Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

[Dannyboy]

Most of the time I sandwhich the steel with two sets of steel clamps and whack one half of the clamp with a hammer after heating. But on that one, I just welded the center to the top and bottom plates, and then a few blows with a hammer (the steel was hot enough after welding). Then a set of clamps were used to close the gap between the ends of the plate and the other surface its going to be welded to. Yeah its crude and I feel like I belong in the stone age using that method but it worked for that I really need to build a brake but I'm a little tight on room. The bent plates are 3/16" thick so its not as difficult as 1/4" (the tabs where the link bolts to).

I think you are the person that needs to tell me if this article belongs on snopes. This guy claims you can bend pipe without a bender. You believe it?

http://www.metalgeek.com/archives/2005/05/01/000047.php

I also saw on 4x4TV the other day that they bend 1.75" tubing by heating it up and wrapping it around an old rotor. That sparked some interest for me because I am determined to learn how to weld/bend. They say not to heat up tubework for suspension/cage components because they get weakened but it is alright for tire carriers and roof racks etc. Just what I'm planning on building next, tire carriers and roof racks.

 

[IZwack]

Wowzers. I have never bent tubing by hand (other than brake line tubing ). But I guess with enough leverage, anything can be man handled. But that would be really cool and impressive to see a cage bent by hand

I did not see that 4x4TV episode but I think the problem with heating is that:

1) you must heat a pretty large area or else if its just a concetrated area, then that section will draw out and become really thin. Or you could heat a small section and have the heat "travel" with bend as the tube is man handled.

2) you're changing the steel through its phases and you might end up with brittle steel (especially if you quench it like with water). Obviously brittle is no good for safety but also its difficult to machine (in case you need to like drill a hole through it or even run a tube notcher through that section).

On my cage (when I get around to it *sigh*), I am going to use as little and as few bends as possible. I'm borrowing this principle from the racing chassis domain (baja, NASCAR, old F1, etc...). Example:

(The bottom half of a Blitzkrieg Motorsports chassis).

 

[410Fortune]

triangles are your best friend, triangle is the strongest shape because all three sides support each other.

Bends are for the A, B, and C pillars, everything else = triangles and no dead tubes

I'm still saving for a bender

 

[IZwack]

Made a compas for the plasma:

And traced some arcs from the drilled 3/8" plate:

Finished one end of the adapter:

Das is all for now, gotta go to the airport.

 

[Fusion213]

We're not worthy!
That's some absolutely amazing work you're doing. Plasma is definately next on my list of stuff to get.

 

[IZwack]

Thanks!

This is the plate on the doubler, of course it actually goes on the other transfer case but the pattern is exactly the same.

 

[IZwack]

Cut the other side of the adapter:

(added two small holes below the main shaft so any fluid that makes it into the adapter from splashing drains back into the doubler)

And this is what the stack of plates and a cylinder is going to look like:

 

[FireZapper]

You planning on flat belly?

 

[IZwack]

You planning on flat belly?

Yup! I'm going to clock the doubler's adapter about 15 degrees so that the transfer case up above the bottom of the frame rails.

 

[IZwack]

Tack welded and mocked:

For anyone building one, "clocking" doesnt really help because the bottom near the center of the transfer case remains the same distance even during clocking. So looks like I'm going to level out the drivetrain (from the stock X number of degrees) and as a last resort, move the whole thing up if the doubler and the transfer case still does not clear the bottom of the chassis.

 

[spotter guy]

OMG I'm on line again....Hey Iz do you know the final reduction of your doubler? Also why the doubler and not a Klune-V or atlas, I assume the reduction is more I just don't know much about doublers and your's looks cool and is coming out so nice. Thanks for the help........

 

[IZwack]

OMG you ARE online again!

The reduction of the doubler is the same as the BW1354 transfer case -- which is 2.48:1. So with doubler sitting in front of the transfer case, the final reduction at the driveshafts is 2.48*2.48 = 6.15.

As for the crawl ratio, the 5R55E transmission has a 2.47:1 1st gear so 2.47*6.15*5.13 = 78:1 <-- not too bad but I was hoping for something over a hundred. Oh the 5.13 is in the ring/pinion.

I went with the doubler and not a Klune or an Atlas cauz I'm poor . Plus my original plan was to use my backup BW-1354 as a doubler but as it turns out, you have to go with the BW-1350. But fortunately Blee1099 had a manual BW-1350 in storage.

EDIT -- well upon more reading, I guess 78:1 isnt too bad: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166107

 

[Yomie]

I went with the doubler and not a Klune or an Atlas cauz I'm poor .

:scratch:

 

[410Fortune]

seriously if you build the doubler yourself it would be cheap... but a doubler is not exactly cheap for most!

 

[spotter guy]

(OMG) again!!! Thanks for the info. If I remember right the doublers started with toyo trucks because they could not get any more reduction and now has spread across the industry. Maybe not but that's what I thought......

 

[IZwack]

I was working on mounting the engine today and I realized that the stock water pump is not pointing the way I'd like it to. This is a long shot in the dark, but does anyone know of a pump that will bolt up to the SOHC block but have the output pointing towards the passenger's side?

I was thinking maybe I could just block the stock output, drilling another large hole and welding a new output on. But the pump is aluminum and I dont have the capability to weld aluminum (and I want to do this myself, not pay some1 else to weld it).

Or is there a more simple universal water pump (maybe from the racing world?) that maybe I can make a bracket/adapter to bolt it up to the SOHC? If all else fails I guess I could go with an electric pump and just move the pump somewhere else (not in front of the block) but I'd rather go mechanical (mostly for reliability).

 

[94 Crawler]

just get some exhaust tubing bent at whatever angle you want. You may have to reroute some stuff but that dosent seem to be a big problem. Then get some hose from the parts store the right i.d. and cut to fit. When i used to run derby I used whatever I had to make it work so it can be done. You can make it look good I have faith. Just get whoever bende the pipe to put a slight flare in it so the hose has something to grip and not slip off. Run it under or to the front of the crank you should have plenty of clearence.

 

[Turdle]

You might PM James
jah81592

I'm sure he could answer this question.

 

[IZwack]

Thanks JT -- I PMed him.

94 Crawler -- thanks, I was thinking of that and will probably end up going somewhere along those lines if I cant find another viable solution by the end of tomorrow.

 

[Justin Klare]

this thing is going to be sick when it's done.