1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

I don't know why Ford put a cam synchronizer on these. They have the crank trigger. Had a cam synchro physically break its magnetic sensor two times on the same engine and it made not a bit of difference in how it ran. No idea how the thing broke. I just changed the top part of the unit. There's something else wrong with the engine since then. Been sitting for a while because I really don't want to screw around with the 302 + AWD converted Sport Trac anymore.

I took the valve covers off because it always had that tick sound 302's make when they're preparing to drop a valve, but the valves are all fine, and tops of the heads super clean. I'd replaced the timing gears and chain, ordered a plain one but got sent a double row roller set. Could be that failed.
 



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I don't know why Ford put a cam synchronizer on these. They have the crank trigger. Had a cam synchro physically break its magnetic sensor two times on the same engine and it made not a bit of difference in how it ran. No idea how the thing broke. I just changed the top part of the unit. There's something else wrong with the engine since then. Been sitting for a while because I really don't want to screw around with the 302 + AWD converted Sport Trac anymore.

I took the valve covers off because it always had that tick sound 302's make when they're preparing to drop a valve, but the valves are all fine, and tops of the heads super clean. I'd replaced the timing gears and chain, ordered a plain one but got sent a double row roller set. Could be that failed.
How long has it been since your sport trac has seen the road?
 


















Good job on the chicken coup build ! ...you need to build another but it will be designated: Spare parts storage shed.
 






Good job on the chicken coup build ! ...you need to build another but it will be designated: Spare parts storage shed.
Thanks!

I moved most of my spare parts from our old barn to a newer shed, but that one's getting crowded with tools, bikes, camping gear, etc. Someday I'll build a real shop (can't come soon enough) and I'd like to have a mezzanine for storing parts up and out of the way.
 






I'm placing another RockAuto order for misc items including 4.2 clutch kit (now that @410Fortune confirmed they work and possibly better than 5.0 clutches). One item I'm considering is a door ajar switch.

The door ajar light is always on in the Mounty which isn't itself annoying, but having a door ajar keeps the dome lights on at night and the automatic parking lights and puddle lights on after exiting the vehicle unless you turn the dimmer off -- and that is annoying.

I suspected the liftgate switch was to blame because the latch has other issues, but I tried jumping the two terminals on the switch connector and the light stayed on. I tried the same with the liftgate glass switch connector too. Can anyone confirm those switches are designed to close the circuit (rather than open it) when the door/liftgate/glass is latched? If so, then the faulty switch must be in one of the doors.
 






If your keys are in the ignition and you open a door the bell will chime. Open the doors, lift gate, and glass. One of them won’t trigger the chime, that’s where your issue is.
 






If your keys are in the ignition and you open a door the bell will chime. Open the doors, lift gate, and glass. One of them won’t trigger the chime, that’s where your issue is.
You sir are a genius. Left rear passenger door is the culprit. You'd think after riding in/driving these rigs since 1997, the chime feature would have crossed my mind haha...as soon as I read your reply I knew exactly what you meant, but it hadn't occurred to me before.

Last question before placing the order; do y'all 5.0 guys reuse the stock intake manifold bolts, or should I pick up an ARP set?
 






I re use the stock intake bolts except for the upper I always install a 1” spacer to keep the heat soak from reaching the upper plenum and it increases the length of the runners for a bit more torque

ARP bolts and studs are never a bad idea
 






Sounds good! The ARP kit looks like it's just bolts for the lowers, so I'll keep the $30 for now.
 






I was right about to pull the trigger on my RockAuto order when a thought occurred to me...

I was going to buy the 4.2 V6 clutch kit and flywheel when I remembered reading in a swap thread long ago that the later 5.0s have a 50oz imbalance and that means it needs corresponding imbalance harmonic balancer and flywheel. I did some research and learned the 4.2 is internally balanced...uh oh.

4.2 Flywheel:
1691092284555.png


5.0 Flywheel: Note counterweight section in casting between 3 o clock and 5 o clock
1691092433630.png


Note to self (and others), be sure you buy a 5.0 flywheel even if you decide to run the bigger 4.2 clutch!!!

This also means I'll need a 5.0 manual starter and they are manual-specific.
 












Does this engine have the oil cooler-2 piece lower radiator hose?
Nope, just one hose from the lower left corner directly to the water pump.

@410Fortune maybe I'm overthinking things, but you're sure the 4.2 clutch went right onto what you think is a 5.0 flywheel? And everything clutch/trans related worked fine prior to the engine issues? I know you said cam walk not crank walk was the failure mode, but your 306 carnage has me nervous enough I'm thinking about just buying the smaller 5.0 clutch.
 






Hahahahahaha your silly
My issue was with the cam install and the human who installed it
The clutch is perfect

Flywheel is from a 92-94 f150 5.0
Clutch is for a 04 f150 4.2
They both use same manual trans m5od-r2
Same slave cylinder as a stock ranger

The 4.2 and 5.0 use same flywheel bellhousing etc etc the clutches just got bigger as they develop new and better setups also the mfg always looking for more
Mpg
Just like running a sohc clutch on a ohv flywheel… similar concept here. I knew it would
Bolt up because 4.2 is same flywheel size same starter same bellhousing same trans
It works great!
My engine blew due to the camshaft install
Clutch works perfectly
Do it!! You will be happy
 






Sounds good. I'll go for the 4.2 clutch and a 5.0 flywheel.

I did notice all the Ranger/Explorer/F150 M5R1 and M5R2 applications spec the same slave cylinder and I actually have a spare from when I had planned to rebuild my M5R1!

I agree the M5R2 bellhousings all seem to work with 5.0 and 4.2 flywheels and clutches (4.9 too), but have to disagree on the flywheels being the same due to the imbalance for 5.0 only. Side note: 4.9 M5R2s have same bellhousing, but slightly different bolt hole pattern -- I learned this when I grabbed a 4.9 block plate for my M5R2 from a '99 4.2 and the bottom two holes didn't line up. Easy enough to redrill the block plate though.

Maybe it'll be obvious once I have the parts, but are there features in the 5.0 flywheel that prevent you from installing it with the counterweight in the wrong position?
 






The flywheels and flex plate have a specifi bolts pattern and will only
Bolt to the crank in one position the holes are indexed
 






Big kid projects require big kid tools.
1000000863.jpg

It's been well over 10 years since I learned to weld in my high school precision machining class (stick welding), but I finally invested in my own setup. This little guy will definitely get put to work on the Mounty...I mean chicken run -- I needed it to build the chicken run! Hehehe
 






Starting to peel back some layers to get access to refresh the engine. Not too surprisingly, all the ball joint boots are torn, both front shocks are oily, and everything is dirty/rusty (except cv axles, must be replacements).

Somewhat surprisingly, nothing feels terribly loose or worn out so I'm not going to touch the suspension. Brake pads and rotors are thick, so I won't be replacing those either. As rusty as they are, I don't want to touch the bleed screws if I don't have to.

Should I be able to spin the front axles by hand on an AWD in park? I guess so since the front isn't an LSD. Just caught me off guard.
 



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Yes you can spin those suckers
The cv axles last like almost forever on these trucks the stock ones are extremely tough
I dont Blame you I likely wouldn’t touch any of that stuff either if you are not keeping this rig
run it till it falls off!!

Hobart handler mig very good choice!
 






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