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Torque Monster Headers Install Write-up and Review




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Arguhhh....mine just started to leak last week, but at least it appears to be the drivers side.

For now I will just turn up the radio ;)

and yup it is a ticking sound, more apparent when accelerating.
 






So is there anybody close to me in South FL that could help lol. Or would I have to drive up to one of you :D . Still thinking of grabbing the TM headers, my truck is my beater but I always get bored and want to play with something, plus the factory manifolds are making their famous ticking.
 






Im interested in doing this but idk if im up to the challenge. What would be a fair price for installation?
 












Ok Thanks! :thumbsup:
 






Yeah, these things are not necessarily hard to install, but the tight spaces make it really difficult and patience is required. Getting that motor mount tightened back down was a pain for me. It was a lot easier on the newer set of headers I got from Bob though. The pipes might have moved a little. It was a day long ordeal for me working at a reasonable pace, but I had plenty of breaks in between, haha.
 






Humm........... I dont have that kind of room at all between my firewall and collector, I wonder if they changed something on the firewall between 98 and 01?

All,

There was a change in engine position, not necessarily the firewall. When we were developing Torque Monster Headers, we used a '98 model for design and fitment. The first set we sold to someone with a '99-'01, the back tube on the driver side touched the firewall.

Back in the day when Ford was dealing with the vehicle flipping, (i.e. Firestone tires) they also made some slight changes to shift weight rearward. On the '99-'01 models, Ford shifted the engine/trans back a little over 1/2". Hence, the reason you later guys don't have as much room to remove the exhaust bolt from hell. Ford doesn't tell you this, but that was our findings in dealing with the later models.

The other side of the coin is, by moving the rear tube forward to fit the later models better, that same tube comes closer to the early models running the GT40 heads with the spark plugs pointing upward, but it is acceptable.

All the Best,

Bob Pasquale
Tech Performance & Engineering
Torque Monster Headers
 


















Currently working on my installation of the TMH's. Came back to read this write up again and couldn't figure out why everbody was having so much trouble with the passenger side collector, mine was a breeze with a long extension. Of course the earlier post kinda cleared that up. Now the motor mount rear nut is another story what a PITA. I ended up unbolting the two down tubes just behind the secondary cats so that I could shift them rearward then I could shift the header up and back to gain access to the nut. Short strokes with an open end wrench flipped over every move finally got it tight. Decided it was beer thirty and quit for the night. The headers are very well made and packaged complete with everthing. Bob was very helpful over the phone also. I am also doing the 1in. phenolic spacer at the same time so my power increase should be even better. Will post results from seat of the pants dyno once install is complete.
 


















Just a quick note on the inboard collector bolt on the right side. I have a 1/2 inch extension about 4 feet long. (I don't like getting my hands dirty pulling tranny's :) ) I was able to just barely snake it into place. Once there, I could easily remove that bolt. The outboard bolt wasn't so lucky. Using a 15mm 1/2 inch drive impact wobble socket, I couldn't budge it no matter how hard I grunted. I used penetrating oil, heat, you name it. Nada. I finally took my grinder and wheel and sawed that #$@# off. Trying to remove one stubborn bolt the correct way: 30 minutes. Getting smart and cutting it off with grinder: 60 seconds. Smile on my face when sawed off bolt hit the pavement: priceless....
 






sorry to bring back a semidead-but not forgotten threat but i have a few ?s

1. will it be easier to install with a 3'' body lift?

2. what is the real price? on here it says 589 but when i go to the website and try paypal it says 689..

3. should i use pb blaster every day on the bolts until i install to make them easy?
 






1. i think it'll be a lot easier since you already have a lift..

2. yeah, forum members gets a discount.. $621 delivered and i think you have to email bob about your current set-up/mods (i.e. intake spacer?) and wait for him to get back with you..

3. not sure 'bout the pb thing..

>>>> hey patrick, if you get to install one can i come over so you could help me install mine? :D
 






1. i think it'll be a lot easier since you already have a lift..

2. yeah, forum members gets a discount.. $621 delivered and i think you have to email bob about your current set-up/mods (i.e. intake spacer?) and wait for him to get back with you..

3. not sure 'bout the pb thing..

>>>> hey patrick, if you get to install one can i come over so you could help me install mine? :D

haha im gonna be shootin in the dark on this one as well as you would be :D
 






Figured I would through in my $.02...
I am at the end of day three on the install. Both headers are in place but not tightened up. Day 2 and most of 3 were spent chasing one bolt that sheared off in the head. With the age of my Mounty (10 years now) I was happy 15 out of 16 came right out. The exhaust bolts were insane. 3 ended up being torched out. I am doing a 1" intake spacer at the same time so day 1 was mostly taking the intake out. I also did a new 200 amp alt from mr. alternator. That is already in. I think I might go back down to the garage floor to tighten everything up and call it a night. Then start on intake assembly tomorrow. I am hoping that taking the entire upper intake out will make EGR install go smoothly. I have a nice custom EGR tube made by TM. I have to say the TMs are absolutely top quality. They really feel like how much they cost when you hold them in your hands and really look at the work that goes into making them. I cannot wait to get the truck running but I am taking my time with this since I am on vacation for a couple months (just got back from 5 months at sea ((merchant marine, not navy)) ). One thing I am confused about it why there are 8 long bolts and 8 short bolts. All the blind holes in the head seem to be the same depth... Anyone know? I think I have a day in putting everything back together then 1 more to do a 10" sub box from Thunderform and a rear view camera for the new indash DVD radio thing.
 






The shorter bolts are used where the tube bends over the bolt hole. A shorter bolt will go in easier. Use the long ones on the ends, this makes 4, now use the other 4 where you can go straight in. Use the remaining bolts where it is too tight to get the longer ones in. Understand?
 



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Yes, Thats what I went with. Seemed a little too simple for a Ford...

Thanks bud.
 






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