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1997 Ford Explorer - V8 - 5.0 - AWD

Hello Explorer Fans.

I have been on the forums for some time and have extensively read many threads. I have enjoyed the forums so far. Now I have a question of opinion for you all.

I currently own 97' V6 SOHC Sport and I love it. I was going to SAS it, but Id rather do it to a V8 Explorer, plus, manual TC's are readily available for the swap.

To get to the point, I'm looking at a 97' 5.0 AWD Explorer (166,000 miles) (for a few hundred bucks). It's a solid vehicle, straight but its flashing a few codes. I looked up the codes here on the forums and it appears to be a "simple" fix. It idles well, but has an obvious 'lumpiness' to it. When you accelerate under load, you can sort of hear and feel it. The codes I got were P1132 - Lack of Oxygen Sensor indicates Rich and P1131 - Lack of Heater Oxygen Sensor indicates Lean. Both appear to be O2 sensor issues which may not be that big a deal. The trans seems to shift well with no obvious issues.

I'm very mechanical in nature (I work on my own cars/trucks) and fabrication of all I want to do...is what I do.

I just wanted a few opinions on the success of fixing this issue and any potential things I should look for before i pull the trigger and pick this thing up.

Thanks everyone.
 



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CDW6212R

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They're in a few components, you have to first remove everything but the core pieces and the center locking(red) parts. They are very hard to separate, and to put back together. It took me a long while to figure out which way to push and pull on each part, to get them to let go. Go slow and steady, don't let your hands jerk in any direction quickly. The corners and edges are all sharp enough to scrape or cut you easily.

Everything is easy in general to get apart, except the main center sections(squares). It's been since 2006 that I worked on those, so I've forgotten some things.

These below is the four relay unit I made and the four double units I put into each door. I used two relays in each door to control window motors, controlled by two different master switches. Note the smallest ones are from cutting a block that uses the small relays, in half.

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Spudhut

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Worked on the Power Steering system. I got it all together and saved quite a bit of $$$ by doing it this way.

I used the factory hose and cut the fitting off for the rack and pinion and had a AN6 (90 degree) fitting added. I sized and fit it in place and had the fitting crimped on. (90 degree AN6 Fitting - $20)

Ingenuity - FREE!

I used a conversion fitting for the steering box - $8 on Ebay (see below). Worked perfect.

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AN Conversion Fitting:
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Fitting in place on 1994 Ford F150 Steering box I installed -
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Power Steering hose 'In Place' - Return line next to it
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New Return Line connector made using old return line and fitting - Cut to fit and flared - :)
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Hoses installed: I used the stock return line and cut it so the hose formed appropriately from PS pump to PS Box. I adjusted the hold down brackets and reattached in stock location.
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CDW6212R

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Excellent, great thinking.
 






Spudhut

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Since I'm running a Dana 30 front Axle - I wanted to run bigger brakes than the stock units.

After a little research I found that I could adapt to 2003/2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Akebono Front Calipers. It changes from a single piston to a larger dual piston design. A huge difference.

I picked up this set for - $24 for calipers and brackets and $50 for knuckles at local JY.

:bounce:Does anyone know if there is a way to tie in the Jeep Grand Cherokee Axles/CV Joints and its AntiLock brake Cam w/ Ford Explorer or even Jeep sensors to Tie into our AntiLock Brake system?

Notice the knuckle on the right has the steering arm as well. I will have to change my steering setup (Ugh!) but will after I get the current setup completed and Explorer on the road.

You will need the following to make the swap:
  1. Knuckles
  2. Caliper brackets
  3. Akebono Calipers
  4. Jeep Grand Cherokee lower ball joint
  5. Run the stock Cherokee upper ball joint - but Ill replace
  6. 1/2" spacer for Hub and and calipers - this will be +$40 for the pair
    1. JKS FAB Steering Knuckle Flange Spacer
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Size difference: Akebono Grand Cherokee on Left - Stock Cherokee on Right
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Spudhut

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I also started to install my oil filter relocation kit. Since I added the 1994 Ford F150 steering box, space became an issue.

I put the oil filter in front of the radiator, inside the frame. Your looking at 5' each of 1/2 hose in length - 10' total...Geesh!

House routing is preliminary - What do you guys think or suggest? I am going to make brackets to firmly hold the hose in place like the transmission lines.

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Drilled and tapped the frame for the filter housing
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Adapter on the engine -
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WormsExplorer

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Just wondering is all. But what about mounting the Oil Filter on the other side then have the lines run along frame then in front of Radiator to the Filter. This way your lines will not be underneath anything. Just a thought.
 






Spudhut

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Got a little busy this weekend. Went to JY to pick up a 2nd trans cooler for the Explorer. I will eventually add an F250 unit in place, but for now, this should work good to get it on the road.

Busted out the Nutsert tool to make new mounting points using factory hardware
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New cooler mounted. I drilled out the rivets and flipped the bracket to the other side - perfect match to the holes. Rivet it in place. Run new hose and daisy chain it all in.
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Spudhut

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Im determined to get this thing running and rolling on its own power!!!

I had to figure out the lower radiator hose since I deleted the oil cooler/filter housing to relocate it. I wanted to use the factory hoses somehow to make it easy for future replacement (If necessary) The body lift created a pretty large gap, but I was determined. o_O

I was able to use the factory lower hose - cut about 2" off the smaller end. The upper radiator hose i cut off the 'U' bend portion....a perfect fit...like a jigsaw puzzle! I coupled it with a piece of 1.5" tubing. Ill need to find some thinner tubing that is swedged on the ends. :thumbsup:

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Clamped together....
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Spudhut

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While at the junkyard, The same V8 Mountaineer that I pulled the trans cooler from, had a nice grill and grill support....I was all over it! I love the headlight setup than the stock Explorer units. ;)

New headlights and turn signal lenses are on the way!!!!

**Note to self....change secondary latch handle :snicker:

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CDW6212R

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While at the junkyard, The same V8 Mountaineer that I pulled the trans cooler from, had a nice grill and grill support....I was all over it! I love the headlight setup than the stock Explorer units. ;)

New headlights and turn signal lenses are on the way!!!!

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Good get. You'll like those, but it does need a small wiring change. There are fewer turn signal lights I think is the issue. Several people swapped to the Mountaineer grille and lights a long time ago. Eric with a 99 Sport was the first, he figured out the lights then and posted it in his 302 swap thread. He's got an LS in one now, it shouldn't be too hard to find his threads.
 






WormsExplorer

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I really like how the Mountaineer front grill and lights look. I have been wanting to do the same thing with mine.

P.S. Looking very good sir.
 






Spudhut

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I figured others have done it, but nothing that I could see here on the forum. (The chrome grill I got isnt the best, but will do great for now till I find a new replacement.) Fitment looked way to close for it to not work.

Ill look for that thread for the wiring....should be easy enough!

Thanks Don! @CDW6212R
 






CDW6212R

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You're welcome, I have to do that with my 98 Explorer too. I bought a colored grille ages ago for my Mercury, and now my 98 will be my best truck project. The OEM NOS lights were still available on eBay when I bought my last set a year ago. Hunt those if you can.
 






johnny499

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i know its a little late but i used a lower radiator hose from a 2000 v8. which does not have the oil cooler.
looking good...
 






mic98xlt

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Good get. You'll like those, but it does need a small wiring change. There are fewer turn signal lights I think is the issue. Several people swapped to the Mountaineer grille and lights a long time ago. Eric with a 99 Sport was the first, he figured out the lights then and posted it in his 302 swap thread. He's got an LS in one now, it shouldn't be too hard to find his threads.
+

I did this mod years ago with my '98 Explorer. Just leave the two extra sockets for the front lights empty, but protected from getting any water seeping into the sockets. The Mountaineer has a different flasher (same type connector) from the Explorer and all you have to do is use the flasher from the same year Mountaineer in the place of the Explorer original flasher. No rewiring necessary.
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CDW6212R

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+

I did this mod years ago with my '98 Explorer. Just leave the two extra sockets for the front lights empty, but protected from getting any water seeping into the sockets. The Mountaineer has a different flasher (same type connector) from the Explorer and all you have to do is use the flasher from the same year Mountaineer in the place of the Explorer original flasher. No rewiring necessary. View attachment 163816 View attachment 163815

Excellent, thanks for the answer, and I don't recall seeing that hood. Well done.
 






mic98xlt

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Thanks Don for the compliment about the hood, but the real credit goes to Monmix who originated what he called the "Two Scoops" Raisin Bran mod. I really liked it so much, that I had my body guy follow the directions from him found on this forum site. It still is one of my favorites mod for my Explorer.

My hood scoop write up ( sub titled Rasin Bran )

My hood scoop write up ( sub titled Rasin Bran )

I
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rasin-bran-jpg.jpg
 






WormsExplorer

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No I will be on the look for a Monty Front Grill and Lights. Just to make it more Different. I like how your grill looks on your Ex @mic98xlt .
 






Turdle

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No I will be on the look for a Monty Front Grill and Lights. Just to make it more Different. I like how your grill looks on your Ex @mic98xlt .

You'll also need the 98-01 mountaineer header ( headlight mounting) panel FYI and it is a pita to pull in he junk yard, unless you completely molest the wiring running over and through it. It is a fiberglass part.
 



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CDW6212R

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You'll also need the 98-01 mountaineer header ( headlight mounting) panel FYI and it is a pita to pull in he junk yard, unless you completely molest the wiring running over and through it. It is a fiberglass part.

I bought a new one for about $50 last year, that was easier. I hope it's as good as OEM, it's some "who" name brand thing.
 






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