way for that. I have the aux cooler in front of the condenser, with a pusher fan on it. If I could fit a thicker cooler I would step up to a better one, but can't. Only have 3/4" thickness room, and the bigger plate coolers I have found are 1.25" thick, or more.

 

[CDW6212R]

The cooling system is much better than the ATF coolers. Rely on the coolant to get ATF temps close to the thermostat rating. The ATF is not going to heat the coolant in any measurable amount. So run the ATF to the radiator first, let the coolant bring the ATF to the coolant temps, and then use the external cooler to bring the ATF temp down as much as possible below that.

Doing it the other way will have the ATF no cooler than the radiator for sure, higher but not lower than.

I'll be going for colder than that, not for towing but for power under boost. I don't have the bumper restrictions, so I'm limited by cooler size and space, the inter cooler heat exchanger being at the front of all others. I still have not gotten to an adapter for oil coolers to modify. It's made to redirect flow to a cooler when the temps get above 180(for oil), but I want to change that to a marine thermostat(145). That would be great for ATF cooler control, skip the radiator and using a big front cooler. I wish those companies would make that thermostat adapter for trans coolers(lower temps than 180*). You and I and most people would want them.

 

[traveler]

I agree with Don. I'd run the radiator then the cooler, for the reasons he listed. The radiator is made to cool, so its unlikely the trans fluid would raise the coolant temps much if any. So the radiator would drop the trans fluid to coolant temps, then the trans cooler would lower them further. You know I don't even use the radiator to cool the transmission, and you saw the temps I run at. If I were to go back to using the radiator and a cooler (and I'm considering it) I'd run radiator then cooler.

 

[gmanpaint]

Not towing, it's fine with the rad bypassed. People normally bypass the rad because of the trans overheating the engine.

I am going to run it to the rad, then trans cooler as discussed, even tho Ford says the other way around. We will see what happens after the test run next week.

 

[CDW6212R]

Did you already have a 180* Tstat in it? The radiator will be at a lower temperature than that rating, it's the heat sink(or cold source in this case) which cools the engine hot coolant, down to the T'stat rating. So it's a two part system, the radiator is relatively cold fluid, and the engine is heating its fluid. I think a colder T'stat has a little better chance to maintain good temps in the radiator.

 

[gmanpaint]

I believe the engine installer used a 185*, but I need to dig into the notes to confirm that. LOL

Changing the boiling points with a t-stat change, can help in some situations, but once it's up to running temps, I don't think it really matters much. Most of my trips with this rig are long run times. Not much on/off/rest/restart really.

 

[CDW6212R]

I've seen linear changes of my temps with different thermostats, and with stuck open one I had wildly low temps, 134 in Winter with a blocking cardboard(or else it was just over 100), and in the 160s in Summer.

The radiators in the 95-01's is very efficient given the very large area it has. Yours won't have that full ability, but it should still cool well enough to closely match the thermostat it has in it. A 180* unit should have the temps run below 190 for a quality T'stat. I'm not sure how much of your radiator is covered by the bumper and skid plate, I should say it's all a guess.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, skid blocks the lower half of the rad. It protects everything in that area around the cross member.

Its definitely a 185* stat.

Got the trans plumbed to the rad today. Used those brass fittings for it, but will be swapping them out for AN 45* fittings.

No leaks. Engine installer had the trans filter on the wrong line. Needs to be after the tanks, on the return line, right before going to the trans. I need to get a new one, and get that in too.

 

[gmanpaint]

Life happened, and got in the way of completing everything I wanted to get done, for the big cross country 2 week trip on this rig. I was more concerned with the performance, upkeep, maintainence, on this thing, after last falls debacle. I do not want to get trapped in that God awful Kansas triangle again. Yes, I have to go thru that same area again, and am dreading it with a passion. Almost willing to take a longer route just to avoid the entire state!! But time isn't on my side, and can't.

The 8.8 Truss, Corbeau seat brackets, and Engine upgrades, all fell onto the back burner. This means the Off road trailer, will be staying at home for this trip. Massive heartbreak for me. Really wanted to use it, and let others see it for the first time. I just can't do the low hwy speeds (3rd gear/3k rip-ums) for thousands of miles in a short time, to keep the transmission and engine cool across the country, as it will add way too much time that just isn't there. Depressed is an understatement.

So this means the added cargo storage box & roof rack will come in very handy. BH will be loaded up with minimal camp gear, spare parts, tools, and personal items. The fridge will come in handy once again, and not having to deal with a cumbersome cooler & ice. Really loving that thing. Base camp will be made, and most everything will be removed, except parts & tools for the trails. It will be a spectacle to see, while on the road for sure. LOL

Many pictures of this trip, will be shared here and in a trip thread for the forum. That thread will show you why we do, what we do, to these rigs. I hope you check it out and comment, when it happens.

Peace all!