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"TURDLE" or " How to mess up a perfectly good truck"

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Well, it is about time I do this
This is our 1998 Mountaineer.
We acquired it in late 2000, with 29 k on the odometer. Previously it prowled the Oklahoma turnpike as an unmarked police cruiser.

I would say it was about June-2001, when the initial madness set in, and I became obsessed with changing the looks.
I found Explorer Express, Where I scored the x-spec suspension.
After talking with John V., I learned of the Apten group buy here, and the rest is as they say, history.
In June of 2002, I acquired an exhaust leak. Being the expert I thought I was, I bought a header gasket set, went to fix it.
Well, in my thinking I didn't have the front bolt tight enough, I snapped it off into the head---ooops.
After pouting about this for awhile, I decided to really get into this site for answers.
The result--



347 cubic inch, stroked and bored engine


FMS sportsman block-bored .030 over and machined for stroke
Billet crankshaft with chev rod journals
H-beam ultra light rods
Probe PRS forged pistons -9cc dish ( slightly over 10:1 compression)
Melling stock volume oil pump
Edelbrock performer efi heads 2.02 intake, 1.60 ex valve 58cc chambers
Crane's roller lifters--billet aluminum lifter guides
Crane's roller rockers
comp cams pushrods
Cloyes true billet double timing set.
FMS X-303 camshaft, advanced 4 degrees
Professional products Typhoon intake and EGR elbow, with 1" phenolic spacer
FMS 42 lb injectors
Aeromotive fuel rails, boost reference regulator ( currently set to 43 psi.)
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump--return style 3402
Lightning MAF
Torquemonster headers--stock exhaust with rear cats removed--magnaflow dula in single out-Hooker Aerochamber stacked right behind, 3" mandrel bent MAC tailpipe.
Art Carr 3000 RPM flash lockup converter ( 10 " billet housing)
Art Carr built valvebody kit
Amsoil fluids in all otherwise stock components. ( since I change my oil early and often, I use the least expensive synthetic oil. Usually Amsoil, but sometimes I will use Mobil 1)

AWD IS OUT!! 4406 4X4 IS IN!
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166726

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185203&highlight=turdle

UPDATE
As of 2-17-08
I mentioned the truck being a poilice cruiser in it's first life-
well, this caused a little "glitch"
While the PCM says it is a NRT1 box code, somewhere along the line a police code was flashed into the PCM.
My original paperwork shows a dealer service call for a PCM reflash right before the title was signed over. I am assuming the police tune was recovered, and a stock tune re loaded.
However,
they didn't mention they loaded it with a MC2O box code.
After 2 trials with the initial run tune, I actually read the box code with the XCAL2 and James deteremined This error.

Once this was figured out-the tuning was ON!!!

Baseline tuning is complete and all is well. I'm waiting on a new Innovate LM-1 wideband for WOT tuning.
Somehow mine took a dump,
I spent a whole day trying to figure it out. If it had been operating though it would have been a breeze.

James ( jah81592) is about the best help a guy could ask for in this area.

www.hensonperformance.com

UPDATE 2
Tuning complete-after a few WOT pulls to 6000 rpm's
James has not only achieved a great tune in my truck, but totally eliminated the surging issues I was experiencing.

UPDATE 3

Truck now lifted for trip to Colorado Gold mine trails--page8

Update 4
colorado trip completed-Imogene pass and Black bear pass have been driven in this truck
woo hoo!!
picture of black bear pass-

update 5
On Sept 19, 2008 Went to KCIR and ran a 14.8 @ 90mph---2.002 60 ft time
I was snoozing and did everything wrong. It has more in it.

Update 6

After drooling over Mountaineergreen's extensive suspension mod list for years-

With a feeling of guilt, for not doing the actual work myself, I have acquired his

4" superlift suspension lift,
410 gears
aussie locker in rear
disconnect front diff--- http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188359
double cardan front drive shaft ---http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185232

285-75-16" cooper discovery sst (33") tires

UPDATE 7

Exhaust Dumps installed 4-15-2009
These allow the exhaust to be opened right after the cats.









new pics as of 3-16 2009

HPIM4066.jpg


HPIM4067.jpg


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attachment.php



update 8

Added another stock trans cooler beside original, installed hard lines and twin 10" cooling fans

fansbumper.jpg


They seemed to work just fine

DSCF2694.jpg


Update 9

Sliders installed!!!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245321&highlight=sliders


stupidbracket.jpg


I used Smoked chrome powder coat on front and rear bumpers, sliders, and wheels make for a factory look match
Bumper pictures are before slider install-

bumperdonenoflash.jpg


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Next up--Get rid of torsion bar drop brackets, and, the bars themselves.

I also have some mild white neon tube rock lights, some very bright 55w rock lights, and, 6 rock llight of death tubes ( to be shown later)

stay tuned!!

turdleflex.jpg
 



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Good to know that heat shield is necessary. Too bad we found this out at your expense Jon.

I would patch it up and then make an aluminum heat shield. Rivet it to the box, but put some space between the box and heat shield if possible, just to allow some air to get between there. It will help reduce temps of the box. If the aluminum is nice and shiny it will help reflect some of that heat.

You can get some heat shield products made by DEI at Summit Racing. They have all sorts of heat protective materials. Some are self adhesive so you can stick the stuff to whatever.
 



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Just take a hammer to the header.... "clearance it" LOL
 






Man, you guys if I could get in between the header and hvac cover panel I would patch it, however, I do have a new --rather -used one which will bolt right in place.
Once I gain enough access why not just put the new one with heat shield on there?

I do appreciate the suggestions though. Anything to help is appreciated, and, now that I finally have that headers sealed I really hate to break it. Maybe once I am really in there I will see a short cut.

I think I could fit 2 -10" pushers in front of the ac condenser very easily. I noticed my plastic fan has cracked, so now I would like to switch back to the metal one as I do think they actually flow more air. The hunt is on.
 






OK, here is what I am up against. Getting a good patch, with room for the heat shield and a space in between will be very difficult.

metedhvacbox.jpg


However, I have this

newhvaccover.jpg


So, Dang. Looks like I have some wrenching to do.
 






can you put some heat wrap on the headers?
 






Yikes Jonny! If I know you, you'll figure something out, creatively speaking. Good luck bro.
 












Hmmm, I am tempted, however it will mean no further warranty support.

That's rediculous. I've seen so many wrapped headers and the only place they had issues was where it wasn't wrapped... Even then, it was just rust which would have happend on all of the header had they not been wrapped..
 


















That looks tough, and Mark has a good idea to help. I'd put the new AC box in and shift it to the right if it will go at all. Make another aluminum sheet barrier to attach to those OEM studs. Also, if possible, run some piping from the front to that area, get a high pressure area at the radiator to push air through pipe to the spot.

If you can get any real air flow through the space between the AC and header, the heat will not be too much.

Let me know how much space you end up with, to help with building headers. I just found out Canfield heads are no longer available.
 






Well , My friend Mark came by and with his help we have upper intake, coil packs and fuel pressure regulator pulled, and new HVAC cover installed.

The cover needed quite a bit of persuasion and manipulation to get around the evaporator while squeezing between the header, but I was able to leave the header installed. :thumbsup:

Now to wipe it down a bit and throw it all together. The powdercoating really could be redone as I did this with a bad batch of clear I have fought. Should I take time to re powder coat my upper intake and tube?

hmmm
 






Well , My friend Mark came by and with his help we have upper intake, coil packs and fuel pressure regulator pulled, and new HVAC cover installed.

The cover needed quite a bit of persuasion and manipulation to get around the evaporator while squeezing between the header, but I was able to leave the header installed. :thumbsup:

Now to wipe it down a bit and throw it all together. The powdercoating really could be redone as I did this with a bad batch of clear I have fought. Should I take time to re powder coat my upper intake and tube?

hmmm

Waytogo dudes. I knew you'd sort it out. Go for the powdercoat. Just hit the porch while the baking is taking place and it will done in no time. :cool:

Brad
 






Well good, how much space do you have there now?
 






Waytogo dudes. I knew you'd sort it out. Go for the powdercoat. Just hit the porch while the baking is taking place and it will done in no time. :cool:

Brad

To do so means a whole bunch of dis assembly, I have decided to put if off for a while.

Well good, how much space do you have there now?

Don, it looks like a strong inch now. I would think with the shield that is plenty.
 






Good, I was worried that it was more like 1/2" and would melt it again.
 






So this means you are going to Colorado, right????? :D:D:D:D
 






then--to make it worse, it would seem the only way the truck will get enough airflow at slow speeds to cool properly with the ac running, I will need a nice electric puller. I have a Mark 8 fan, and Techieman33's single core radiator at my disposal. The radiator might still need moved forward a but though.

Any ideas out there for me?

Make sure that the clutch on the fan is in good order, and do your two tranny cooler fans block some air flow to your radiator? Like a few have said if they are not running they may restrict some? Anyways good job on the cover with out removing the header!
 






Im glad it went better than I was thinking it was going to go.


Way to go Jon
 



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Well
I was hoping the plastic fan blade to be more efficient, however it is 2" narrower than the fan shroud opening. I also noticed the fan blade itself is cracking after being in the truck for about a year. Maybe I have spun it a bit too fast???


I cannot find my old metal one. :( Kinda bummed about that right now.

I know for a fact the metal fan was 19" --this plastic version from a 96 v8 explorer is only 18" diameter-the shroud opening is 20"
I feel this is allowing air to recirculate around the outer edge of the fan without a good draw thru the radiator.

I am going to try to find a suitable fan at the junk yard.

-electric-belt driven-??

I am not sure. I do know this one is not going back in there
 






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