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Torque Monster Headers Install Write-up and Review

They’re here,

Couldn't agree more. Bob can be on the slow side for sure, but he always does come through. I needed some new gaskets recently, and although they took a while to arrive, he sent what I needed and more, on his dime.

The key is patience when dealing with TMH. I doubt it highly that this is his bread and butter considered the niche nature of this product. Fact remains, they are a superb mod and well worth the wait.

Sorry to hear it's taken so long. I ordered mine well in advance of actually needing them for this very reason.

They’re here,

Well, just a quick update, My TMH arrived Friday afternoon. Very nice, I won’t go on, but I tend to agree with everyone’s opinion on quality.

I finished up this morning, along with the headers I installed my small stash of upgrades. Mac CAI, 1” spacer, EE swaybars, etc.

I found the install very straight forward, but a very tight fit. I wonder how many people gave up on the right rear motor mount nut. I almost did.

V8BoatBuilders thread is right on the mark.

Thankfully, being an early 97, I had no egr tube to deal with.

Wish the delivery was quicker, but well worth the wait. Bob called me back to confirm delivery, and is a very nice guy with a great product.
 



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That's because you don't loosen the right mount bolts from the top. Leave them alone. Instead, you loosen the one mount nut from under the vehicle with a wobble and extension. It takes a total of 2 minutes to loosen and tighten. I have mentioned this to Bob...I don't know why in the world he doesn't change his directions and save everyone the aggravation. Others here have tried my method and agree it is so much easier. Next time you know.
 






That's because you don't loosen the right mount bolts from the top. Leave them alone. Instead, you loosen the one mount nut from under the vehicle with a wobble and extension. It takes a total of 2 minutes to loosen and tighten. I have mentioned this to Bob...I don't know why in the world he doesn't change his directions and save everyone the aggravation. Others here have tried my method and agree it is so much easier. Next time you know.

I tried that at first, but couldn't get enough clearance.
 






You do have to use a wobbly and extension. And it has to be a wobbly with a socket as part of it...it can't be the universal you stick a socket on. Not enough room for that. But I've done it with two of them now and it's slick as can be.
 






You do have to use a wobbly and extension. And it has to be a wobbly with a socket as part of it...it can't be the universal you stick a socket on. Not enough room for that. But I've done it with two of them now and it's slick as can be.

30 yrs of working on Fords, over 20k in snap on tools, still wouldn't work. There are variables on every vehicle. It may work for others, but not this time.
 






Hope this helps,

I looked at the directions for about a min and said screw it I ll do it myself. I am a mechanic and felt confident in my skills to do a good job. I started at about 11 in the am and finished at 6 in the pm. Instead of jacking the motor up, I just loosened two little nuts that hold the HVAC plenum to the firewall. I then removed the heat shield from the box and the header slipped right in starting at the radiator with the collector and going right in. I tightened the two nuts and reinstalled the heat shield in less than ten minutes. No PITA jacking the motor up thats BS. I also removed the EGR tube from the intake and left it in place on the exhaust manifold. came out no problems. The only PITA was the dipstick, it just did not want to come out. it took me 15 minutes dickin around with it for it to finally come loose. but all is well and it runs like a beast.
Regards, Jeff Snyder
 






Another good idea for installing the right side. I did one with the a/c plenum out of the car and that was a snap. But still, the easiest I've seen is snake an extension and wobbly through the frame to the motor mount bolt and loosen it there from underneath. I don't know why 87longproof had an issue...the bolt access is designed into the vehicle as you have to remove that bolt to remove the motor mount. I have never seen one that couldn't be done that way. You have to go through the frame access though.
 






any one had fitment problems with the passenger header hiting shock tower???
 






I most certainly did. (do) Plus the driver's side hit the cab and the steering shaft. Bob replaced the driver's side with another tube and it fit perfectly. The passenger side required a dimple to fit, so I left it and called it good. No harm no foul.

First, make darn good and sure your mounts are all good. Make sure the engine is where it's supposed to be. If everything checks out, call Bob. Since this isn't the first one, he might have a problem with a jig slipping or something like that. He may know what is going on too.
 






i talked to bob and he told me to loosen both motor mounts and move the motor over to the drivers side it should move 1/4 ". As for the drivers side, bob made me a one peice header specially for the body lift, that way it could clear the steering. It turned out perfectly. First set. I got a send him some pics of the fitment
 






i talked to bob and he told me to loosen both motor mounts and move the motor over to the drivers side it should move 1/4 ". As for the drivers side, bob made me a one peice header specially for the body lift, that way it could clear the steering. It turned out perfectly. First set. I got a send him some pics of the fitment

Try loosening the motor mount plate to block bolts--from underneath.

On the passenger side they are double nutted studs, the first nut holds the battery cable in place. You need to remove this to get to the stud bolt.
Be careful not to remove the bolts completely. You just need to loosen them a bit

If I remember correctly the holes in the plate are "slotted" and may just allow you to bias the engine over to the driver side a bit.
 












piss on the motor mounts

Im tellin you guys, I had an easy time loosening the HVAC plenum, two nuts, no big deal. I did not want/have to dick with the M/M's and I think it was less headache. I say that cause i didn't have to mess with the M/M's so i didnt experience that PITA. It just seems like a PITA, but whatever tickles your pickle:thumbsup:
 






tightening header bolts

whats the best way to tighten the header bolts that you cant get a socket on? i used a small wrench. but i dont feel its tight enough. there is so little room that you can bairly get a wrench in there let alone really get them tight.
any help full ideas to get the bolts tight??

mine are leaking. i am thinking its because of those hard to reach bolts
 






whats the best way to tighten the header bolts that you cant get a socket on? i used a small wrench. but i dont feel its tight enough. there is so little room that you can bairly get a wrench in there let alone really get them tight.
any help full ideas to get the bolts tight??

mine are leaking. i am thinking its because of those hard to reach bolts

There were 2 or 3 that we tightened from the top but the upper intake and valve covers were off so it made it possible. It isn't possible with them on.
 






u think i will need to change my intake gaskets if i take it off?
 












There were 2 or 3 that we tightened from the top but the upper intake and valve covers were off so it made it possible. It isn't possible with them on.
So you have to take the upper manifold etc off to tighten those bolts? God I've never seen a vehicle that is so hard to install headers correctly on lol.
 






So you have to take the upper manifold etc off to tighten those bolts? God I've never seen a vehicle that is so hard to install headers correctly on lol.

You can tighten the header bolts with everything in place. There are some bolts the are a bit tricky to get to, but it can be done. It helps to have several versions of a 3/8" wrench. The extra length of a gear wrench comes in handy, but you will use the open end on the tricky bolt(s).

You have to get a slight turn on the bolt, flip the wrench for more angle, turn again, flip wrench and repeat. You will be placing the wrench between the tube and the head to do this, where the tube goes along the valve cover area. You then tug the wrench with your fingertips.


There are maybe 2 total bolts which are this tedious, the others are all straight forward.
 



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project

well i finally got around to starting my project

96 4.0 ohv 4x4 which is receiving a powertrain/drivetrain transplant from a 1998 5.0 AWD.

Just placed an order for the torque monster headers today! EXCITED to see them! ($724 shipped)

Although who knows how long it will take to even be able to install them, we shall see how long this project will take. As long as it is done b4 it snows ill be good 2 go.

Ill update this thread with any issues i have or tips.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, very helpful.
 






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