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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Excellent thread! I'm seriously considering doing this to my 98 Eddie Bauer 5.0. I'll keep watching this thread until I make the plunge.
 



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If you're already using 2 inch piping for the turbo to intake (at least until you get to 3 inches) then why not run the intake tube on the other side of the vehicle. You can go across the top radiator hose, make a curve around the engine and down at an angle from there to the bottom of the vehicle. Avoid the passenger side mess all together.
 






That pump is one of the best. I'm pretty sure they tapped that hole BEFORE the pump was put together. I'm curious as to where the shaving came from. Were you able to pick that pc of metal out?
 












Jakee, it was very easy to pull the pump gears and clean up the thread bits that were left behind with a dremmel. I just feel better having those shavings cleaned out of there.

Routing the intake piping on the otherwise of the truck doesn't look any easier to me.
I'm going to attempt to "shorten" my wiper fluid/overflow tanks so they dont stick out so far In to the engine bay. I'm interested to see how this turns out, and if it will be leak free. This is where the intake pipe will come up, and it looks like there will be easily enough room, as 2" pipe is really tiny. Once in the engine bay ill transition to 2 1/2" for bov, then 3" to the throttle body.

The mount for the intercooler will be a bit of a challenge under the truck. Tim has already volunteered to help get a bracket sorted out. Thanks Tim!
 






How about "retrofitting" smaller overflow and wiper fluid tanks from another vehicle? I had to do this with the Turdle. They should be easy to grab from a junk yard.
 






I checked with James on what he used on his turbo sohc, and he used some from a Lincoln. I was at the yard last week and couldn't find anything that might even come close to fitting. There's a lot of really weirdly shaped reservoirs out there. I'd never have guessed that. So, in the end I pulled the reservoirs out of a dead gen 2, in hopes of modifying.
I could try other yards. Lincolns are not common around here at all. James was guessing a mark8, but couldn't be sure.
 






You could always build you're own tanks using PVC pipe arranged vertically and placed elsewhere.
 






Try and use as many of the ribbed ends as you can. I have one joint meeting at the 2" to 2.5" transition where I did not use the ribbed ends because of the way I was forced to cut the pipe. Guess where the ends blow off? Yea, right there..LOL
 






And....Most of my piping showing up has no beads. #$^#$$!!
I can see this could very well be an issue. Im not in a hurry to be popping intercooler pipes all over the place.

so, looking on line, they are really expensive.
here's an option:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/324132-homemade-intercooler-pipe-bead-tool.html

I was kind of hoping to find one on ebay someone was done with.

Here's an Epoxy method. I think it will be what I use:
Clean up the end of the pipe, no oil or paint at all. Rough it up a little with at least 80 grit sand paper, rougher (36 grit) is OK too. Mask off a stripe of exposed pipe. Run a bead of thick epoxy around the pipe. While the epoxy is still a little wet, pull off the tape. This will leave a bead of epoxy around the pipe end that will help keep the hose from blowing off.
 






Very clever tool. I don't see what that wouldn't work. Seems like a good idea to me if you have a welder or have access to someone who can weld the tool for you.
 






And....Most of my piping showing up has no beads. #$^#$$!!
I can see this could very well be an issue. Im not in a hurry to be popping intercooler pipes all over the place.

so, looking on line, they are really expensive.
here's an option:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/324132-homemade-intercooler-pipe-bead-tool.html

I was kind of hoping to find one on ebay someone was done with.

Here's an Epoxy method. I think it will be what I use:
Clean up the end of the pipe, no oil or paint at all. Rough it up a little with at least 80 grit sand paper, rougher (36 grit) is OK too. Mask off a stripe of exposed pipe. Run a bead of thick epoxy around the pipe. While the epoxy is still a little wet, pull off the tape. This will leave a bead of epoxy around the pipe end that will help keep the hose from blowing off.
Saw that vise grip one over on rps the other day.I don't know if I trust the epoxy way with all the heat and vibration
 


















parts are slowly coming in, and Im slowly doing stuff.

Im getting my live wire sorted out for my pumps and boost gauge.

Not sure who's been intimate with the fuel pump live wire, but where does it run?

Ive been looking for it at the drivers kick panel.

Its a Dark Green w Yellow trace wire (I think) and I would have thought it would run down the drivers kick panel and along the drivers side of the truck.
Its missing in action.

What I'd like to do is run the relay off this wire and then out for the pumps (intercooler and oil scavenge). There is lots of room at the kick panel for the relay and it would be protected very well.

Anyone know where, and what color that wire is inside the cab of the truck?
 






don, i have a ford shop cd for 97-00. if you want to burn it, i can bring it by on sat or sunday (i want to go for a drive anyway). that and i still have the chopped elbow, and jig here
 






Thanks Tim, I'll take you up on that.
Timings tough this weekend though.

Were bartending both nights, and there's our something football game on Saturday at 1:00. Sunday afternoon maybe? I'm not great with mornings after bartending the night before. Must be this age thing.

I was just thinking.....If the pump emergency shut off is on the passenger side,what am I doing looking on the drivers side?
 






fuel pump live wire routing

Here's the path (DG/YE wire) on my 2000 which should be similar:
fuel pump relay in battery junction box >
Splice S127 >
C147 > C203 > inertia fuel shutoff > C212 > C141 > C311 > fuel pump assy
C115 > C202 > PCM (monitors fuel pump relay output)

If you want your pumps to stop running when the inertia fuel shutoff is activated then you need to tap in past it. If you don't care then you can tap in before it. The wire is accessible in the bundle at the battery junction box.
BJB1n2.jpg

Otherwise you'll have to find it at C203 that connects to the inertia fuel shutoff (passenger side kick panel) or C212 (under and behind the instrument panel on driver side).

I plan to tap in at the battery junction box like I did for my remote crank capability.
 






IMG_20130710_212147_133.jpg
IMG_20130710_212223_115.jpg
Not sure if this helps but I saved these pics of a saleen setup for future reference
 



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Thanks Guys!

Dale, I looked at that junction box, and couldn't see how to get at that DarkGreen/Yellow wire.
Is there space to see that wire if I unbolt the box and lift it up?
 






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