1997 Ford Explorer - V8 - 5.0 - AWD

Hello Explorer Fans.

I have been on the forums for some time and have extensively read many threads. I have enjoyed the forums so far. Now I have a question of opinion for you all.

I currently own 97' V6 SOHC Sport and I love it. I was going to SAS it, but Id rather do it to a V8 Explorer, plus, manual TC's are readily available for the swap.

To get to the point, I'm looking at a 97' 5.0 AWD Explorer (166,000 miles) (for a few hundred bucks). It's a solid vehicle, straight but its flashing a few codes. I looked up the codes here on the forums and it appears to be a "simple" fix. It idles well, but has an obvious 'lumpiness' to it. When you accelerate under load, you can sort of hear and feel it. The codes I got were P1132 - Lack of Oxygen Sensor indicates Rich and P1131 - Lack of Heater Oxygen Sensor indicates Lean. Both appear to be O2 sensor issues which may not be that big a deal. The trans seems to shift well with no obvious issues.

I'm very mechanical in nature (I work on my own cars/trucks) and fabrication of all I want to do...is what I do.

I just wanted a few opinions on the success of fixing this issue and any potential things I should look for before i pull the trigger and pick this thing up.

Thanks everyone.

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool, he's a monster.

 

[Spudhut]

All alone - with 33's - It does have a rake back look right now. I can adjust the spring perch up and down to level it if needed. I'm very happy with the final results...looking forward to driving this thing. I may get @Turdle to powder coat a few items just to dress it up even more

 

[Spudhut]

Anyone add a sway bar to the front after SOA? I have the front sway bar from a Jeep Cherokee - It will fit w/ custom mounts made from the frame and Ill make quick disconnects for fast removal when going offroad. Any thoughts and feedback?

What are you using?

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't you love that bigass radiator? Some guys wish they could fit such a huge area unit in their vehicles. Try to route as much air flowing to it as you can(avoid a skid plate that blocks the hole bottom half).

You'll be making skids plates and bumper pieces, get those powder coated, and maybe make a few splash guards to lessen what gets to the floor pan etc. I'd clean the bottom side really well though, and then coat it really well to seal the seams etc. Here's the bottom of my 99, I rust treatment coated it and ended with 3M rubberized under coating. I'll do almost the same thing with my 98, it saves the body for decades.

 

[Spudhut]

Don't you love that bigass radiator? Some guys wish they could fit such a huge area unit in their vehicles. Try to route as much air flowing to it as you can(avoid a skid plate that blocks the hole bottom half).

You'll be making skids plates and bumper pieces, get those powder coated, and maybe make a few splash guards to lessen what gets to the floor pan etc. I'd clean the bottom side really well though, and then coat it really well to seal the seams etc. Here's the bottom of my 99, I rust treatment coated it and ended with 3M rubberized under coating. I'll do almost the same thing with my 98, it saves the body for decades.

View attachment 161728

That looks great. Do you have a lift in your shop? I would love to have access to one or have one of my own. Nothing like added touches like that, that set our vehicles apart from the rest.

 

[WormsExplorer]

Looks great. Can't wait to see her on some flexing and trail runs.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah, I budgeted a lift when I started my 99 project. The body was cut in half and clipped, from my old 93. So the lift was a cost that made the total in 2005 about $5500. At the time a typical 98-01 cost $7500 for a run down model here. Now you can get them for $2000 or less, times change.

 

[Spudhut]

Yeah, I budgeted a lift when I started my 99 project. The body was cut in half and clipped, from my old 93. So the lift was a cost that made the total in 2005 about $5500. At the time a typical 98-01 cost $7500 for a run down model here. Now you can get them for $2000 or less, times change.

Isn't that amazing. How just a few years pricing on cars drop so quickly. I'm still amazed how many are still on the road and available for purchase. I'm eyeing a 3rd and the Sport will go to the kids as a community car. I'd have to say, its the best and funnest car I have owned in a long time.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Looking good!

 

[Spudhut]

Worked on it more this weekend. I'm really trying to get this on the road by fall.

Finished welding the frame for the steering box mount and frame mounted panhard bar mount.

I started working on the brake system - trying to figure out the best solution for now. I'm thinking of creating a new front cross member under the radiator section for re-routing/re-bend a new brake line for the passenger side and a place to mount front sway bar.

Well...on with it, my weekend progress -

I'm going to rebuild my calipers, so I blew them apart to check the bores. Nice and clean. The guide pins however were in different shape. A little rust in the boots and some decent pitting - new replacements for pins and boots will be needed.

Tapped caliper mounting holes to clean them out

Drilled and tapped the frame for rubber brake line mount

Mounted rubber brake line - I checked the turning radius and it should work without binding.

The fitting on the factory line going to the passenger side had botched up threads. I had to cut the end off at the flare and replace the fitting and re-flare appropriately. Never an easy fix.

 

[Spudhut]

I routed the passenger side brake link in this fashion. I may end up changing when I add an additional crossmember in the front.

I used tabs to hold each side firmly with rubber grommets

(Passenger Side)

(drivers side) - also notice F150 steering box installed and the need for oil filter relocation kit. its a tight fit.

 

[Spudhut]

Late night boredom w/ not much time to work so I pulled the already removed exhaust off the ground to remove the 2 Post-CATs and weld in some new pipe

Cut Off -

Not too bad inside -

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool. Let us know how much you get for the old cats too.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I'm curious about the cats too since my V6 ones are chilling, might keep them though for a spare exhaust.

 

[Spudhut]

I put them up for $50 for the pair since they are used; likely original.

I have had a few hits on them - mostly people making the time to come pick them up.

 

[Spudhut]

Pulled together and got a few things done this weekend. I had a passenger mid-rear body mount with a snapped bolt and I have been putting it off to fix since putting in the body lift spacers...to be blunt...it was a PITA to get out and lots of ingenuity. Forget drilling the bolt - its hard as a coal rock turned to a diamond... I ended up using a small hole saw I picked up from Geek.com to remove the center section in order to remove the upper and lower washer plates. I replaced the center tube section with a new piece of 1" tubing and ran a new bolt down the middle with lock washer and nut on the end. Done.

I got the 'new' carpet installed and worked on getting the TC garnish covers in place so I can get the seats back in their places.

I used the factory Ford cover and seal from the F150 I pulled the TC from. Cut and modified to fit.

I pulled the rear end and painted it nice and clean. I also painted the inside and outside of the rear frame section in an industrial epoxy rust inhibitor. I redid the brake hard line and I'm in the process of rebuilding/painting the calipers. New HD u-bolts and u-bolt plates from Barnes4x4. I also relocated the rear rubber line mount to the top of the rear - welded a tab the the U-bolt plate - (Picture to follow)

I was at the Junk Yard and found this nice compact relay cluster in a Lincoln Continental - It will make a nice clean install for new lighting or other accessories that will be added later. The bracket will need modification one placement is determined. I pulled it and cut the wires off a few feet from the relay cluster. $5 find and its Ford OEM...

 

[fastpakr]

Great job on the 4406 shifter !

 

[Spudhut]

Great job on the 4406 shifter !

Thanks @fastpakr

The rubber baseplate was pretty flexible, I shaped it over the hump and screwed into place. As for the hard cover, I had to trim the top inner portion next to the center console and file it clean...unfortunately its held down with one single screw, but it sits pretty firm and will hold up since its not used often.

 

[CDW6212R]

FYI, those relay units are modular. Look at the sides of them, and you will see that they can be interlocked with other units. So with various kinds, you can put one together which is square like that one, or narrow etc. I have a narrow "4" unit version I used for extra circuits, and it hangs under the master cylinder. I put four relays and a flasher into it(modified a connector/pocket to fit the flasher). They come in many arrangements, look at the one in the left quarter panel of the 95-01's, that one is similar to what you just found.

 

[Spudhut]

@CDW6212R - Any helpful info you can provide on how to pull the modular relay assemblies apart?
I tried to pull the unit I have and after a bit, I had to set it down. Lots of 'locking' areas on each of the sides....maybe there is a trick to it.