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My new 347

Ok, attempt #2 .
I didn't get a picture of where I ran the rtv, but I can assure you its on the correct side of the galley plug this time.

Before running my bead of rtv, I sprayed all sealing surfaces with brake cleaner and wiped excess with clean rag. Then I ran a bead on front and black of the block, leaving a bunch extra at the ends. Then I ran a thinner bead on the lower intake mating surface and ran my finger along it to make it even and smooth. Also, making sure I had good adhesion. I then dropped the lower on the block as fast as possible using guides so it would drop straight down.

Once in place I torqued to 5lbs. Enough rtv squeezed out the back that I was able to just run my finger along the back to smooth it out. I waited about a half hour and torqued to 15lbs. Then I made a run for work.

When I get home tonight, I'll torque to 25lbs, wait...re-torque...repeat. Tomorrow night I'll start the truck.

Sorry for the long in depth on a simple lower intake install, but this has proved to be painful for me. If I have a leak now, I know it won't be from the lower intake.
 

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Good catch John, that oil galley plug is up under the intake.

The RTV looked about right the last time, the amount, bead size. You want it just tall enough that the intake pulls down into it, with a little bulge out on both sides. I usually smooth out any bigger bulge, and giving it that caulk smoothed surface is a good thing. Just don't push a lot through inward if it's a lot bulging out.

Here's a view of the back of my 347 from my past intention to get an oil source at the back, for a turbo and a sensor to control an external oil pump. I didn't like the tightness of the fitting going through the block there, I couldn't make it as tight as I wanted. I still haven't decided if that is good enough, and the line used to connect the two. It's a good idea, I just haven't worked it out yet.
 

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shoot me now.

I have a bad feeling that the head will be coming off again.
I'm really hoping its the lower intake again, but I doubt it.

Is there an oil return from the head that goes in to the block? I thought the head oil returns returned oil to the lifter valley.

What is going on here? A crack in the head or block that I am not seeing?

Next step............oil dye and light.
 

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The head gasket does not seem to cover all of the head to block mating surface.
I have a very bad feeling about this.
 






Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand works.
 

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This is the part when bad things happen to good things. Like body panels and glass.

Time to step away from it for a while. Go on vacation / weekend retreat, build a tree house, etc...

When your break is over, have a fresh pair of eyes with you when going after it again. Sometimes a different perspective helps, as your stuck on a certain train of thought.
 






Is it just on the drivers side ?
 


















That sucks, I've always used the blue fel pro head gaskets but I always sprayed them with copper .
 






How can a gasket that is shaped incorrectly even be sold? I can see gaskets being used in the wrong application blowing out, but really? ugh.

I just called Mr. Gasket (Who was purchased by Holly 4 months ago). Im told they have no reported incidents of this, but only have 4 months history. Also, I doubt people having issues with them would even call and say anything. Fix it and move on.....again.
 












No , the cheap ones that you get at the parts store and permatex copper spray , I'll look in the garage and see if I have a set for the part number
 






I don't have any on my gasket shelf right now , but I know they make the basic style gaskets for a 347 because my friend is running the same motor setup as you but with a vortec in his mustang and he's using the cheap ones with copper spray , the standard size for a 302 I use are fel pro 8548pt2
 






These should work:
Ford Racing Performance Cylinder Head Gaskets M-6051-A302 I think they are very similar to what you are describing. Finding Permatex 80697 Copper Spray-A-Gasket seems to be a challenge here. Its going to take some calling around.

compressed thickness is .042 compared to .038 of what I'm using. so, for a difference of .04 thickness do I change both head gaskets? I'm thinking not.
 






I'd be too paranoid about the other side, and yea the copper spray is getting hard to find these days
 






The other thing I'd look at is the locating dowel under that head, I've had one jam me up before and I've also seen the hole in the head not be quite right ,but most of the time its the dowel or grit under the dowel, just something you can pull the head and check before you decide on gaskets
 









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The pictures make it look like the block has a small area which is not allowing the cylinder head to seat down all the way.

:dunno:

I thought that or the valve cover gaskets.

I hope you find it soon. Check to be sure the heads are all dry above where you see the oil at the seam, if it was the VC there would be some wetness on the side of the head.
 






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