Blueka's "Pickle" Registry....

[blueka]

Thanks Dave, and thanks Bob!


Si

 

[blueka]

so... mini update...

NO MORE LEAKS!!!

Got some new transmission fluid lines from Ford... $200.. but it stopped the leaks and stopped the crappy issues with fouling of pipes on stuff... so I'm happy...

Radiator hose has been replaced, so no more leaky rad...

Speaking of rads.. had to replace the dual core with a single core as the fan wouldn't fit in the space... and I can't get the fan on now anyway.. so I don't know what I'm going to do..

Hopefully getting the muffler done next week, when I've got access to a trailer and a truck...

Still have a high idle, replaced the ICV, no difference... and I still have no oil pressure on the gauge, but I'm working on that...


Si

 

[2000StreetRod]

2 row radiator

. . . Speaking of rads.. had to replace the dual core with a single core as the fan wouldn't fit in the space... and I can't get the fan on now anyway.. so I don't know what I'm going to do . . . Si

I'm disappointed to hear that your two row radiator won't fit. I replaced my leaking one row radiator with a new two row and was hoping to be able to use it. I wonder if a different fan blade, fan clutch or water pump would solve the problem.

 

[sport97]

I wonder if a different fan blade, fan clutch or water pump would solve the problem.

Maybe an electric fan swap?

 

[blueka]

oh, forgot to say that the issue is caused by the bodylift brackets on the radiator... if you don't have a bodylift, you should be able to get away with a 2 core radiator... and I've probably got something wrong with the thread on the water pump or fan clutch


Si

 

[specialized7]

looks good buddy!

 

[blueka]

Thanks! Can't believe yours is up for sale again... wanna sell me your tail light guards??


Si

 

[blueka]

Well, I've spent the last week, with the help of NICE59FORDF100 and Turdle, working through wiring issues to do with the oil pressure sender switch and the gauge on the dash.
The circuits on the V8 OHV and the V6 SOHC for the sender are different, and when plugged together don't meet up, so, as a result, the gauge on the dash doesn't work resulting in the lovely "Check Gage" light in red... which would cause a failed safety.

Well, we worked out that by grounding the circuit on the SOHC loom, I'm able to trick the gauge in the dash and get the light off. However, I will eventually get round to making it work properly...

So, today, I trailered Pickle about 40mins south to the muffler shop, even with the cost of the fuel, it was still cheaper to get my muffler done there....

The guy used the old rear muffler from the 4dr V8, removed the sections of pipe between the muffler and the cats and then welded them together, he also added a rear hanger and a tailpipe tip, only cost C$110... so I'm happy, and now she's nice and quiet too....

So.... all that's left now, is to sort out the high idle... and it's safety time... so hopefully next week, she can go for her first safety!! I'm so excited!!


Si

 

[blueka]

I forgot that I hadn't put the front airbags in... so I put them in tonight.. now I've got a flashing airbag light.. code 36 :fire:

As far as I've read, it's to do with the driver's seat... I've cleaned out the plug on it, but still got the light..

So, here's some interior shots...

Before I broke Rolly for parts, the airbag light didn't flash...

So, I'm wondering if it's because I used the 99 sport airbag computer with the 2000 airbag wiring harness and left off the side impact sensors, just the blank plugs that were on the sides already....


Si

 

[DirtyDog]

I would say that's why your getting the code. You do need to use the air bag module from the 2000

 

[blueka]

Well, my reason for using the 99 airbag module, is that it was a sport airbag module... and also, my sport never had the side impact sensors and there is no threaded holes like on the 4dr body to mount them, so I left them off.


Si

 

[BobWiersema]

Stupid Codes

Code 36 on a 2000 is drivers side air bag. I have no Idea why you had no errors prior to installing the front bags.

This may help. A link I saved from a few years back.

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/0uu15-code-36-2000-ford-explorer-air-bag.html

Cut and past to give you an idea.
Written by Joseph Carrillo

The code is for the driver side, side air bag. If it has a side airbag which
is in the upper seat back. On the outboard side of the seat cover it will say
airbag. The wiring comes from under the carpet and is attached to the seat.
What happens is the wiring flexes causing poor continuity. All vehicles have
the wiring whether they have side airbags or not. If they don't have side
airbags the connector plugs into a fixed resistor.What I do on these if they don't
have a side airbag is repair wiring at connector. the wires usually break If it
has side airbags I replace the harness as stated in the Ford special service
message I posted below.


I checked before I posted this and the link is good.
Hope it helps because those stupid body control modules drive me fricking nuts.

Bob

 

[ncranchero]

Yeah, it's the drivers side air bag code. According to schematics the RCM wiring is identical. Bob, I just loaded him up with info and will be happy to send it to you also if you want it.

 

[blueka]

Well, to be honest, I had flashing lights when I had no airbags in, but I knew the lights would flash because there was no front bags, so I didn't pay any attention to what the light was doing, thinking that once the bags were replaced everything would be fine...

I'll read through the PDFs tonight and have a go at sorting it out, I've probably got some time before I need to have it perfect anyway.

Thanks guys

Si

 

[blueka]

Another problem has arisen.... I have a rattle... I originally thought it was the top pulley, but I swapped it out and the problem is persisting..

That's a little video so get the idea... any suggestions?


Si

 

[Turdle]

There was an issue with the gauge, and it wasn't just the gauge. You cannot "assume" you have oil pressure.
Oil pump

 

[blueka]

I'll take that plug out this evening... engine out job for the oil pump?


Si

 

[Turdle]

I'll take that plug out this evening... engine out job for the oil pump?


Si

It is possible to do it in the truck, but you may wish you didn't. Because of the weird supports needed I cannot recommend it.

Leaving the engine in, will give you a 2 1/2" -3" gap between the oil pan and block to do all the work, You will need to remove and re install the pickup tube from the pump while it is in the oil pan. All through this 3" gap. And it will take a helper with great patience. You will need to dis assemble the front suspension.

Oh wait, My lowering brackets were in the way. Since you do not have these it might be easier--however, you will need to support the engine from above somehow, and, rely fully on this support. If it fails you will surely loose a hand.

Seriously.

Here is a thread where I changed the oil pan in the ol Turdle wagon. Since the pickup tube hangs so low, i could not slide the pan in around it, resulting in assembly and fitting of the pump pickup tube in the pan.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242451&highlight=purple+oil+pan

Without the lift brackets though, you might be able to just swa the assembly and get the pan up there

you also have to remove fittings from the steering rack and get it outta the way I think.

 

[blueka]

I put a stethoscope on the engine covers, the A/C compressor and the PAS pump, the noise was loudest on the PAS pump.... so possibly that's the problem?

Si

 

[vroomzoomboom]

There was an issue with the gauge, and it wasn't just the gauge. You cannot "assume" you have oil pressure.
Oil pump

that just gave me even more reason to put a high volume pump in when i do my swap....truck has oil pressure, but who knows if it might cough it out a week later.