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Explorer Code P0016

When I was manually actuating the VCT solenoid, I caused the low oil pressure indicator to come on as well. I am leaning to its a bad phaser over a plugged pickup tube screen.
 



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Today, I went down to my local Harbor Freight and picked up a oil pressure test kit. $30 and 20% coupon applied.

I'm getting a low oil pressure indicator at low RPM.

With the oil pressure gauge installed, I'm getting 80psi on a cold engine at ~1000rpm and 45psi on a warm engine at ~600rpm.

According to Ford I need the following: Minimum 30 psi @ 1,500 rpm with engine at normal operating temperature

Since I get that, I am going to replace the oil pressure switch in the next couple hours and see what happens.
 






I replaced the oil pressure switch and I no longer get the low oil pressure dash indicator.

I still get the P0016 DTC and I believe it is a bad bank 1 intake phaser.

It is a big job, but I'm now going to replace both intake phasers.
 






I removed the front cover and am amazed at how well the Bg 109 worked. Here is a picture.

Next weekend, I will replace the phasers and put it back together.

IMG-4526

IMG_4526.jpg
 






Well, I finally got the phasers removed from the cams. I likely found the issue causing the P0016, but I don't know what caused this. The intake phaser guide hole is wallowed out causing the timing issue. The primary chain also skipped 3 notches on all sprockets. I purchased 2 new intake phasers and I will buy a new timing chain in case it got stretched out.

Any idea's what could have caused this beside primary timing belt skipping teeth?

InkedIMG_4564_LI.jpg
 












It cleaned the sludge from the front cover. Visual comparison when I had the front cover off prior.
 






I replaced the 2 intake phasers and realigned the timing chain. Explorer is fixed.

I still don't know what caused the issue. A bad VCT intake solenoid or jumped chain. What caused what?
 






Thank you for reporting back.

Peter
 






Did you drop the engine or access the timing chain from above?
 






From above and below. I didn't drop the engine.
 


















Any seals or orings replaced while you were in there? New water pump?
 






So I have a 2014 Explorer sport that has been giving me some trouble.
I washed my engine bay after a couple hours of letting it cool down because I was going to change the plugs and the oil.
I changed the air filter, the plugs and boots, and the oil. Everything seemed fine and then we did the start up and we got the code P0016:00-E8 (Crankshaft Position- Camshaft Position Correlation- Bank1 Sensor A
I ordered a new positive terminal because the corrosion was eating away at the metal surround the post.
So we turned the code off and I drove the car for a week and it is running great with no sounds. The code came back on temporarily yesterday when I was going to pick up the new positive. When I got back in the car the check engine light disappeared again. So I guess my question is where should I start trying to figure out what needs to be fixed?
 






Any seals or orings replaced while you were in there? New water pump?

Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I went in there initially to replace the water pump. I put in new timing components while I had it opened up.
 






This thread has a lot of good info in it:

Seems like a lot of folks with that code are having to replace the timing chain :(
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
There are several threads on that code in addition to the one Rick mentioned..
Good luck and please keep us updated.

Peter
 






Here’s an update:
changed out the bank 1 sensor about a week ago and no codes came back yet. The vehicle is still running normal so still waiting to see what happens.
 



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Hello everyone so I just purchased a 2014 Ford Explorer Sport with the ecoboost that has about 70,000 miles and a P0016 code just popped up, I tried replacing the cam sensor closest to the firewall and also did oil change using motorcraft oil filter and mobil 1 synthetic oil, cleared the code and it comes right back on at idle or any other driving condition very quickly like within 10 minutes. Does anyone have any luck fixing this problem? Would changing the vvt solenoid valve work or is this for sure going to be a problem with the stretched timing chain?
 






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